richardf

I don't think she is anything like that wide now - pulled in when she was cut in half and a steel bulkhead at the front to keep her from spreading. She's certainly been to Llangollen

That's what I was told - they tighten up as you descend

We went up and down the flight last week. Our boat has the stern of an old GUCCC butty and has a pronounced pregnant bulge where they join the the new bit We went through with plenty to spare. Lock 2 is apparently the worst. The volunteer lockie told me that it tightens up as you descend and that they had to flush 'at least one boat out a year'

Thanks - we are booked in! I'll keep an eye out for the hi viz Cheers

Hi Braunston Rally Newbie here. We are turning up on Friday from Napton direction and have just about enough original rivets to have booked into the rally! Can anybody tell me how moorings are allocated; are there normally mooring people around to direct boats on arrival or is it 'first come first served'. Where exactly are the rally moorings? I am not intending to go in the parades, so would like to be facing north for a lunchtime exit on Sunday, is it possible to go through the marina and turn left or should I attempt to wind below the locks (48 feet would make this feasible I think) Any advice much appreciated and hope to meet some of you over the weekend Cheers Richard

I've just bought one on ebay for about £80 - runs perfectly. I looked at the option of repairing my old fridge, but some bits were not available and some seemed to attract a premium price. Ebay or caravan breakers......

Have you looked at the Uno - made by Heritage in Cornwall. I work with them with another range cooker brand and would have no hesitation in recommending them as a good ethical company

I've bought a couple of new stern fenders today and thought I might also treat myself to some stainless D shackles as the galv ones just seem to go rusty. I was going to buy them online in the hope of getting them cheaper than at a chandlers - but don't really have a clue what size to fit or even how shackles are measured. Some advice would hence be great Thanks

Tony Redshaw makes a nice thermostat housing with the bypass facility http://www.vintagediesels.co.uk/img/thermostat.jpg

Was it also televised, given the locations of start and finish?

I have a Vermont Intrepid at home at it works a treat - but of course there is a much longer flu

That's why watersealed gas holders (the ones that you see go up and down) are safe - they don't explode..... if punctured when full e.g. with a flame torch, they set alight only where the gas escapes under pressure into the the air and then the whole holder slowly deflates until it sinks into it's own bath of water and self extinguishes. I believe that is exactly what happened when the IRA bombed Greeenwich Holder Station - the holder burned until it was submerged and extinguished itself

How much of the interior needs to get stripped out for a job like this generally?

Exactly the same issues; I lay mine horizontally along some paper towel to check the level. I believe that if you don't screw the plug back in and simply rest it on top of the casing, then the bottom line is actually now equivalent to the full line. Obviously screw it down when you have finished checking it!

On their website, its says that online is included

So what happens when I am sitting in a (steel) deck chair, enjoying a nice cup of tea when someone chucks the cables from a genny into the canal a few feet away (is that how its done?) - do I go the same way as the fish!!!

Could someone explain the tests one can carry out with a test meter to check that everything is connected properly please? I can check voltage or for electrical connection. Most of the time (when we are not on board) the battery master switches are off and we are only connected to 240 vis a Galvanic Isolator Battery earth to hull, engine to hull etc.? Thanks

From memory, I think the prop was 20x17. No rev counter, so unable to state revs. I'm running a 2:1 reduction if that helps

Can't see it being ventilation as the counter at the rear is about 3inches under and will go down even further when underway. I also replaced the weed hatch seal in case it was sucking in air that way

Last year I changed my engine from a Kelvin P4 to a Perkins D3. My counter was always in the water by some way and I never suffered cavitation at all. The D3 is obviously lighter and although the counter was still in the water, the cavitation noise was really evident I added some extra ballast (it's now deeper than ever) and things have improved, however sometimes it returns, when the only thing that will stop it is to slow down I get the feeling that it is shallow canals that give me a problem. Has anyone found it to be depth dependent? I am probably spinning the prop faster, but a recent prop calc showing that I am not far off optimum. Can I be too deep, could that cause it? Any ideas folks?