Sir Percy

think the area is more important than the thickness - to catch any embers, etc. so would be specific to the stove. i.e., should be a min 'border'. don't know what regs/recs are, tho

Just been on a Facebook thread discussing this: guy has a (proposed) CH system using a back boiler feeding a radiator, but using thermo-siphoning to circulate the water rather than a pump. 1) the system diagrams showed rads with inlet at the top, outlet at the bottom - rather than both pipe connections at the bottom as in normal houselhold system, which had us puzzled until a Google search showed that piping options were available as in your photo. 2) I don't want to worry you unduly, but if water is not circulating you might want to be careful having the stove on. See what others say. Hope it turns out OK.

Going on looks alone, satin might be more forgiving than gloss on a less-than-perfect surface, and would be a nice contrast to the shiny varnished hardwood trim.

Check out this wall shielding design: and see how yours differs from it. E.g., are there good reasons for: not using mineral board? not spacing out from the wall (combustible material)?

photos

It's the minimum air gap that's important. An inch doesn't sound great.

Thanks, mate. 1) I reckon it's not worth the effort - the keelson looks in pretty good condition, rust is mainly beneath the felt to each side of it. Was really wondering if I was affecting the stability of the 'shelf' adversely. 2) Yes, will raise the floor level slightly - what I meant was raising it from where it currently sits on top of the keelson, and battens level with it.

Been taking up the boards in the bow section, for de-rusting, treating and painting. Boards are fixed down to bearers with screws which either have painted/stripped heads or rusted shanks, but the main problem so far is that the water tank support is screwed into the boards which sit directly on top of the keelson. What do you think? I guess I should just cut carefully around it (as I've started) and leave it as is. I wouldn't have thought any lateral support would be needed. I like the amount of head height in the cabin, but I think it would be best to raise the floor just off the metal for a bit of an air gap. Again, any thoughts? Cheers!

As a secondary, 'privacy' layer, you could maybe make a hinged panel and inset 'fragments' of stained glass. I've been working on a set of shutters which are are similar: I got mine off Ebay, others available: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-smal-old-pieces-of-victorian-painted-glass-/262614865823?hash=item3d2510d79f:g:4scAAOSwFV9X0UIL For more light, eithe use more glass or just put some holes in e.g., with a Forstner bit.

http://beforeyoubuyaboat.info

If general opinion is that the standard fitting of vents in the doors works well enough, then maybe I won't worry about it too much. I was wondering how it would work, though - something like this? 1) There used to be a stove in the traditional spot to the rear of the cabin, just above the swim - I'm planning on positioning the new one further forward. 2) The 'low-level' inlet isn't actually that low, it's just at the lowest point of the doors. So that makes me think it may not be that efficient, making a draught at waist height. I don't know if I'm imagining this but I think I've seen some sort of arrangement in the front rooms of Victorian houses where an air brick at the front of the house leads down under the floorboards to a vent near the hearth. Hmm..flat channel ducting, 'periscope' style? I'm going to have a think about that. Cheers. I also hadn't considered the sides. Again, I'll have a think about that, esp. since I'm going to have to have a catflap in one door.

Thanks, but maybe I wasn't being too clear; what I'm after is ideas on where to have the ventilation rather than how much to have of it. So looking at the cabin (sorry about the diagram, grabbed it off the web), I think I'd want high-level vent. far from the the burner and low-level vent. close to it. Not easy to arrange the latter but I'm thinking that I could route it via the bilge... A is the high-level vent. B is the low-level (louvres in the doors), close to B is C - vent in the floor D is vent in the floor close to the base of the stove. in the hope of getting fresh air from B flowing in through the bilge from C to D and warm air flowing through the cabin and out of A.

Hi, I'm after some advice on a rebuild. There's three sections to my 40' boat - aft cabin (galley, seating area) , engine room and forward hold (sleeping area). There's a skylight with fixed ventilation just ahead of the sliding hatch in the cabin, a doghouse in the engine room and ventilation is yet to be added to the forward hold. A woodburner is yet to be installed in the cabin. Heating in the hold likely to be a diesel burner hooked up to the tank in the engine room, but no firm decision yet. I'm going to try to locate the heat sources as close to the centre of the boat as practical. What would be the best location for high level and low level ventilation in relation to the heat sources? Thanks for looking. Cheers!

Got to wonder why - removed after sustaining damage from a leak possibly? Did you ask about it?

A tenner a night doesn't sound extortionate.

Do you have any time in the morning to take care of this? It's only a small area, get up early, wipe it down, paint and then it's got the whole of the day to dry. Better weather coming up.

These guys may be able to sort you out http://www.bedazzled.uk.com/Tunnel_&_Work_Lights.htm

I like your style. That which does not kill you...! Section of a plastic bottle - not a bad idea, worth a go.

That's pretty gross. More so, the thought of any of that crap falling into your cooking. I think I've read a post on here advising against a vent above the cooker because of drips. Do you not have a collar to go between the ceiling and the roof?

They seem to attract a lot more attention from would-be thieves, undesirables and general weirdos who can go from the towpath and onto someone's boat in a single step. I got mugged on a stretch of Camden towpath while walking home on a foggy, dark Autumn evening. Not that late, around 18:00. Something I don't usually do, would have been on my bike but for having an arm in a sling due to a broken shoulderblade. Two guys waiting just after a bridge, I walked past, one of them called out to ask me the time. I turned round, sussed out what was happening, turned and started running. Hampered by the arm, got caught and flung to the ground. The standard advice is to hand over your valuables, but I was so pissed off having just come out of hospital, I started kicking out and shouting for help (the arm was zipped up inside my jacket). This went on until one of them bent over and punched me in the gob to shut me up. To be honest, I was running out of steam and ideas and no-one was coming to help, even though there's a busy road just above the canal. After tossing my card wallet out on the ground, they took it and ran off. Things I thought about afterwards: 1) take the standard advice 2) shout RAPE instead of HELP (still probably won't help in London) 3) get a powerful torch with a 'temporarily blind your assailant' mode

or could have been me

I can only guess that the hardening of the Sikaflex was due to UV exposure, but there appears to be many types of Sikaflex sealant. The ones boasting UV resistance are marine grade and have a price tag to match. 191, I think was the magic number. edit: no, not 191. edit: 295. 40 quid for 300 ml tube online

Well, that's a different matter. Unfortunately, I think there was a thread somewhere here from a female boater feeling unsafe on her own, but on the other side of the coin plenty of threads about improving boat security, and internet, phone coverage etc., (for staying in touch).

'Sikaflex goes hard over time' - ? I posted a question recently about using common or garden oil-based putty, and the consensus was: Sikaflex, the clue's in the name. Question for you - was the Sikaflex painted over, or left exposed to UV?

Try out a 1-dayer boat handling course and see if it's for you. Have you seen Pru Scales at the locks? For the single-hander (male or female) there's a booklet - 'Going It Alone' by Colin Edmondson - a boater's guide to working a narrowboat singlehanded available through the IWA online.