smileypete

The rule of thumb for safe cable loading is "amps divided by three", for voltage drop with 12V loads this will also allow up to 5 metres separation between batts and loads. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=site%3Acanalworld.net+"amps+divided+by+three"

I'd say 1500W up, to be on the safe side, especially with a cheapo inverter. For a ballpark figure unplug the fridge for a while so the compressor goes cold, then measure the resistance between the L and N terminals on the plug with the thermostat turned to 'max'. If the fridge is just for the odd tub of marge, butter, bacon milk and stuff it might not be worth buying a £££££ inverter.

Well is it sorted now, if so how? Or have you given up?

It does look like you've probably misread the manual there, it looks like they quote cable sizes for distance separation between charger and batts, in which case you want 25mm2. Usual rule of thumb is 'amps divided by three' so 60/3 = 20, rounded up to the next size of 25mm2. This would be good for 5m separation between batts and loads on 12V, and half that distance for charge sources. Easy way to work out volt drops is that 'amps divided by three' gives a volt drop of 50mV per metre of cable, as 1mm2 copper has a resistance of 0.017 ohms.

Something else to check is the flue and especially any baffle plate is clean.

Colder flue ie single skin? Also the wind can suck air out of vents and small gaps in the windows.

Yeah my bad all the branches near me say available to collect... next day... Still an extra day's wait isn't too bad.

Screwfix do an S4U which looks to be basically the same thing, in stock at all the branches near me, plus it needs a bit less vertical depth: https://mcalpineplumbing.com/traps/macvalve/s4uc-90deg-bend-female-inlet-nut-x-bsp-male-connector https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-s4u-compression-bsp-connections-bend-90-32mm/4022v

If you can isolate the new ones too, then the old ones could run the loads, plus push some eq current into the new ones for a few hours (via a converter). Use a 12V power supply for DC loads when on shore power I s'pse, they're surprisingly cheap these days. Then just leave the lithuims as they are, maybe top them up if a little low.

And how much does your travelpower cost brand new?

I expect the big issue with trojan type batts is getting enough voltage to fully charge and eq them in winter temperatures, bog standard alts and chargers won't do this. If the batt bank can be made splittable such that half can be isolated and then fully charged/eq'd, it opens up a lot more options, but it's tooo much hassle for most people.

Another option is a McAlpine S12C then a McAlpine MA15, both available from PlumbCenter: https://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/product/mcalpine-s12c-bsp-coupling-11-4-x-1/ https://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/product/mcalpine-ma15-washing-machine-nozzle-1-45deg/ https://mcalpineplumbing.com/sites/default/files/uploads/drawings/S12C.pdf https://mcalpineplumbing.com/sites/default/files/uploads/drawings/MA15.pdf OK it's 45° not 90° and the hose tail is 20mm not 19mm, but probably close enough, and at £4.89 all in, so it's within the £5 budget! Yippeee! OK means a a wait of a day or so for click n collect, then a traipse to the local branch (usually somewhere near a screwfix), but not bad going, handy for cc'ers... TLDR: McAlpine has some obscure but handy bits which are nonetheless somewhat available: https://mcalpineplumbing.com/plastic-chrome-fittings/sundry-fittings-bsp-couplings

OK see the post below with the McAlpine S1, £2.49 gets you a 90° bend..

Just to add, if depth is limited and you don't want a water seal, the best bet may be a McAlpine S1 going onto your Ebay female 1-1/4 BSP stepped hose tail: https://mcalpineplumbing.com/plastic-chrome-fittings/sundry-fittings-bsp-couplings/s1c-90deg-bend-bsp-male-thread-x-bsp-coupling-nut https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/McAlpine-S1-1-90-Bend-32mm/152936726502 https://mcalpineplumbing.com/sites/default/files/uploads/drawings/S1.pdf https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Female-BSP-Threaded-Hosetail-Barbed-Fitting-Thread-Connector-Pond-Caravan-Boat/182446571090

It's not hard, there's plenty of bits out there, just not at a budget of less than five pounds say. Would have thought one standard way of doing it is go from a standard trap to a BSP thread then on to a stepped hose tail (or even a BSP reducer and hose tail:) https://mcalpineplumbing.com/plastic-chrome-fittings/multifit-waste-fittings/s29c-straight-connector-multifit-x-bsp-female-thread https://mcalpineplumbing.com/sites/default/files/uploads/drawings/S29.pdf https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Male-BSP-Threaded-Hosetail-Barbed-Fitting-Thread-Connector-Pond-Caravan-Boat/192125322282 It's not a bad idea to have a selection of BSP reducers 1-1/4" - 1" - 3/4" - 1/2" - 1/4" as spares, say a fiver from BES, as they can help get out of a whole host of problems.

Maybe do a heinous bodge with silicone for now, then some time later a great way of doing it may show up. I've had decent success with the better rated more specialist sellers on Ebay and Aliexpress. The chrome trap and silicone elbow looks good if the latter can be hidden by panelling.

Loads of discussion of lithiums with real world experience on the lumpy water forums, eg this should keep anyone busy for a good few hours: http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/lifepo4-batteries-discussion-thread-for-those-using-them-as-house-banks-65069.html Something that came out of a quick skim is that some are considering lithiums as a kind of substitute for an inboard genny, which makes the price a bit more bearable.

Cool. Now listening to:

The other way was comparing the weight of a small volume of deionised water in a measuring cap to the same of battery acid on some cheap digital scales, and working out the electrolyte strength from there. I s'pose you could use salt solution instead of the water. A large syringe would give a more exact volume and be less likely to spill, but a small measuring cap with good markings can be surprisingly repeatable Would have thought constant current at C/30 would generate some nice bubbles.

ISTR I used saturated salt solution to check a hydrometer: 'The density of a saturated solution at 25°C is 1.202 g/ml.' https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=saturated+salt+solution+density

Another way to get an idea of SoC is resting voltage: http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq4.htm#ocv_soc Like I say, don't worry (just don't neglect them either).

I'd not worry about it, just use normally and try to do some EQ on solar throughout the summer. 1.250 SG is about 85% charged at 10°C, so cell 5 as lost about 15% of capacity. Not ideal but not the end of the world either. http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq4.htm#soc I've had some good success desulphating and it's not overly complicated, but it's not an easy off the shelf answer either. Most boaters probably prefer to just get new batts and be done with it when things have gone a little too far.

For a rough rule of thumb for tail current 'stabilising' sufficiently I'd look for a fall of less than a third over one hour, coming out to less than 1-2% of batt capacity. Of course this depends on correct charge voltage and healthy batts. I'm also open to changing my mind based on real world measurements. Once a reasonable baseline is found this can be used without needing to do the above every time, maybe check every couple of months as batt condition slowly changes and seasonal temperatures changes too.

NOx is highly localised around main roads however: http://www.londonair.org.uk/london/asp/annualmaps.asp