malp

A comment about drilling the shaft, if/when you do it. You will need drill bits suitable for drilling stainless steel, which you'll likely need to get from a proper engineer's merchant, not a DIY store. Normal high speed steel bits are too soft and have the wrong cutting angle. Remember that stainless steel work hardens, so a suitable drilling technique is also required - if you're not sure then ask.

Interesting to see this Erebus advert again 40 years on! Going through some old papers today I came across possibly the last remaining copy of the "full descriptive particulars" together with a couple of drawings of the then layout. The particulars note that ".. conversion was completed in 1979, since when EREBUS has completed an extensive journey around the canals of northern England".

Try here or Google "vee belts and pulleys" I don't know the make of your alternator, but back in the day when I had to do this Lucas would supply a data sheet with a diagram plotting rpm against output, from which you can work out the pulley sizes needed. Try the alternator maunfacturer's website, or get a phone number for technical support to request this info as a starting point.

My two panels are fixed to some of those clunky plastic corner brackets designed for a flat motorhome roof, which in turn are attached to the boat solely by gravity. This was intended as a holding measure until I sorted out a neater and more secure method, but they are still like that 3 years on. Despite some ferocious winds on occasion they have not moved, unlike some flexible panels on a nearby moored boat.

I have both a cheap Chinese one and a Tritex. A key difference is that the Chinese one reads a single echo, whilst the Tritex reads multiple echoes. The Chinese one will be cofused by paint or corrosion on the surface the probe is placed against, while the Tritex won't (usually) be. So to use the single echo type effectively you must clean paint, corrosion or any other crud off down to clean metal, but if that is done they are reasonbly accurate, bearing in mind the stated error range (as mentioned in #6 above). Also make sure the meter is calibrated correctly before use as the echo travels at different speeds through different metals.

Turbo trainer. . .?

My last dog was a Labrador, but he was getting on in years when I came back to the cut and died before we had a chance to go boating together. One problem was that, like many dogs, he would not climb open tread stairs and at 38 kgs was too heavy to easily lift, so I had to replace the cabin steps with something that looked like stairs. If I had another dog it would ideally be another Lab. (Spelling edit)

Since you say you are refitting I presume that the boat was already fitted out when you bought it, and would therefore almost certainly be ballasted. If that is so, why do you need to add ballast? If you want realistic advice more information is needed, and a few photos would definitely help. How old is the boat? Is it a steel hull? If so is it V bottomed or flat bottomed? How long?

I have noticed posts that quote an (obviously) earlier post, where I have been unable to see the quoted post. Which seems like a variant of the issue the OP rasied.

Even if you end up buying elsewhere it's worth having a look at the FAQ section on the Photonic Universe website if you are at all new to solar power. One thing I'd advise, from my own experience, is don't go for the cheapest controller, they are typically the least efficient; go for a (generally more expensive) MPPT controller, as they will get the most charge out of whatever size solar panels you go for.

Try Photonic Universe . I have bought panels and controllers from them over the years, both for motor homes and my current boat. Good range and helpful.

A liquidation notice for Tolladine Boats appeared in the London Gazette 15th January 1981.

His boat listing site has been here at Canal Plan for a long time. I don't know what may have happened to the rest of it though.

A single MPPT controller like this one will charge both your domestic battery bank and your starting battery. The main charge goes to the domestic batteries with a trickle charge going to the starter battery, which is all it needs. I have one on my boat and it has breathed new life into the 9 year old batteries which came with the boat when I bought it 3 years ago. (edited for typos)

Whilst stuck at home shielding I'm hearing reports that my mooring on the Coventry canal Fazeley to Fradley pound is down at least 6 inches, which is unusual, given that it's a longish pound with 3 locks entering and just 1 exiting. What are levels like generally elsewhere around the system?

I need to replace an old Morso Squirrel which is realistically beyond economic repair. Existing flue system is more modern and sound, so looking to go for another Morso, rather than a cheaper alternative which would most likely involve extra cost of a new flue. To save a bit of money I'm considering the Swift, as all exterior dimensions are identical to the Squirrel making it a drop in replacement. Before deciding I'd appreciates input from anyone who has experience of both who can give a comparison of performance.

As a rule of thumb I reckon that's a bit optimistic for CRT facilities, there are parts of the system where you might well go a day or more, and that's assuming a good rate of progress. Boatyards will often let you use their disposal points, sometimes at a fee, but probably not on turn round days if they run a hire fleet. Many folk with cassette toilets will carry one or two spare cassettes, but you then need somewhere to store them (preferrably not on the roof).

Una, hopefully you won't, but don't be too surprised if you find some rot under that shower tray.

Passed a narrowboat on the southern end of the GU last year called "The Slowness of Cows". This rather amused me, so I wouldn't actually nominate it as a worst name.