Boater Sam

The calorifier circuit is normally the thermostat bypass circuit on the engine so that the calorifier gets hot first. Do not expect any circulation to the skin tank until it has reached the temperature at which the thermostat starts to open.

Update. It would appear that after 9 months "works" and £3M spent that life in Middlewich is not as rosy as C&RT would like us to believe. There is now a free car wash on the main A530 road under the aqueduct adjacent to where the breach was. This is courtesy of the leak in the new embankment. There will be a free skating rink also as soon as the temperature drops to the normal seasonal average. If it was not so serious and ridiculous it would be a comedy.

Where I am its 21:38. Yes, we had a tremor, not unusual out here on the rim of fire.

I give up, if no one else can see it I must be the only idiot on here, goodnight.

Sorry to nag but that connection diagram in post 103 HAS to be wrong, there are red wires on negative terminals and black wires on positive terminals. Unless I am now addled as well as drunk, 48 v is coming of that stack if the connections are to be believed. The diagram is wrong!!! Add up the battery voltage as you go through the connections and you will see what I mean.

EOG is an annual agreement. But in Middlewich many bungalows were built on the canal side and a 20 year (I think) agreement reached with, at the time, BW, that the owners could moor a boat. Now that agreement ended a few years ago and I don't know how they stand now, but there are less boats moored there now.

Plastic bag in a gazunder if desperate, Dan. Would not entertain anything other than a big poo tank and self pump out kit, motorised. Spent a lot of my plumbing career shifting s**t and don't intend to ever carry it around in a plastic box.

Looking at the diagram of your battery connections, are they really connected like that? 48v electrics? I thought it was 24v. 2 in series, + to - twice is fine, but the pairs must connect + to + and - to - surely.

Looks like a fat bath tub I think.

Good idea having for and aft connections BUT Think about how you isolate the unused socket ( which is really a plug ) when the other makes it live!!

Its a 296 filter in that in line unit. Cheapest fuel filter available. It does look as though its not been changed for a while. Go mad and fill the tank whilst its low priced. Eat you hearts out, road diesel is 47p a litre here. (Philippines)

I am pleased for you that you have achieved a resolution. Belt alignment is critical when trying to transmit a lot of power. A cogged belt of good quality will last longer than a plain belt. I would have a couple of spares handy, that belt is working very hard. Some plant engines running big generators now use toothed belts like cam timing belts, perhaps this is the way to go as they don't need a lot of tension.

To be truthful, it came with the boat. £4500 is the cost of a new one. This one is 1947 production, is in full working order only having had 1 flap valve replaced in the last 22 years. Its older than me , just! I am quite attached to it,.....................Oh dear; should have phrased that better.

Could you shrink fit a thin band onto the pulley where the belt runs now with polyvee grooves on the outside?

Could be the Sun newspaper causing problems, do you get a burning smell when you read it?

None at all, that's why belt and braces there is a non return valve on the heating pipe it connects to.

Its a Kubota with the copper strap connections to the heater plugs with plastic sleeving on to insulate, yes? Something has dropped into the strap and shorted it to earth, happens all the time.? Oh see I was too late you found the collapsed heater plug. Its a rare fault, usually they just fail open circuit. Well done, you will know next time. That single isolator switch in the negative is a poor idea, they pack up too often. better with 2 switches, one in each positive, engine and cabin battery.

And where would you stand claiming for the damage incurred from your insurer who insist that you take all reasonable frost measures? They would refuse to pay for the calorifier as the cause of the damage, and only pay for the subsequent damage if you meet their conditions. This I know from frost claims on flats left unoccupied in winter.

The BMC 1.8D pulley is strong and OK providing it is kept well tight. The slightest bit of relaxation of the crankshaft bolt though and it starts to fret on the keyway till its slack and then the impact of the torsional vibrations rapidly wrecks it. If they are not badly cracked and haven't lost a bit completely I weld them up and refinish the seal surface because they are quite expensive new. But loading it up with a big double or poly vee pulley may be just to much. After all it was designed in the '30s, last built in the UK late '70s and designed to run a 27A dynamo! You are going to struggle to run that 120A alternator. As a trial I would use a B width belt and get the alignment spot on. Don't try over tensioning the belt in a vain attempt to cure the problem, the water pump bearings will not withstand it. There may ne a small advantage on using the water pump pulley made for the direct cooling marinisation, it has a larger diameter for the belt so you need a longer belt. It gives the pump an easier life by reducing its rotational speed slightly.