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Everything posted by MarkH2159

  1. I have an old MX40 which generally works quite well. A while go it started smoking quite badly and when I took it apart I found it to be badly coked up. and a quick clean out soon had it sorted. I also noted that it might benefit fom a new wick but didnt find one. I have just taken it apart to inspect and if necessary decoke before I will really need it this winter. The unit is clean as a whistle, no sign of any nasty deposits and all good. The only issue is the wick, which is probably only 50% remaining and in dire need of replacement. Spares for the MX40 are no longer stocked by the suppliers MV Heating and I am not aware of anyone else having stocks either. Has anyone any ideas on a suitable alternative or any experience in making your own to fit? I would have a go but I am not sure what material it is made of and where to source if at all available.
  2. Must be a 'thing' on the Caldon today. Another set was left at the Etruria Services around 1 pm. I put them in a safe place and left a note with my number in the hope that I am able to reunite them with their owner. So far nothing heard.
  3. That is regular epoxy on top of bitumen and is as expected. The SML product is different and so far reports of it going on and staying on over old bitumen are good. Any bitumen blacking has to be well hardened and any loose stuff removed.
  4. I have the same BV1305 engine with 7k+ hours on it. The only problem has been the Lift Pump which I believe is a well known point of failure on this engine. My engine is lower than my fuel tank and will run with the lift pump by-passed but that was with a full tank. Got shot of the Lift Pump and all its problems by fitting a cheap electric fuel pump instead and have never had any issues since.
  5. I would be looking at SML Ballistic Epoxy coating as a quality alternative to regular blacking but does not require the surface preparation that is necessary with normal epoxy replacement, ie no shot blasting etc. My boat has been 2 pack epoxy from new and was redone several years ago. Subsequently it has had regular blacking applied over the epoxy. On inspection I can see areas where the regular blacking has been worn or knocked off but underneath the epoxy remains in very good condition. With this in mind my choice will be to use the SML product to ensure a good coating over the existing mix.
  6. I have a Dawes Kingpin folding bike. Nice sized bike, 20 inch wheels and has rack, 7 speed etc. Folds up and goes in a good easy to carry bag, total weight is under 13 kg. I sits inside my boat, where it fits very nicely under the gunwale behind the armchair so no extra space is really taken up. In fact it fits so neatly I have never yet had cause to take it out and ride it !!
  7. Although I am not recommending you get it from Midland, their website has your exact model. along with many others that will give you a pointer as to what to buy. https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/products/4kg-high-demand-propane-regulator-1-2-m47
  8. Exactly ! I would suggest that in the amount of time you have taken to verify the leak, take pictures and assess the date of regulator etc etc , you could have changed the regulator and hose many times, particularly considering the cost and danger of lost gas !
  9. The space for 2 boats just near the Premier Inn has been occupied continuously for months. I found better quieter moorings on clear Armco just north of Timothys Bridge #64 and enjoyed the short walk down to the Premier Inn area. Incidentally it was handy to use the Amazon Lockers in the Premier Inn foyer.
  10. My NB is fitted with a hydraulic wheel steering set up. It comprises of a Vetus Wheel and integral rotary pump unit driving a simple hydraulic ram mounted to an arm fixed to the rudder stock. Similar systems are fitted to many widebeam boats. Using a free-wheel or bypass valve I can have tiller only with no hydraulics involved or wheel and obviously the tiller is still connnected, but I am able to remove the extension arm if I wish. The use of the ram connected to the rudder stock means that total movement is restricted to 90 degress, ie 45 degrees either side of centre or midships. I cannot put my rudder over to 90 degrees but in reality it is not necessary. Although the system can and has been used on narrow canals, somehow using the conventional tiller seems to be much better. Even though the wheel only requires one full turn to go from centre or midships to hard over either way, it just doesnt work so well. However, when on wider canals and rivers the system is very useful. I have recently done the Avon and Severn from Stratford to Tewkesbury and then to Stourport and having the use of the wheel was really nice as I was able to sit in a tall chair and basically steer with my foot most of the time. As for the OP question in respect of 'telemotor' these would only be found on older vessels or where there is restriction on available space in the steering compartment. Modern ships/boats use hydraulic rams in various configurations usually dependent on rudder size and operating power required. I have not seen many narrowboats with hydraulic steering set ups, but as it happens today I passed one near Chirk. The particular boat had a conventional tiller at the stern and in the bow a steering wheel and morse control for the engine. I would have liked to have been able to stop and take a closer look, but there was nobody araound at the time.
  11. Spot on, except that only one of them can be the queen unless they take it in turns. Stopped watching their stupidity when they began kissing each other and such like. I found them to be too commercial, everything they do or talk about is sponsored and therefore biased. As for them having yet another new build on the way, just goes to show how unhappy they must be with the "most famous narrowboat in the world"
  12. Rested voltage is 12.8 not 12.6 and they take several hours to come down from 14+ fully charged to sit at 12.8 which they will do for a very long time if relatively unused. Although my bank is labelled as 880 AH I put 800 into the meter settings to allow a bit for age. I also set and calibrated the meter on installation about 3 weeks ago when i replaced my old less accurate unit. This morning the voltage is 12.65 and the meter reads 90.6% SOC which to my reckoning is pretty accurate. I have 540 watts of solar which generally covers my daily consumption and easily keeps the batteries between 95 and 98% full. I also note that if they are at around 90-93% it takes several hours of alternator charging to get them to 100% The rate of charge might initially be 40+ amps but it tails off more or less in a linear fashion, but with the last 1 or 2 % taking about 2 hours or more to achieve. All of this tells me that my batteries are in a relatively good state and as you say, i must be doing something right for them to be approaching 7 years old with no real problems.
  13. re true SOC Following the instructions I set the monitor when i first connected it to my now 6+ year old bank of batteries. Having ensured they were fully charged, ie reading 14+ volts and taking just under 2 amps to maintain them at that voltage for at least 2 hours, I set the total AH capacity and then zeroed the meter to read 100% SOC. With engine/charging stopped for several hours my batteries hold a resting voltage of 12.8 and will do so for considerable time. With use, lights, fridge, 4G router, watching TV overnight the voltage will drop to around 12.6 and in the morning the monitor will show around 93 to 95% SOC. I believe this to be as accurate as it gets and definitely much better than the SOC as indicated on my MPPT controller which comes up with some strange percentages,
  14. I have an older Beta 35 with a 40 Amp alternator dedicated to a single 110 AH Start Battery and a 70 Amp alternator for domestic bank via an Adverc system and also split charge unit to charge the bowhruster battery. My domestic bank is 8 x 110 AH Sealed Lead Acid and Bow Thruster is 110 AH SLA. I have Smart Battery Monitor with shunt and can see exactly what is going to or from the Domestic Bank at any time. Overnight my batteries usually drop to between 90 and 95% SOC as measured by the monitor that was calibrated at 100% when I installed it. When starting the engine I can see that even on tickover the alternator is pushing around 45 amps to the batteries and over about 4 to 5 hours this drops steadily to just under 2 amps float as the bank becomes fully charged showing a steady 14.2 v So my old 70 Amp alternator copes with 990 AH of batteries with no problem at all.
  15. Agreed, hence my wishing to seperate my engine fuel set up from my heating set up, with seperate feeds, filters etc. Short of having a seperate tank, it was the best option. Also the heating draws from higher so I should always have engine fuel when the heating runs out.
  16. I have just changed my heating system fuel supply set up. Originally there were two Lucas Cav type filters. One was fed from a low tank suction and fed the engine and the Mikuni Diesel heater. The other was from a higher suction and fed only the Kabola Diesel Stove. I kept the two filter arrangement and swapped the feed to the Mikuni over to the spare outlet on the filter that was feeding only the Kabola. So now I have engine on low suction with its own filter and the heating units on higher suction with their own filter. This, I believe is the correct way for two supply set up. If you have only one supply from the tank then it is quite normal to use the second outlet from the engine filter, if available, to feed the heater. This would be much better than trying add another fuel supply line from the tank. If no second outlet on filter available, I would T into the engine supply, preferably before the filter so as to be able to add a second filter for the heating system, but remember to add in a stop valve. Failing that, just T into the engine supply after the first filter and add a stop valve to supply the heater.
  17. It is not quite a standard trailer such as we see around the system and as in your picture. Instead of the usual single hydraulically operated lift axle each side, it has a total of 8 axles and 16 tyres. Obviously due to the need for low ground pressure at the scene. That makes it a fancy one in my book! It is not quite a standard trailer such as we see around the system and as in your picture. Instead of the usual single hydraulically operated lift axle each side, it has a total of 8 axles and 16 tyres. Obviously due to the need for low ground pressure at the scene. That makes it a fancy one in my book!
  18. I am a sigle handed CC'r at the moment and can understand there may be issues in certain parts of the country and indeed there are lots of warnings of where not to moor especially in some urban areas, but generally I have not encountered any real problems. I have had kids let go my bow mooring on one occasion and met some nutters on the towpath, but apart from an inquisitive cat I have had no unwanted visitors. Choosing and planning where to moor is the key and I prefer to stay 'out of town' if I can. Mooring with other boats is also a good option if you plan to leave the boat for any length of time. My boat is fitted with a 360 degree security camera and a remote entry alarm system but fortunately they have not yet been used in anger. As for sleeping, never had it so good.
  19. Well there you go, must have been done very recently because I passed it last week still high and dry. Looks to be a fairly sophisticated lifting trailer, nice job.
  20. Last week I was talking to a surveyor who was involved in this case. The boat is all electric and was put ashore by the river floods of last winter. The owner has taken the opportunity to carry out maintenance and blacking etc. The land is too soft for a crane and trailer to get in there to move it. He was given an offer from the team at nearby RAF Benson to use a heavy lift Chinook they have for exercise purposes and free of charge, however that was thwarted by the local authority eco warriors who were concerned about possible damage to wildlife and trees from the rotor downwash. There are apparently a lot of bats in the area. Other plans to excavate and build an earth ramp so as to be able to push the boat back into the water have similarly been thwarted by wildlife issues. The use of a Pulling Barge situated mid river and in place for when the river next floods has been explored and may well be the only option.
  21. My swan neck was slightly out of alignment and I also had a knocking issue from the hydraulic steering ram so i needed to remove the swan neck to investigate and re align. I copied this method and it worked a treat. http://dru-withoutamap.blogspot.com/2021/06/replacing-rudder-stock-bearing-on.html
  22. I just used the same method, Bottle Jack, Chain and Bar with big Hammer, worked a treat.
  23. Yep and one on the top would help keep the rain off, no harm in having both.
  24. Solar Dump system will be the best way to go about it in summer. Many Youtube videos on how to do it. Here is one that uses existing 240v immersion element. Personally I am going for a 12v Immersion heater element that I can run directly off the switched load of my Solar MPPT Controller to heat water using excess solar capability.
  25. Except in summer when a solid fuel fire is the last thing you will need.
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