Tony Brooks

First of all Google does not recognise Lister Petter PW4A48, but returns hits for an LPWx where x is the number of cylinders. Google also shows LPW lift pump as mechanical, so turning the ignition on will do nothing to help bleeding. I think that you need to clarify exactly what engine you have, you also need to clarify if you have a mechanical or electrical lift pump. If you don't know, then post photos of your engine showing both SIDES so we can identify the lift pump and advise. Bleeding engines is not usually particular difficult, and those Lister engines seem to bleed automatically, but I would not do that if the lift pump has a priming lever. I think we await the clarifications.

Please explain why the quote of the question means he did not want information about spare hoses.

Thanks, but no thanks. I lost too much work with encrypted hard drives when they or the computer crashed, so I avoid encryption if at all possible. Anyway, my time and hence the site's days are numbered. (nothing bad at present, just old age) To be honest, in a number of respects the site is out of date and needs a fair bit of revision, with some stuff like CAN bus and lithium battery system where I don't have sufficient experience or knowledge. I can no longer summon up much enthusiasm, not helped by the way a few posters here treat my best efforts to help others. I have to ensure my wife/children will not be left with trying to close the site down when the time comes, so I must eventually shut it down while I am still able.

The tractor moulded hoses are very likely to be specific to the tractor, but you might be lucky enough to find a car spares place (not Halfords) who will try to match them up. Also, hoses to and from the skin tank and calorifier will NOT be Beta or JD parts, so a decent chandler should stock them by the metre. Filters and fan bets should be available on-line or from car spares places, as long as you have the filter number. they c n be cross-referenced to another filter/belt manufacturer.

FWIW, I was told yesterday that Chrome flagged my website as unsafe. How the blankity blank can a text website with absolutely no way of interacting with it, apart from browsing, can be "unsafe" is beyond me. Especially as Chrome is Google, who in my view are one of the biggest exploiters of individuals privacy on this planet. I am sure it is the vested interests trying to force every site to be HTTPS, rather than HTTP. If I were a conspiracy theorist, I might conclude Google are flagging it as dangerous because it does not carry their adverts. Firefox makes it relatively easy to set an exception, so it does not flag HTTP "dangerous site" messages once set. If Chrome wants to play silly beggars than as far as I am concerned I will save myself about £200 a year in hosting and domain fees and delete the site. Thanks to our member, who I think is @Redhawk106, who contacted me and kindly offered to sort it out, but I am too old to jump through hoops imposed by third parties like Google and other browser vendors.

I can see some benefit if it is a totally separate system from the domestic water system. It could be used for toilet flushing, general cleaning and cloths washing provided it was got very hot first. It would save a little tank filling, but as for cooking, drinking and washing up, I think it is asking for health problems. I would remind the OP that many years ago Thames Water was reported to have done checks in domestic properties, and they found that those with plumbed in water filters had worse quality water than those without because of nasties build p in the filter and the filters not being changed frequently enough. I also know what I found when I removed one of the ceramic filter drinking water taps when we bought our boat - lucky SWMBO did not see it. If the OP is intent on using canal water for general use that he investigates ultraviolet sterilization, but dread to think about the electrical demands.

The flow can be reduced the next time the boat is out of the water by cutting two or three discs of rubber with a hole in the centre to fit around the rudder stock. Then cut through, one side to the centre and slide them around the stock above the blade with the slots 180 to 120 degrees apart. Push them up against the swim plate. However, as David says, not uncommon and nor really a problem. Not if the tube has been properly welded to the plate work under the bearing housing. I would be more concerned about how well the housing mounting bolts are sealed in the tank top.

At one mouth there is/was a big notice saying No powered craft. If it was a practical proposition, the OP would have been told many posts ago. Like all rivers the river bed is owned by the surrounding landowners so the same problem in respect of moorings on the Thames applies, and as the Cherwell has not been used by powered craft as far as I know, the riparian owners are likely to get very upset if someone turned up and moored a huge boat on their land and then tramped across it to a road. . As far as I know, unlike the Thames, there is no public right of navigation. The same applies to the other tributaries in that area

I suspect that he has no idea about what controls hull speed on a displacement boat, but going up the Trent with the tide I did sustain 10 mph on a satnav for a while - probably 5 mph tide and 5mph through the water.

And as the pump will be on the other side of the filters, exactly how do you think that will help. It will make the delay until the pump cuts in even longer. You will get an initial spurt of water without the filter restriction, but it will soon drop to what you have now, then it will say the same until you turn the tap off, so the new accumulator recharges. Open the tap and the initial spurt, dropping to what you have now will just repeat. I suppose that if you fitted an enormous second accumulator, it could supply a lot more water until the pressure dropped enough for the pump to cut in, but you have mentioned space considerations. So if you don't have room for a second set of filters, I can't see you have room for a giant accumulator.

FWIW the "standard" difference that is acceptable between cells is 0.03 while Lucas used to say 0.025, basically you look OK for now but with a suspect more badly sulphated cell. "Boiling" a cell should not "dilute" the acid. It would strengthen because it would be just water driven off (probably plus a very small amount of acid mist) it so when you toped up to the correct level and allowed the liquids to mix the strength should be normal. It is far more likely that some sulphur from the acid is now locked in the plates as unrecoverable lead sulphate.

Two or more sets of what you already have with their inlets fed by a common pipe and their outlets going to a common pipe. That way each may restrict the flow, but you get two or more times the flow by the parallel pathway. Hence, the pressure pre-filters drops faster so the pump cuts in sooner.

I think what you mean is that the resistance of the filters is so high, that when you turn the tap on the flow from the tap takes too long to drop the pressure in the accumulator and pre the filters, enough to make the pump cut in. I expect the cycling period with an open tap has increased as well. I very much doubt a higher pump cut out will help much because I think it is resistance to flow in the filters. The answer is to reduce the filters' resistances but as the OP talks about using canal water a larger pore size would be inadvisable, so all that leaves is one or more sets of filter piped in parallel.

I agree with that, except the way most narrowboats trim (stern down) and the way the tanks are constructed I think the tank would need a sloping bottom to bring any water and muck to the front f the tank where the drain would be. That means more costs.

That was the initial problem then, much as many of us suggested.