Strads

A RHD drive hand start!... Ive seen a pair of DM3 (on the same day) with opposing set up's, one left hand drive and one right, "Paths" round the engine room also varied to avoid it being an "issue"... both engines had different gearboxes. but having seen 12 different dm3 installations ive only seen 3 with the same gearbox... also the photo's showing the decompression levers are different from most RN's ive seen/used.

Tony, you like me are able to read, note, comment according to how you find/see things,,, that is what I did, without being rude, I except that my experience may not be as wide as some, but also certain individuals claim to been there and sorted it when they havnt.. either,,,

Tony,, it may appear that way to you, but having owned one for 17 years and seen quite a few.. (probably 40 plus in engine holes and knowing the Dave at RN no one has had an engine powered bilge pump. Thanks,, just show's there is a variant out there,,, they do look like non original pumps etc, but may well be from as new in time my oil pump (RN ) is in that approx location..

what a load of bolleaux.. rather depends on how weird your boat and its equipment actually is. as in what RN fitting are you twatting on about?? bilge pump is just that, they dont generally use the engine,,,,,,

Ummh, A big question as to why you would strip out the hand start just because it makes some noise.. To remove the chain in the hand start arm is piece of work,,, not sure I'd rush and do it,,, On my engine the decompression lever means you turn the engine over - by hand using the fly wheel is relatively easy, maybe an initial knack but I have also started mine by rotating the engine flywheel... once she is turning close the decomp levers and on the next compression she runs.... Mines a DM3 - but all the bits notes apply to a dm2,,,,

Again Ive been absent for a few weeks, but having discussed with several well known RN engineers and dave at the "factory"... when cold getting 60-80 il/sq in is norm but as it warms it drops to the 15psi (give or take) and runs like that when warm all day... As important is too use a good sae 30 oil,, and check the oil level every morning before starting ad top up sump if required... most weeks when on trips, i spend a couple of mimutes checking oil pipes are all tight and secure..

A DM3 will also start and run on one cyl,, the issue is as much about gearbox type, size of boat & that load.. mine would just move on one,,, very easy on 2 cyls and on 3 will pull most people backwards... guess simplest thing would be disconnect fuel pipe and insert a blacker into the fuel manifold,,, ditto decompression lever,,,, just unbolt..

Just awoken to see this thread subject and being a DM3 owner for 12 years or so, will add my feedback. I understood from talking to several owners and Dave Bixter that DM engines were rated at 22hp for a DM2 and 33hp for a DM3. I would suggest that these are understated and real world numbers unlike some more modern, higher revving items,, Performance depends on boat style, weight (only just) and water conditions, my boat moves well at low revs,, eg @ 100 pm. but can also blast along at @ 1200 if required..at the top end she does indeed perform well, likewise fuel use also reflects use,, gearbox type/prop size etc etc I have had to replace a few parts and strip the engine.. in some senses parts are indeed expensive, but if rated over say 30 years among running costs then she has not been expensive to run at all. All parts have been available of the shelf! from RN, I wouldn't say cheap but rather good value, I've known some others replace parts 2 or 3 times with other makes,,,the associated costs being some what more overall than mine, but also recognise that you are buying an 80 year old working item,,,steady checking and maintenance is key sound wise a dm3 is softer and rather pleasant on the ears,,,

sue. hi in reading I assume you have a mechcanical water pump - there is a small grease cup - i assume you check/fill daily as required,,, I didnt realise that and mine let rip,,, and self destructed,,, I replaced with and electrical central heating pump (small marine type) wasnt that cheap but 8 years since,, without knowing how yours is plumbed in,,, i cant be specific,,, but mine was a dm3,,, so sympathise cheers john

May try and pop in for nod of respect, have the jumper and Lincoln is moored there.

Any one know if any boatyards or similar are buying narrow boats currently ?? I have Barry Hawkins Nortwich Trader which I may need to sell and would probably not want to go through having folks turn up at the mooring. She has an RN DM3, runs well and in generally good order. Thanks John

Sounds more like interpretation... and how many hours a week is a user thing.. but @ 100 hours,, oil filter may easily last a change or two, oil filter metal gauze is course scale,,, antifreeze in coolant as a new block is eye wateringly expensive...

Mattt is referring to "kyle", She is now up for sale - I guess Brian wants to move on. I also have the same filters fitted and would suggest that putting the oil from your own engine into the fuel is fine,, better lubed etc. The engine dosnt notice a small amount. With larger percentages it will on some days "smoke " more, Cost is 2 filters @ £20 a year. saving @ 400 a year. over 3 years,.. with the need for new injectors every couple of years, if they wont blow clear at the factors. I would recommend a 25% use as no issue, oddly enough people gave free fuel...!! BUT don't do it without having these fine mesh filters.

Would agree a classic sae 30, every 100 hours or so, check levels daily!

I can only throw a comment back. Firstly RN have over the last 3 years provided all parts required, gears, head, rings, grommets, gaskets, bolts by return of post or off the self. Your comment re them not having something available appear ill informed. Certain items may not be off the shelf, but Dave will invariably try and help and even manufacture. What then puts people off is the "price" for custom made. There is a cost to older engines, but non availability is not the issue. As too maintenance. a Dm2 and 3 are similar. change engine oil every 100 hours or so, suggest oil filter at the same time. Check every day before departure that level is in range Fuel filter - again once a year, more if you do longer trips. Check tappets several times a year. Air filter - clean and check the gauze, Walter / antifreeze - check level daily, change annually Water pump - depending on type = grease all bits daily before setting off is the best advise.. I do have the RN manual. its not a big document !

Folks, Its been a while, but tried searching for an answer but couldn't see anything specific. My boat has 24, (2 x 12v) per pair, I have a victron invertor charge 3000x/70/24 which I believe is working ok. I recently purchased a new pair of starter batteries (leisure type) and also wired these in, That makes 3 pairs of leisure batteries wired in with one pair used to power the starter. I have moved the boat onto a new mooring with mains power, and knowing that the older two pairs were near flat, plugged in, at the same time the new pair where found to be flat (a surprise as used twice about 6 weeks ago) When I installed the new pair there were no issues and no surprises. On returning to the boat yesterday greeted with terrible smell ( stink bomb type) thought the loo had an issue but that smelt fine Then investigated, having opened engine room hatches when we entered.. to find the older 2 pairs of batterys were warm and the other hot. The hot pair were sealed type, one was hissing (like a gently heated kettle). Immediately turned of the mains, then disconnected (carefully) all the batteries this led to them cooling and the hissing to stop. Copper pipes around the engine room have taken on a silver hew and 2 very close to the batteries almost look burnt. The questions are: Any idea what might have happened? what has caused the pipe "staining". At the weekend I will carefully remove from the position to inspect. ( I need to get rubber gloves eyewear and cat litter in case of leaks ) I can then check to see any has spilt/failed and test volts etc. I have no issue changing failed/knackered kit, but any suggestions on what to check are appreciated. Many thanks John

If you still need help, you could try the chaps at Marine Engine services, at Cowley... a short stroll from where you are.. Peter Thompson or Chris B, often on here should be able to provide lister servicing parts, oil etc But as others have said, check all the obvious as well, and has this occurred before, and when was it last serviced,, - clues to why it may have been playing up........

We have a composting loo, for last 5 years plus.. we use normal compost but very light dusting once used.. ours is an ll in one, fluids and solids in a big plastic base. there is a very slight whiff occasionally,,, it vents through a plastic 4 inch di pipe that has a fan blowing from the loo base... it has 2 speed selections to help the evaporation.. our pipe exits under one of the exisiting mushrooms !! less metal to cut, the fan drys the roof on a wet day and it smells more on the outside than inside.. a hint of fullers earth, inside the loo dosnt smell, no one has complained about the fitting since new, and having used other boats, with drop through and cassettes both smell more.. we also have a mascarator pump out to a separate tank, again, no smell,, except immediately after its pumped out, when the contents are fully disturbed,, it lingers about 5-10 minutes,,, so try it, some venting will sort the issue, go for it!

Sell them,,,, surplus to need due to wrong size....

And as those who saw us at Ricky know, the bloody fuel timing slipped.... eliminated the injector pump by getting that checked at the factory (thanks Jamie) eliminated the woodruff key being missing by stripping the engines back down at ricky on saturday and rebuilding on sunday,, Got her re started last weekend but the fuel cam timing still needs atweek, but at least we are running,, thanks to my grease monkey, mary for her help,,, ah the joys of a vintage lump

After the rock and roll at Ricky, she could do with some ballast to lessen the top heavy wobble, but would spoil the dancing fun in the tug of war. thanks we enjoyed the afternoon, We used bricks,,, plus side was we unloaded what we didn't need and a local odd job builder took them away @ 2 pallets worth.. paving slabs also a sensible alternative,,,, and a free patio if it dosnt work,, see you soon

I agree with luctor and the obvious,, If CRT have terms and conditions then they are there, ignoring them will probably Piss them off and put you on the wrong side re future goodwill, Have you actually phone them for a chat and explained the details?? They will probably advise you on the best option, and you might get a chance to negotiate a limited licence... As ever a number of folks think its fine to ignore the rules and regs, and wonder why CRT then impose rule changes "they" don't like, in most cases re don't suit them, how ever would benefit a larger user group, which they don't take into the bigger picture,,

funny I started on twin wheels,,, fluid drive gearbox, turn one way forward, reverse by 270deg end of travel.. so a quick turn you can change direction without touching throttle wheel,,, which has @ 3 turns from tickover to full belt.. @1200rpm. the morse controls I have used have all had more issues re friction, engaging, The kelvin K2 I used for a week was also twin wheels,, but a touch more interesting when changing directions,,, I suspect that after the first two hours you will wonder what the issue was.. bit like swapping from manual to automatic cars....

Firstly = Bulls bridge the dry dock at tescos is a non working example.... so would ignore that suggestion. there are also dry docks at winkwell and pitstone, which has a caveat on size/depth.. but like most only handle one boat at a time... which is normal, and you can only work on one at a time, I know logic says if both are a dock at the same time you could do both, but would you...? I'd suggest planning to get them turnover mid week and you can the do the second one,, Depends on exactly the work you need to do,,,

Well its been a while - a long one, but last Friday we (Wife & I) got the dm3 fired up,.. (twice,,) for a few minutes.. a few fuel cam/injector timing points to sort, which was down on sunday with help from Jamie (ex RN Daventry) who helped check and sort a few turns and squeeks with the fly wheel to get the timing improved.. End result was a short trip to Ricky yesterday to check she is ok. Most things ok, but drinking fuel a bit too much so some further fine tuning needed, but we are "mobile" under our own power again... the smiles in the sun yesterday we exchanged were long and wide, like the beers drunk last night to celebrate.. cheers