Widwick

UPDATE #2 Thank you Chris for your last. Ok - I disconnected the rigid connectors to the top of the three glow plugs and connected a piece of hy duty cable with ring terminals to top of plugs 1 and 2. IT WORKED The heater relay pulled in and then the engine fired up and happily ran. Have now removed the inlet manifold and injector pipework to remove the three plugs. Got them all out OK . Have identified the type and number and ordered NGK replacements on line (About 3 times cheaper than a nameless ships chandlers. I have never bled a diesel before so that will also be a first. I'm also concerned about whether there are any torque figures I have to use in refitting the diesel feed tubes and the plugs themselves. (Up to sheer and back half a turn?!). No chance of getting anything on the nuts other than an open jawed spanner. Feel a lot better now I've had the thing (sorry boat) running Tony

UPDATE No 2 Many thanks for all the suggestions especially Richard and Chris. Was able to get to the boat this evening to try some more. Checked wire to back of alternator - only one spade terminal found - the alt is in such a tight spot couldnt see any identification even with a mirror on a rod Rechecked wiring and at this stage fed the solenoid signal terminal on the ignition switch with 12v jumper straight from battery +ve. Solenoid clicked in and starter motor turned engine over. Disconnected jumper and then removed thick cable going to plugs from ignition switch. Tried ignition switch again and this time the solenoid operated when switch was turned to Start position with engine being turned over. It therefore seems that the plugs or their feeder wire was pulling the 12v down. (I had noticed that cable warmed up appreciably after continued operation of the ignition switch but earlier put this down to normal heavy current draw. Disconnected this cable and substituted a jump lead - no difference. Measured resistance from top of plugs (all connected together) to earth and engine block (the same). Measures 9 Ohms. Am I getting somewhere? Could the no 2 plug which was seen issuing small wispy smoke previously have failed short cct. The only niggle is Chris's point about how it could do anything without the relay operating but there may be a pathe when switch is in itts full stant position. Is there an in situ test I can do without a DC clamp meter. Looking at their positions re the manifold I dont relish taking them out! Tony

Hello Richard Thank you for the reply. I will give it some thought and tackle (attack) it again at the weekend Tony

UPDATE First, many thanks for all the advice - I dont feel I am searching in the wilderness without a buddy anymore! Put jump lead around the master switch - switched to start - no go, panel lights dimmed. Jump lead from battery +ve to solenoid +ve in - switched to start - no go, lights dimmed. Bridged solenoid big terminals with (old) screwdriver - starter motor operated and turned over engine. Removed thin wire feed at solenoid and fed solenoid with 12v from battery +ve terminal - solinoid pulled in and operated starter motor. So: Solenoid and starter motor appear to work. Voltage at end of thin wire to solenoid 6.5v when ignition switch at Start position. Small amount of smoke again observed at #2 plug again - see first Post. Battery still measures some 11v when switch is held in Start position. Heater relay still inoperative - measuring some 2.5v across coil terminals. I'm at a loss to understand where I'm losing all those volts! If a plug had failed short cct would that pull down the voltage? Voltage drop across ignition switch at posn 1 and 2 is 0.3v. I suppose some of the above is good news but am no nearer a running boat. Grateful for any suggestions on where next - cant find the scuttle cocks! Tony

Most grateful for all the advice. Will go and try as suggested. One point re the master cut off switch the voltage drop across it is less than 0.25 v but I take the point that so will concentrate on it, the starter and solenoid. I will let you know what happens. Tony

Hello and thank you for replies and welcome. Yes, Richard, there is c.12v at solenoid and good earth (negligible resistance) from -ve battery terminal to engine block. Strange (to me) that it is the -ve line which passes through the master switch. Does a u/s solenoid prevent the plug heater relay from working? I cannot see any reason why it should but I'm a canal boat novice. Thank you for helping - I'm at a loss and professional on-board help seems to cost £80 an hour so its down to me to sort with very welcome guidance Tony

Hello and thank you for replies and welcome. Yes, Richard, there is c.12v at solenoid and good earth (negligible resistance) from -ve battery terminal to engine block. Strange (to me) that it is the -ve line which passes through the master switch. Does a u/s solenoid prevent the plug heater relay from working? I cannot see any reason why it should but I'm a canal boat novice. Thank you for helping - I'm at a loss and professional on-board help seems to cost £80 an hour so its down to me to sort with very welcome guidance Tony

Hello - is there anyone out there who can help please: The boat is a Water Bug from Springer Engr. The engine is a 3 cyl Kubota. All was well - out at the weekends. Two weeks ago went to run up the engine and switched to heater(plugs) on, counted to 15 and switched to start- and nothing! Symptoms: Fully charged battery, master switch OK with negligeable voltage drop. All wires and cables checked and tightened, cleaned. On first position of ignition switch buzzer sounds but plug relay does not pull in. Tested relay coil - with 12v operates fine. BUT only 2.5v across terminals 85 and 86! The wiring to this goes to back of alternator then up to ignition switch. Ignition switch voltage drop across terminals is less than 0.3v. Engine will not turn over when switch is turned to Start and No sound from Solenoid, panel lights dim. Battery voltage drops but stays above 10.75 volts on this load. Had small amount of smoke issuing from no.2 plug area! There is only one relay - for the plug heat. There are no fuses in any of the primary circuits, only in the leisure ccts (second battery not connected at this time). Engine Stop is mechanical and fully off. So two problems or are they connected? Grateful for any help as have now spent two weekends getting nowhere. Tony