cuthound

Give me 10 minutes and I will go on the boat and take a photo.

As others have explained that is the thermocouple, which is the flame failure device. It needs holding in for 30-90 seconds after the stove is lit so that fuel can flow until the thermocouple is hot enough to stay open on its own. The fuel drops into the bottom of the stove, near the "L" shaped plunger, which is vigorously pulled in and out and twisted at the same time occasionally, to clear burnt crud to allow oil to enter the stove. If you take out the catalyst, turn the regulator to setting 2 and press the thermocouple overide, you should see oil entering and gradually flowing over the floor of the stove. When the pool of oil is about the size of a 50p piece, release the thermocouple overide and add 2 capfuls of meths to the pool of oil. Put the catalyst back into position and drop a lit match in and wait until the flames begin to die off. Press the thermocouple overide for 30-90 seconds, then release it. The stove should stay lit. After 15 minutes turn the regulator to the desired position (usually between 1&3) and away you go. It is an easy DIY job to change the thermocouple if necessary.

As the tail current tends to increase as batteries age I would say original badged capacity.

I had almost the opposite experience when we were having the kitchen refitted in our old house. Being a project manager at the time, I was used to my package managers using daily snagging lists to keep contractors on track. I came home from work to find worktop not level, the hob mounted at a slight angle plus numerous over small things, so I left a snagging list for the fitters benefit Later the next day I got a call from the fitters boss. He was irate and said in 25 years of fitting kitchens No one had ever criticised his fitters work. I calmly explained to him the purpose of the daily snagging list was to allow his fitter to correct small errors as they occurred, but if he preferred I could leave it until they had finished, when it would be necessary to dismantle the whole kitchen in order to correct some of the snags. All of a sudden he agreed to me inspecting their work every evening and leaving a daily snagging list.

Ah, but you have taken the first step on the journey.

Thanks, I thought the gas system needed to be proven to be leak free, so I needed a BSC bod capable of unscrewing the manometer test points without blowing himself up...

Thanks Richard, I'll give him a call next year.

Shocking

Below are Instructions on how to test a GI. I usee the digital multi-meter diode test method. Note that some GI's use only a single diode in each direction, so give lower reading some friends 0.9 - 1.0 volts.

Some surveyors are morev thorough than others. I used Craig Allen, and made sure I was present for the survey. Not only did I learn a lot about the boat and it's systems, but he removed skirting to inspect the condition and type of the insulation, the wiring and the pipework behind them. He also opened the weedhatch to check for corrosion as well as checking the operation of everything on board. He threw in a free BSC, found a fault that enabled me to knock £2k off the price and then gave me a small rebate because the boat was cleaner this most, so he didn't have to lie in an oily bilge. Top man who I would use again.

Did you have a galvanic isolator (GI) or isolation transformer (IT) fitted? Of not, any difference in the earth potential between your boat, and any other boat, metal piling or the landlines earth connection will cause a small current to to flow between the two and cause galvanic corronion. Even if you have a GI or IT it should be regularly checked for correct operation to ensure your safety and in the case of the GI to ensure the hull is still protected against stray currents.

Is he Gas Safe registered? My BSC is due next year and I donthave a bubble tester fitted.

Or run the engine whilst she uses the electric hair dryer, so the load comes off the alternator not the battery.

12.2 volts on a wet lead acid battery is about 50% charged without any load on the battery, so needs charging because to maximise battery life you shouldn't discharge below 50%.

Kerosene is thinner, (28 second oil rather than red diesel which is 35 second oil, as measured through a British Standard orifice). It also burns cleaner. However, whether your Ebersplutter will need recalibrating to run properly on the thinner oil (my Kabola Old Dutch drip feed stove does) I cannot say. NMEA will probably give you the definitive answer.

No, there must be hundreds of surveys undertaken on the cut each year and the only tale of doom that regularly turns up is Alan De E's. Things can go wrong with surveyers missing things, but a major failure will be very rare.

Not for low bridges either...

Lol, however I don't think the "starvationers" used in the Duke of Bridgewater's mine, which were the predecessors to narrowboats used horse. They were propelled by men. I guess their predecessors would ultimately be dug out canoes.

In winter I pour a kettle full of boiling water down the weed hatch before plunging my hands in, it makes the cut water surprisingly warm for couple of minutes, enabling you to feel things with your fingers. Repeat as necessary for longer jobs.

Mine trad stern is quite social as it has slightly wider and deeper hatch, allowing two to be comfortable, one in front of the other.

I quite like the free electric band... https://g.co/kgs/FMKwpW

Then there was the post asking about the incinerator toilets. However I think that consumed something in the order of 100Ah per day or a 13kg gas bottle for the gas fired ones!

Maybe he's old? I find that time passes quicker the older I get. Presumably because as I get older each day represents a smaller percentage of my life.

I think it is sensible to carry spares to help you continue your journey as quicky possible. Mind you that 4 cylinder Beta JD3 engine mentioned in this thread was a bit over the top...