martyn 1

Don't forget when putting the head back on to follow the procedure relating to the hydraulic tappets otherwise if your unlucky you will be swapping a blown head gasket for bent pushrods and/or valves and rockers.

Is this what your looking for. http://watermaps.environment-agency.gov.uk/wiyby/wiyby.aspx?topic=floodmap#x=357683&y=355134&scale=2

Ok, I will bite. How do you get that " it's technically spot on" The OP asked for a size, you gave a comment that its determined by the manifold outlet size (Which yes is a reasonable rule of thumb in some cases) but not an actual dimension and as the engine isn't new it could easily have a non original manifold/adapters etc with the wrong outlet size so measuring it wouldn't help the OP other than to identify that they have an incorrect bit fitted (If they had a dimension reference to know that). I was stating that for a certain pipe length, silencer type and number of bend combinations the diameter changes. Therefore as the OPs exhaust will most likely fall into the sub 4.5m (15') category even with any bends accounted for then the data I put for up to 4.5m is very relevant as it is what the manufacturer states to correctly install the exhaust for the OPs engine (2" bore).

Not technically true. The installation details for all engines will state a minimum diameter for a certain length of exhaust (In some cases significantly larger than the manifold outlet) and a maximum allowable back pressure (Data for HR / HRW 2/3 below) Now for the relatively short lengths used on most narrow boats mean that it isn't going to make much difference as long as your close on sizing, but if you get it very wrong then the increased back pressure will effect performance, as the engine essentially cant breath properly. Based on the below data I would have though 2" bore was the minimum size you needed. Data below from HR/HRW 2 & 3 installation instructions Maximum exhaust system backpressure of 40 " of H2O (100mBar) Exhaust to be kept as straight as possible and each 90 Degree bend should have a minimum bend radius of 4 times the diameter of the pipe and must be accounted for by adding 304.8mm (12") to the total length. Up to 4.5m (15') = 2" bore min 4.5m to 11m (36') = 2.5" bore min The list goes to alot higher lengths, but probably not relevant here.

As By'eck has mentioned I would try Sleeman's but I wouldn't hold your breath. Its most likely to be a re-metal job. The bearings are getting hard to find now. Don't forget if your grinding the crank that the timing gear will no longer fit afterwards. so you will need that at a suitable undersize as well.

I don't have the paperwork in from of me but I will dig out the go/no go data when I get home. max taper, ovality etc etc as the tolerances for a lot of this is not in the standard manuals. The normal maximum tolerances are in the manuals but Lister also stated in there internal documents the criteria at which they would replace when they carried out an overhaul, this is what we work to. As much as I personally wouldn't reuse the old bearings from the other engine, If you give them a very detailed look over for damage and measure them up (in the rod and torqued up) and the tolerance is maintained over the full width of the journal you intend to use them on then i'm sure they would be fine.

The original equipment for Gardner LW's depending on the setup of the individual engines was either Bosch or CAV made BS5 (12v for the smaller 2 and 3LWs), SL5 (24v only) or U6 (24v mostly but some 12v) models. The Bosch one have different model names but essential the same. Its worth bearing in mind that even the smallest of these starters is 3Kw, if memory serves, so the transit type starter is probable OK on a 2, a bit pushing it on a 3 and probably a bad idea on a 4,5,6.

If your really lucky it will have the part no stamped on it, 13-15-608 for a JK crank 13-5-30 or 13-5-61 if its JP. My money would be your engine has had a set of JP bearings fitted by mistake at some point in its life as the rest of it matches the JK build so I would think its fairly unlikely its not a JK crank.

Hate to be the bringer of bad news, the bearing on the left is a JK one as you know (Easily distinguishable from JP by the 45 Deg chamfer instead of the radius). The one on the right is a Lister part but the number on it is the original Lister number for a JP bearing so if you are intending to run that engine at over 1200rpm and all four of the big ends are marked 8-1 /D8 then you will need a set of four JK bearings. A copy of the manual that shows the earlier number see here (This copy is pre the release of the JS/JK) click here page 85 on the control bar or 82 physically written on the page. At a guess as from our previous conversations and the photos you showed me it is a JK, I would say at some point someone has fitted it with a set of the incorrect big end bearings in the past. Also worth checking, I think it does from your photos but cant make it out fully, does your bottom end have the vibration damper fitted? about a 10/12 inch disc on the injector pump end of the crankshaft. The bottom end you had from us had one fitted for comparison.

There are a number of companies that can do re-metaling but you will either find they have a sensible price but a very long wait or a price that makes you go and cry in a dark corner but can be done in 4-6 weeks ish. A number of companies we have used over the years range between £80 per bearing on a JP to £220 both plus VAT.

Its perfectly possible to do because the JS/JK bearings are identical to the JP ones except made from a higher grade white metal. they are not thin wall. (With the exception of the centre mains on 3's and 4's as these are dimensionally different on JS/JK engines but still thick wall bearings. The norm for new bearing material on old engines like this is Hoyt 11R which far exceeds the properties of both the JP and JS/JK type original bearing materials anyway.

Do make sure they are JK bearings you get not JP, Original JP ones will physically fit but are made of a much lower grade of white metal and don't stand up well to the higher RPM. PN in the later numbering is 010-04039 for JK The JP ones are 010-04008

I would try Sleeman & Hawken as a first try but in their OEM flavour they are getting hard to find.

If your DM2 is on a keel cooled system then you need antifreeze well unless you would rather drain the water out every time the temperature is likely to get down to zero C. If its on a raw water cooled system then as there is no freeze protection in the canal water you would need to drain it again whenever it is likely to get down to zero.

you get a greenie for that.

My thoughts as well, where are the hours of swearing at a part that wont come off even with pullers, only to go and have a cuppa to find when you return it has........

Not necessarily true, many of the LW series of engines do not have the bearing you speak of. many just have a oil control scroll similar to the flywheel end. Having said the above either way your still not going to induce enough load with a properly tensioned alternator to cause an issue although you will be causing a little more load on the LW type with a scroll that the type with the bearing due to the extended lever between pulley and the first support bearing.

Choices would be to get a gear company to make some, so you have brand new. track down some NOS ones. or I do have a number of complete used gearboxes but wouldn't be sure that the bits you need were any better than what you have. Interestingly the parts lists I have here lists that all parts are common for both 2 & 3 cylinder boxes except for the input gear that attaches to the crank. (The two engines have a different size taper) X87 -11141 and X87-11131. 2 of each.

Yep it does say that, but in most cases its not necessary. with OEM liners I haven't found one yet that is too high, the odd one or two that have been too low, but then no amount of grinding past will fix that..... It is however good practice to dry fit the liners to check the protrusion before final fit. Oh and don't forget to get the cutouts in the bottom of the liners in the right orientation when fitting them for the last time.....

You could if it wont budge. but normally they do in JP's just makes you a bit twitchy as the pressure gauge on the hydraulics starts getting high. Londonron - forgot to mention yesterday, make sure once the liner is removed that you clean all the faces in the block at the top and bottom that the liner contacts. if the bottom hole in the block and most importantly the radius at the top of it are badly corroded/pitted (Fairly common) this will need to be dressed/repairs before trying to fit the new liners. If you don't then you run the risk of trashing the liner o rings.

What your looking for is something along the lines of below Ebay link Hydraulic Ram & Ebay link Hydraulic pump (Enerpac which I mentioned yesterday is a brand) along with a length of as large as possible high tensile stud bar (that will fit through the ram) with a couple of nuts. Ours is And a plate to fit the bottom of the liner (30mm thick ish) with a hole for the above stud bar. And a stand for the ram on the top that will allow some space for the liner to pull out. the bottom of this stand ideally should have a hole in the middle just larger than the liner and contact all around the top face of the block to minimise the change of breaking lumps out. I will see if I can find a picture of ours setup on an engine when I get back to my computer later. but esentially what your will need to try to rent is the ram and associated pump the rest will need to be made up.

Been there, tried that, and then went and got a hydraulic puller. Unless your engine has had a liner change recently (last decade, and had antifreeze in it since) the likelyhood is your wont shift them with a manual puller. It has always made me laugh that the instructions in the manual for removing the liners makes it sound so easy and that only a block of wood is needed.......

A puller will definitely be needed. The one we use is a 60 tonne hydraulic puller and on some occasions this comes very close to topped out when trying to remove liners from JP's (Depending on levels of corrosion on the inside of the block) You will also need to ensure whatever puller you use spreads the load evenly around the top of the block around the liner otherwise you may remove the liner with a part of the deck of the block still attached.....

They are rather fun as they were done for individual builds, for example we have a pile that are for JP's and lists just the piston pump but then we also have them that cover the JS and JK as well and they dont show this pump but do show the later gear pump. and then we also have some that show the JK type centrifugal pump. and then to add to this ones specific for industrial or marine propulsion or marine auxiliary. Lots of fun.