TheBiscuits

I prefer any roller or brush that has someone else holding it! More accurately, I tend to use a 4" gloss roller with a brush for the fiddly bits. Last time we did 3 boats consecutively with all 3 of us helping each other.

I was going to suggest exactly that. It's around £350 per person to do the full Inland Waterways Helmsman course, but if you are realistically thinking of spending £80,000+ on a boat it's not a bad course to try first!

No it states 2 ranges : 10v to 14v for the 12v version or 20v to 28v for the 24v version. It's laid out badly though. Yes, they are designed as vehicle heaters, so the normal voltage from your alternator is fine. If your alternator is going much above 14.4v get it fixed! Note Alan's manual also states the controller will shut off the heater if the voltage is too high for it, so if it's running it's happy.

Replace your thermostat with a working one!

I like cynicism, so greenied. It's actually a better technical option, but understandably more sensitive. The bathtub weir would have a larger runoff crest than the existing failed runoff did, and take a better flow path than the cheaper sailing club route. So yeah, sailing club it will be, especially as it's CRT land leased to the sailing club ...

Thanks Alan. Now I just need an appropriate heat exchanger and some plumbing fittings. I already have the pump installed on the CH circuit. Oh, and I need to move all the crap out of the engine room to get to it. Probably not this week then!

Yes, that's what I'm going to do when my round tuit arrives. Nice for those chilly days in spring and autumn (or even summer this year!) though, and it's waste heat from diesel that's been burned already. Greener and cheaper, what's not to like? I suppose a lot of it depends on individual cruising/mooring patterns. It's not much cop if one tends to spend a few days stationary, but useful if one tends to cruise most days.

I'd argue against that, but on the understanding the heat exchanger is not in the calorifier loop, but is instead on the skin tank loop. Only "waste" heat that would be going to the skin tank and into the canal/river gets used for the CH circuit and the engine/calorifier loop maintains it's correct working temperature. I've not done it (yet) but I got the idea from @nicknorman I think.

That's the critical bit, and yes it costs a little bit more but it's false economy not to do it.

What you are describing is pretty much the Tesla Powerwall. 13.5kWh in a box that gets fed mains power and gives it you back on demand. All the complicated stuff happens in a sealed box and is invisible to the end user, and you can daisychain up to 10 of them. I don't know how efficient it would be if you also had to be able to feed it 12v/24v from an alternator, but it would be fine off a travelpower. Sadly they explicitly say they are not suitable for boats. https://www.tesla.com/en_gb/powerwall

Also a "Shed of the Year" entry a few years ago. Ben has usually added a bit to it every time we see him.

Does making it navigable count? Savick Brook / Ribble Link. For that matter, does building the Ribble training wall in an attempt to keep Preston Docks useable count?

It's not very hidden looking at that sign! Next time run it up the kerb and keep left of the sign ...

Do you mean dispose of it, or are you asking how to remove it from your boat?

Yep, that's a mutant hand! Useful though ...

I was about to post exactly this.

It looks like that acoustic foam to me. Look near the fitting, where it's been roughly cut to fit - that's not a skin tank hopefully! It's at the top left of the photo. You can see a shiny brass tail where the intake hose has been removed.

Blocked intake strainer or broken impeller or split hose. Check the entire system for blockages.