reg

That's a better topic title, can discuss the subject now, but won't

Then why not use that term?

How does that relate to your topic Title?

I had the same thing happen to me a few years ago. I relocated mine slightly so that I could drill fresh holes. The main thing I did before refitting it was to drill and, importantly, countersink a 3rd hole in the center so that I had 3 fixing points, never had a problem since. Important to use a countersink and a suitable screw to prevent rope chaff.

Had a ponder on this whilst out for a walk and I agree that the word "transforming" should of been used. The transformer and its associated heat sink are essential parts of a MPPT controler. To the layman this knowledge can be used when purchasing a true MPPT controler, or more accurately avoid purchasing a fake MPPT controller. If it is flimsy and light it is unlikely to contain a decent transformer and heat sink. To quote from bimble site "An MPPT needs a large transformer coil and Capacitors inside, it is a bigger heavier unit....... " Happy to stand corrected on the use of the term. Will edit previous post

Correct I was just trying to use plain English. The main point I was trying to clarify was The readings on the LEFT of the screen are what is going into the MPPT from the solar panel. The readings in the MIDDLE are what the MPPT is outputting to the batteries. I don't think we are in any disagreement to here. The clarification was not for you but more for those that get confused by what an MPPT Controler does

If you don't mind I would just like to clarify your statement a little I think it should read It means that you are EFFECTIVELY getting 10.8a at 14.6v from solar panel..... In fact, according to the display shown, the solar panel is inputing 96.9v and 1.6a into the MPPT. The Mppt is converting that into a charging voltage of 14.6v and is giving out 10.8a This I think is a very nice example of why an MPPT controler outshines a PWM Controler in that it can take 1.6a input and multiply it, in this case, by 6.75 times to give 10.8a at 14.6v. Clever technology methinks Robbo makes this clarification below "It's not multiplying it, it's transforming it. In this case from one voltage to another"

Just installed 2 x 174w panels at £68.42 each with delivery came to approx £172. Even delivered to towpath. Couldn't be happier excellent value

What do you mean by that? I spend all my time on the boat

I have a 57ft Liverpool semi trad with a 4ft well deck. Internal length is 42ft So seems a fair starting point fir some planning To be honest if I was starting over again I would keep the 57ft but drop the well deck and have a wrap around front giving 46ft internal length, downside of this is access to gas locker is a bit more difficult. Oh and I would have proper grip rails on the roof

Lol NO teacher ever trusted a pupil to be responsible with a Bunsen burner Best game was to nick as much magnesium strip as you could, best played with a supply teacher

Thanks for that info, blink and you miss something. Is there still a requirement for a gas safe engineer to have an lpg certificate? But they were not in a sealed metal container I. E a narrowboat shell where there is no escape for the lpg. A pertinent anecdote Whilst I was fitting out my shell I had the use of an old caravan which had an equally old cooker I woke up one night to a hissing sound and the smell of lpg found that almost a complete cylinder of gas had leaked out from the cooker. On investigation found that the gas feed was help CLOSED by a spring valve (which I believe is a complete no no nowadays), the spring had failed and hence the gas was allowed to escape into the caravan. Fortunately the caravan was so old it had holes in the floor so all gas could escap IF this had happened within a narrowboat shell then there is a strong possibility that you would not be hearing this anecdote. Maybe, sometimes, H&S does make sense.

MTB " a gas cooker ring with no flame supervision which is classed as safe. "(must point out to those joining the thread part way through that you are not advocating this but are quoting it) It is my understanding that for the BSS gas cooker rings MUST have flame supervision. Am I correct in this understanding?

Many thanks for the explanations of the use of this term, was just curious as I had not come across the term before. All makes perfect sense. Thanks for the examples also. I (again for I read Corgi man) will now remove the boiler, add a straight connector and also add a bubble tester. Slightly frustrating as I have all the tools, connectors and bubble testers to hand but not the certificate to use them. However will conceded that with heavier than air lpg inside a sealed metal shell where I live it's perhaps best to follow all regulations. Will be seeking a Corgi engineer soon.

Many thanks for all of the replies. I did have a read through of the BSS Check list but did not notice the wording of BSS 7.8.5 Are all unused appliance spurs properly capped or plugged? Which appears to cover the situation. Many thanks to system 4-50 for pointing it out. Out of interest I've never come across the term 'tools-to-remove', is that trade term?

I intent to remove my old ALDE gas boiler as I never use it but this would leave a potentially 'uneccesary' joint in the pipe work where I (for I read Corgi man) will remove the T joint and make a straight connection. Will this constitute an uneccesary joint?

As always I give my vote to the Tracer BN series. I have 2x10a tracer BNs and a 20a BN. More than happy with them. However I would be seriuosly interested in the new CN series if I was purchasing an Mppt controler now. Only downside, for me, is that the require a PC connection to get full control of parameters, as I only run Linux I am not sure if they could be configured by me. The selling point for me is, apart from a decent specification, that I know Tracer make good mppt controllers and also Bimble are happy to sell them, both companies I trust. Edit To Add If anyone has purchased the new Tracer CN Controler I would be interested in you thoughts

Firstly I would take up Tony Brook's advice to look at his website here http://www.tb-training.co.uk/cover.html I used it when I wired my sail away a few years ago. A wonderful resource and freely given. Belated thanks and greenies Tony, resource much appreciated. Secondly Whilst a full 12v wiring loom may look complicated in essence, and at its very simplest, all you have to remember is that you are taking a red wire out and a black wire back. I found that remembering this simple fact made wiring a lot easier.

When I researched into making my own solar panel a few years ago I found out that top of the range mono solar cells were max 19% efficient and poly were around 16-17%. It may well be that cost effective panels may nowadays of crept up over the 20% mark. This link gives further info on panels that may be of interest to us mere mortals who may be looking at cost effective panels http://www.theecoexperts.co.uk/which-solar-panels-are-most-efficient I did bump into a professor on the towpath once who had an experimental space station solar panel which was about 33% efficient however the price for these was slightly over my budget. Found this link for further details. http://www.solarpowerworldonline.com/2016/03/kind-solar-panels-nasa-use/

I built a telecaster a few years ago and found this site a wealth of info http://www.tdpri.com/forums/ I used good quality components and Guitar came out very nicely but, like all my other guitars I've had over 50 years, if still played all the wrong notes. Now this chappie seems to of done things the opposite way round to me http://www.queenarchives.com/index.php?title=Brian_May_-_09-11-2002_-_Evening_Standard_-_DIY_junk_guitar

Congratulations both

The difference is that you get some charging in winter albeit an amp or 2 rather than no charge. IMHO Some is better than none. Having said that every set it has to take account of individual requirements e.g I have two unisolar stick on panels one on each side of a curved roof, initially I had them wired together through one controller but low angled light, typical in winter, would drag both sides down. I have now separated these and each has its own tracer BN 10a controler. My new pair of additional panels will be flat and are only required for low light conditions so the high volt low amp set up is the ideal for this case. I do have another flat mounted 240w panel through a Tracer BN 20a controler so these together with the unisolar panels give me more than enough in summer. As I say it's all down to individual circumstances and configurations

The reason why a higher input voltage is desirable is because the trend over the last few years has been to produce higher voltage and lower amperage panels this trend has come about because of the ability of mppt controllers to handle the higher input voltages and the fact that the higher voltage panels will work better in low light situations. For example I am awaiting delivery of 2 175w panels with 30voc and 8.25a I intend to wire these to give 60voc and 8.25a. As the light drops the voltage drops but a charging voltage should be available under low light conditions, a good mppt controller will then raise the charging current. If I wired it as 30voc and 16.5a then the point at which a charging current is no longer available, due to low light conditions, will come sooner than on the first example. Basically I should be getting some charge in low light conditions with the 60v configuration whereas the 30v configuration may have dropped below a charging voltage. As you may have deduced yourself this is particularly useful in winter low light conditions where, given the same conditions, some charging could take place instead of zero charging taking place. Thisis where the beauty of the mppt controler technology scores

Actually not to impressed with the specification of this particularly the max open circuit voltage of 15-42 volts for a little more you could get a Tracer, in fact the new cheaper CN model tracer should be available soon, can't say what they are like but I have 3 of the Tracer BN series mppt controllers and and very pleased with them. In fact just found link to the new CN series which appear to have a max open circuit voltage of 100volts http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Budget-20A-12v-24v-MPPT-charge-Controller-Cheap-Tracer2210CN-/302292215470?hash=item46620526ae:g:jIQAAOSwU8hY8fWj