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    On my way up north
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    Master Mariner/Ship Surveyor
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MarkH2159's Achievements



  1. Ah well, the safety is in the BMS settings and knowing how to read and adjust them. I know I am not 100% in any single cell because the BMS is constantly monitoring and has an individual Cell High Voltage Disconnect. It also has a Cell Low Voltage Disconnect, as well as a Pack Sum Voltage High/Low, Cell Differential Voltage Disconnect etc. The only time I did take it all to 100% is when I was performing the initial Top Balancing. So to remind you how I am able to avoid overcharging or any other 'dangerous' situations is by using a decent BMS with the correct settings which has safety features that cannot be exceeded. Thanks for the insult that I 'blindly tell the world that they are safe and happy in that regime' The fact is I am neither blind nor living dangerously. I am just one of many who have self built Lithium Batteries quite successfully and we are all quite happy about them. Now if that somehow scares you, then carry on and be scared, but do not try to tell others how wrong we are because the proof is in the pudding.
  2. Yes and yes. All voltages are user configurable. Cell High/Low Voltage disconnect, Pack Sum High/Low voltage disconnect, Balance start voltage, Cell differential Balance start etc etc.
  3. Obviously you missed my post where I said I set the BMS is set to cut the charge at a Pack Voltage of 14v and the discharge at 12v, This keeps the LiFePOs in the safe zone (90% high - 10% low) and that along with regular cycling is all they need.
  4. Spot On !!! And at 0.006 ohms the extra heat created would be........Not Discernable
  5. I have no need to calculate the power dissipation. You seem to think the unused alternator power is being somehow redirected to create heat, but that is not the way it works at all. I do know that the load on my alternator is reduced, therefore the heat it produces is less and life of unit and belt is increased. I also know that B2B units cost a lot of money and often generate a lot of heat and are another complicated electronic gizmo prone to failure. I also know that at a cost of around £4 I have put in a simple and safe method of achieving the necessary. Changing the alternator or its regulator is definitely not necessary and I am not the only one who has proved it.
  6. ?? The reason for the 14v Charge cut off is so that the Lithiums do not actually reach their full 100% charge capacity. Unlike lead Acids the LiFePO4s do not fair well being fully charged all the time. Similarly the low voltage discharge cut off is set to 12v so they never get to being totally flat either. Using the range 14v to 12v keeps the Lithium cells running at between 90 and 10% charge, a range in which they are both happy and safe and gives me a usable 80% of the 280AH total. Do not confuse LiFePO4 with Lithium Ion batteries. LiFePO4s are perfectly safe and happy at under 100% charge state.
  7. I bought on eBay but the seller is Sterling. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Daly-12V-100A-BMS-4s-lithium-w-balance-leads-NTC-bluetooth-bundle-UK-stock-/324695653537?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
  8. My 100A Daly BMS purchased from Mr Sterling does indeed have a Low Temperature charge disconnect. It actually has programmable Charge High Temp Disconnect Charge LowTemp Disconnect Discharge High Temp Disconnect Discharge Low Temp Disconnect Differential Temp Protect MOS Temp Protect
  9. ah yes, apologies, my bad, I spent a lot of time in the southern hemisphere where things do happen the other way round.
  10. You speak from experience..? There is no discernable extra heat produced as the increased resistance is actually minimal. It is basically just enough to cause the regulator to drop the output of the alternator. I repeat, no heat, no insulation melting, no sign of any such issues. It is in a single coil, held by small zip ties, in an enclosed engine compartment. Nothing is going to happen because 10mm2 cable can easily handle the total output of the alternator which is 70 amps.
  11. Alternator is direct to AGM via 10mm2 cable 2m long. No fancy B2B or DC to DC, no switches etc. The long wire method proves them all to be totally unnecessary and a waste of money. Keep it simple is always the best way.
  12. I refer to the 'media hype' of today along with of course all previous recent weather hype such as 'snow bomb to blanket the whole of the country' etc etc. It is quite obvious that the media are now exaggerating all weather related phenomena, possibly under instruction from those in control who want us all to stay home.
  13. Similar track..???? 35 years ago the depression tracked down the North Sea moving in a south westerly direction. I think you will find that the predicted track of Fridays depression is exactly the opposite.
  14. The Alternator is connected to the AGM which is connected to the Inverter which is connected to the Lithium. Basically all three units are in parallel. The reason for this is threefold... As Lithiums do not like temperature change and can be damaged if attempts are made to charge at very low temperatures, the BMS is programmed to cut off the Lithium at 5C. By putting the Lithium inside, in the same locker as the Inverter, it overcomes the possibility of it ever suffering freezing temperatures. Secondly it extends the amount of wiring between the alternator and the Lithium thereby introducing a resistance which artificially reduces the lithium ability to suck too much charge from the alternator. Thirdly as the Lithium is providing most of the power demand of the inverter, having it close by on short cables reduces any cabling losses. By using the 'long wire' and 10mm2 cable I am still connecting the alternator with a wire of sufficient size to handle its total rated output of 70 amps but the resistance induced automatically cuts the amperage. This means that there is no need for any kind of ballast resistance or other add in that could complicate things and produce heat, thereby wasting energy.
  15. Yes you can. Filter it first- a pair of old tights over a drum works well. Mix it with a decent amount of regular diesel and it will do no harm. I ran a Fiesta 1800 diesel on a similar 50:50 mixture for years when my son worked in a chip shop.
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