BWM

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F272957458319 Armstrong two pot.

Sounds likely, but when the carbon was removed the flame returned to normal- but it may be that I dislodged whatever had caused it at the same time..

I used to get a yellow flame on our paloma pilot light, the cause was a sooty build up of carbon around the base of the pilot flame.

The downsides of cork tiles are that they are quite often slippery when wet, can attract ground in dirt and worst of all, are a nightmare to remove if you need to replace them.

On our last boat we discovered that the wood below had begun to decay, after trying various sealing methods I discovered the leak was entering through a tiny pin hole in a weld at the bottom of the door surround-amazing how much water found it's way in through something you could barely see.

Unless the picture is distorted, The range in the back cabin looks to have had it. The top appears bowed and the lift out hotplates, etc don' seem flush, and what looks like a repair to the smoke box (bottom of the flue assembly). This will be expensive to replace.

These appear to be Chinese security lights being offered for sale as something they are not, awful to encounter when boating.

That sounds worth a go, I went for the smallest to increase the rpm, but it may be more productive to use a larger one to avoid the problems i'm experiencing.

Shuttering ply is nowhere near as rigid as wpb, and I would guess be more prone to vibration. As a base for t+g that may not be a problem. Below the gunwale 18mm will be an asset when fixing anything to it. There are definitely different grades available as others have mentioned, as it is basically designed as a temporary product.

Here are some sizes, Not a lot of difference between the 6kg and 13kg but the price of the smaller one is only a little less than the 13. Some other gas companies sell an 11kg which is lower in height but not easy to obtain in all areas. Cylinder Type/Size Height Diameter Butane 4.5kg 340 mm 240 mm Butane 6kg BBQ Gas 314 mm 306 mm Butane 7kg 495 mm 256 mm Butane 15kg 580 mm 318 mm Propane 3.9kg 340 mm 240 mm Propane 5kg Patio Gas 314 mm 306 mm Propane 6kg 495 mm. 256 mm Propane 13kg 580 mm 315 mm

This is the set up as it is, The belt is cleaned regularly and isn't as dirty as it looks.

I haven't come across Z section, I believe mine is A section-standard fan belt profile. I've tightened it several times and loose I doubt it would achieve anything!

I believe so, it is the fibre type and seem to remember direction markers when I fitted it, sometimes wonder if the leather type would be better.

No, it's hand start. I'm trying to visualise your set up, why was there a twist, and where was the alternator situated?

Due to the belt pulley being behind the large flywheel on my Jp3, I have been using fenner link belting to drive the alternator. I'm beginning to wonder if there are any alternatives as it doesn't seem to grip as well as a conventional rubber belt-even when adjusted fairly tight, very soon afterwards it feels slack again. This situation compounds the low rpm of the Jp, and charging via the alternator is not good. Any suggestions?

I think this suggestion is correct, as the inverter is feeding the 240v connecting power to the three pin plug, when removed from the inverter would supply power to your boat. Not an ideal situation but one i've seen before.

Appears they have used the registration date instead of the build date.

Thanks for clearing that up, it looked like a heath Robinson rig, and didn't look like it should be there!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263332094990 Industrial Jp3 for sale, Not sure about the improvised hand start though! Appears to use a water pump.. Actual engine has the appearance of minimal use, unusual drilling in the flywheel.

Thanks for the picture, I was struggling to visualise it. I can understand the appeal as it's certainly unusual.

What's a serpentine handle?

Fair comment, i'd just assumed that because no name, etc had been stated by the op that it would be a standard forged windlass. I must check some I found on a vacant mooring on our site, as the handles furthest away from square end were very rusty I didn't bother checking for names!

It also depends on the condition, If it's very heavily pitted I wouldn't think there would be much value in it. Isn't there someone on the forum who occasionally lists them on eBay? I seem to remember that he sold a job lot of around a dozen that went for just over £100.

One expense that won't be covered is the potentially much higher cost of upkeep and preventative maintenance, which could be difficult to fund on a limited income.

This is definitely the way to go, we used blasted and painted steel for our rebottoming/ refooting work.