Tracy D'arth

Sit tight and wait till it is sorted out.

Its a 'shoe', often added on the "corners" of the baseplate, much beloved by some surveyors.

As with most locks at canal junctions, to prevent one canal benefitting for using the others expensive and precious water.

Something to be said for floating ropes then?

Complicated if you cannot safely remove the whole thing without sinking the boat. The pin is in the impeller inside the tube so well under water. Is it in a watertight well compartment of its own? You could always learn to boat without it until the next docking.

Given, but what are you ;looking for? The tin container or the filter head?

Sorry, too confused to work that out, I'll take it as read.

What!!!! If the hot water came out of the bottom, how did they ever get any hot water?

I cannot understand how; when a calorifier fills from the bottom and empties from the top; this could ever happen, please refer to the evidence of the events for further comment.

Well if you have to heat it, the water has to be below. The rigidity of the copper is not improved by water, it just adds weight to prevent the calorifier moving.

The flange will be brass sweated/brazed into the copper, hopefully not soldered if it is original to the calorifier and not an addition. If its been put in with red lead paint and putty you may never get it out!

Lets clear it up. Are you looking for a new cast alloy filter head for a paper element filter or the tin can it fits in? Better to buy a new filter head and gasket to convert to a spin on can filter, its only 2 nuts and 3 pipes to undo.

Go on Graham, you manage to get everywhere else and most canals are only about 3ft deep now. You have loads of engine power and if you do touch bottom you can reverse off. It will only be mud anyway.

Looks like the belt was too narrow for the pulley. Possibly an "A" when a "B" would have been better

Drain it down a bit so that the top is above the water level. Get the plug very hot, with a blow lamp. When it cools it will come undone. If the flange is soldered in, ( unlikely ) don't overdo the heat.

Are you a slow learner or just unpleasant? Not the way to talk to others.

Shouting ( using many capitals ) is not necessary or welcomed on forums. If you wind folk up you can expect adverse reactions. The people on here are mostly friendly but some are belligerent and aggressive. The search function will find you masses of information that will be useful to you as a new boater.

If you want a gauge to look at ( Can you get it in your eyeline with the short capillary? ) then its fine if you want to spend so much. Personally I would prefer a light that is more obvious and economical.

The wood PARTS are replaceable and the least worrying bits. Its the steel hull that is most important because it is the only part that is irreplaceable.

Ensure that the small tube is not blocked as it will serve as an air vent to bleed air from the manifold.

There is no harm in being gentle with a rebuilt engine for the first few hours. Wind it over whilst you bleed it until you have oil pressure before the first start up. Once it has done a few hours, let it run to mid rev range for short periods under load. Then treat it like a working engine, no long idling periods, occasional full load use.

Mmmm, right hand thread, always difficult for the unwary to work out when its upside down! Diesel is an insidious creeping fluid, shows up well away from where the leak really is. Blue paper wipes help but always start looking above the obvious leakage as it runs down unseen.

To operate gauges you need the matching analogue sensors to the gauges as there are at least 2 standards.. What you have will work warning lights only. Really with a TS2 lights are all you need providing that they are in your eyeline whilst cruising.

Patent registered in 1938 by Wellworthy Piston Rings Limited. It is indeed for fitting piston rings onto pistons. File attached below. I haven't worked out the necessity of the rotating part yet unless it is so that the ring is turned as it is expanded to enable the pliers handles to remain horizontal. GB496031A_Original_document_20240514102612.pdf If this helps in understanding, good luck. " GB496031A Tool for use in fitting split spring rings Patent Translate Bibliographic data Description Claims Drawings Original document Citations Legal events Patent family Applicants WELLWORTHY PISTON RINGS LTD; ALBERT JOHN HAYWARD Classifications IPC B25B27/12; CPC B25B27/12 (EP); Priorities GB1570638A·1938-05-26 Application GB1570638A·1938-05-26 Publication GB496031A·1938-11-23 Published as GB496031A EN Tool for use in fitting split spring rings Abstract 496,031. Pliers. WELLWORTHY PISTON RINGS, Ltd., and HAYWARD, A. J. May 26, 1938, No. 15706. [Class 61 (ii)] Split-ring expanding pliers comprise two pairs 10a, 10b of spaced apart jaws working on pivot pins 12 and constituted by two main jaws 11a, 11b of bell-crank form working on a pivot 14 at right-angles to the pivots 12 and two auxiliary jaws 13a, 13b, together with two bell-crank operating levers 15a, 15b pivoted on the pivot 14 and having their shorter arms 16a, 16b connected by links 17 and springs 18 to the auxiliary jaws 13a, 13b such that by gripping the levers together the pairs of jaws 10a, 10b are first actuated to grip the ends of the ring whereupon the pairs of jaws are then moved apart to expand the ring, means being provided to limit the distance to which the pairs of jaws may be separated, such as a pin within the volute spring 21 engaging laterally extending portions 20 of the main jaws or adjustable screws carried thereby. Pegs 24 on the main jaws coacting with the levers 15a, 15b prevent the jaws of each pair from opening beyond a predetermined amount. "

Hack it out and replace? Or a sticker?