ThePiglet

Does anyone know anyone who may know someone who reconditions engines? My Lister Petter AC2W 'gave up' a few months ago and it was easier at the time for me to swap than repair. I'd like to get the duff one reconditioned and painted up nicely rather than leave it in the back of the garage. Time is not of the essence so a spare time project for someone in return for cash maybe?

Perhaps the eBay listing below gives some insight... eBay clicky

It does indeed look to be the right price as I've found another place that's selling them for around the same price... I was planning on a Thetford C200, but this is looking more and more attractive as I'd be able to keep the cassette out the back.

Hi, I work for Sky (Broadband) and my understanding is: If you're an existing Sky subscriber and have been for over 12 months then you can move your existing Sky+ box onboard with no phoneline. If you're taking a new contract then you'll have to pay a £25 'manual pairing' fee, plus you may lose the interactive discount on the box (the land line is so Sky can gather viewing stats and Sky/others can make ££ from red button stuff). If you have a subscription at home and have multiroom then you MUST have both both boxes connected to a phone line. You can't have one box at home and one on the boat with a multiroom setup (the contracts require they be in the same premises and connected to a line with the same caller line identity).

I used Plumba-flue between the deck collar and deck, but as it's only rated at 300degC I was worried about using it directly against the chimney. At the weekend I'll clear out the top of the cement (keeping it in for bulk) and top it off with Plumba-flue. Ta.

On the same chimney leaking topic, I recently installed my stove and used fire cement between the flue and collar. Is fire cement water soluble when dry? I ask as when I returned in the morning, even though it was stiff/hard when I left, it had rained overnight and gone mushy and also leaked down the chimney. Is this just because I didn't give it long enough to dry out or because it's not suitable?

My family hired a boat from Anglo Welsh when I was little. I went to throw my keys on to the top bunk, they promptly bounced off and flew through the slatted window into the cut

I'm going to have to place my stove between the end of my kitchen and dinette, what kind of air gap on the sides/back would the Boatman require? With the Davey I was planning on having a stainless heat shield made up to go around the sides and back which would mean less space required.

Interesting! I think most are a bit too big for me but "The Faversham" looks good! A little more expensive than the Davey, but not much more when you add in the cost of the collar/flange. Thanks.

Hi, It's COLD. Rather than run my generator to heat my boat as I work on it (no comments about working harder to break a sweat!) I've decided to skip the sink/water pump/ceiling/walls/steps stages and bring forward the 'Install stove' phase. Even if it be temporarily in a safe fashion. My boat's only a 27ft springer so space is at a premium. I've pretty much set my heart on a 6 inch wide Davey Hot Pot but does anyone else have any other suggestions? Searching Google for narrow solid fuel stoves isn't proving much use.

I had a similar problem with my boat in that there was no provision for drainage from the stern deck when I bought it. I got hold of a bit of firm canvas (like the good old trailer cover stuff) and a set of push fit poppers from ebay and made my own. I glued the edges over double and used my mum's sewing machine on a long stitch and some nylon thread, then put on the poppers. The popper bases are screwed into tapped holed around the top of the cabin and the back rail. It's now bone dry inside. Cost £20 maybe less.

What happens if I buy a tankful for domestic use and my circumstances change? Can I re-declare and send a cheque off to HMRC?

I dunno what's going on there then, the Marsworth one (highlited green) is just below with a Highest Bid of £2k. Fine, except there was no tender of £2k! Ref 330 (highlited red) was a £2k tender though! It's all over the place. The guide price of my mooring is listed as £200 higher than it says online. Good all BW, hopefully the same clumsy oaf isn't looking after the online licence lookup database

I don't know if anyone has spotted this file on the BW tender website. It's a list of all closed tenders and comments. https://mooringtenders.waterscape.com/media...sed_Tenders.pdf The formatting is a bit messed up (comments roll to a seperate page, but when you marry them up (page 5 with page 12), you can see that it looks like the 6k tender went through sucessfully!

It's a bit lat in the weekend for it now, but how about a wander between Bath and Bradford-on-Avon? I saw load of moored boats advertised for sale when I cycled it last week.

The distant expiry is normal. I got my mooring from the tendering process and that's how mine came, along with an equally long parking permit.

I went up bright and early this morning to play but the engine wouldn't start at all. It would sort of run if I held the rear decompression lever up (i.e. it ran on the front cylinder) but would not do anything on the rear cylinder. The rear cylinder appeared to have fuel leaking back out from the injector 'ole so I tightened up the two bolts but it made no difference. I swapped the two injectors over to see if the fault swapped with them, but now they both 'puff' fuel as if they are not seated well. The fuel quality appears to be fine. The prop is not fouled. It was cold so I stopped looking after that. Edit: I'm at the point where I'm seriously considering replacing the whole thing with something a little more modern with more available parts, the waterjacket for the exhaust is rusted/cracked through (bypassed) and it's too tall for the rear deck anyway. Any suggestions on a small 10-15hp diesel replacement? No gearbox required.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I checked the valves at the time, I removed the covers as you said and manually rotated the engine over a couple of cycles. There appeared to be compression on both cylinders and all the valves were moving up and down. I believe the drive (stern or Z) has a spring held clasp hook that you push down and this frees up the whole lot to rotate upwards. I played with it when it was out of the water. There is a square shaft poking out next to the drive shaft inside, I've no idea what this is for. (Ignore the floppy hoses, cables and unlagged exhaust, this is an old image)

I'm going to check the fuel supply and filters tomorrow. I'll take a can of road white with me to try too. I put the tank in myself new and it has had 25l of road white and 25l of red from Hilperton, that's since May. Condensation is a possibility as the tank is not kept anywhere near full. It has a stern drive which makes checking the prop easy in theory, though it's not something I've needed to try yet...

Yep, and the block temperature is, and always has been cool to touch.

It's something I'll check tomorrow morning, but the smoke is there when it's reved out of gear.

After taking my boat UP a lock for the first time today all was going really quite well. No rain, a gentle breeze and someone else doing all the grunt work. That is, until it came to turning around. She's only a 27' Springer so we turned between the lock and road bridge at B-o-A. Almost all the way round, the engine belches black smoke and dies Cue the rain... it rains. We manage to moor and the engine (a Petter AC2W) will turn over and rev, giving white smoke on tickover and black on high revs. It stalls when put into gear, loss of power. I checked we had fuel - OK I checked the oil level - Normal I checked the fuel cut out solenoid - OK I checked the air filter - Seems OK The engine has been a bit smokey ever since I've had it (quite a bit at high revs) and it was on my 'todo' list of winter jobs to take out and have serviced, but white smoke is new. Having searched the forum, a good start seems to be the fuel for water and failing that, the injectors serviced. Does anyone else have any other ideas? Edit: Oh, and I forgot, where is the best place in Bath/Bristol/B-o-A to get injectors looked at?

It's the ram tip

Go on then, post a picture!