AndrewIC

Have they not turned off the taps at Whaley Bridge then?

Probably. There is foot access to the road on the NW side of the bridge, whether there us clearance at the top I'm not certain. Failing that you might be able to wheel it through the grounds of Park Farm Marina (which, if your map is more than a couple of years old, is also NW of that bridge. There would be good road access at 184.

Only if the canoeist had a pair of coconut shells to make the clip-clop noise while the horse swims through any tunnels without towpaths. (Yes, there are tunnels with no towpaths which are on the permitted list, including Barnton and Saltersford.

Perhaps they around your way, around here the FB just dole out battery powered alarms. The main points of my question were the other two parts though.

Who provides an equivalent service for CO (and smoke - mandatory in new builds) alarms in domestic premises, even those with fashionable solid fuel stoves? Who enforces such routine testing? No one. Why should boats be subject to more stringent and costly encumbrances?

CRT policy changed some while back. Canoes are now permitted in a variety of dangerous and unsuitable tunnels.

We've been here before. Not all -2 certified alarms are certified for use on boats, it's an optional feature. The only way to be sure is to check the detailed certification. I have pointed out to the BSS that their guidance didn't mention this and was ignored. My CO alarm is about two feet from my head when asleep, and that's where it's staying! In my view anyone who doesn't have a CO alarm probably needs their head testing, but testing boaters' heads is beyond the scope of the BSS.

I believe there were additional inter-chamber paddles, allowing the locks to be used as side ponds. Only ever seen one picture of them though.

Ah, thanks, I thought it was on the licensing page with the rest of the reciprocal agreement. The Wayback Machine suggests that I was imagining it! Was thinking of venturing up that way, apparently they have water

I'm looking at the Bridgewater licensing page for the current reciprocal agreement info, and it says: C&RT licence holders may remain on the Bridgewater Canal for periods not exceeding seven consecutive days. C&RT craft wishing to extend beyond the 7 day reciprocal arrangement period must obtain a temporary short term Bridgewater Canal Licence at a cost of £40 for 7 consecutive days. i can't find any reference anywhere (any longer?) to the 28-day no return stipulation which has been the cause of so much comment. Has it been removed Now, or was it never documented on the website?

Overnight closures in Middlewich starting 8th August. Locks locked all the way from 67 (Booth Lane Top) to 75 (Big Lock), 6pm-8am daily UFN. Allegedly to "let water levels recover" overnight, but quite how "levels recover" when the flight leaks itself dry overnight is beyond me.

I know it simply as a ball joint. Search ASAP Supplies for "ball joint" and you will see a selection. (Other chandleries are available.)

Has the gate paddle rack been unbolted from the rod, or actually cut? Why such destruction for a "temporary" closure?

So NEXT time....

We're rapidly running out of options for the hols, unless it rains unceasingly for the next two weeks, so may brave the Bilgewater again. What's the visitor mooring situation like in Castlefield nowadays? Last time we were there we had to squeeze in outside the YMCA.

If the surveyor (who is your agent) causes damage through negligence while a-surveying, he is liable for his actions, and that's why he has, or should have, professional indemnity insurance. But he probably won't be taking the boat out of the water. If the yard who are taking the boat out of the water cause damage through negligence, they would be liable, and should be suitably insured as well. They are taking the boat out of the water on the instructions of the owner (or his agent, the broker). not you; you are in no position to give instructions regarding what is still someone else's property. If the boat really does fall to bits when being pulled out, I expect there will be an almighty row between the owner, their insurer and the yard as to whether this was negligent, or foreseeable, and who is to blame, but that's not you. if the owner is reluctant to allow a survey, or claims the boat is too frail to come out of the water for a survey, then either it it really is, or he has something to hide that he doesn't want you or your surveyor to see. Either way, don't walk away, run!

Are they still pumping water back up into that length from the junction pound?

Fair enough! Can't help you there, sorry, except to observe that fans are probably available in a larger range of sizes than mushrooms

BSS (if it applies to you) may not like the hatches if they can close off all the ventilation?

No it isn't, 67 is Crow's Nest aka Booth Lane Top. The paired locks don't start until the Wheelock flight.

Thanks for the tips. I used those Screwfix rollers (which are in fact described explicitly as varnish rollers on the packaging), worked one door at a time, and tipped off the wet varnish with a dry soft 4" brush. I am a rank amateur when it comes to any kind of painting or varnishing, but the results are far better and much more even than I could achieve with a brush alone. Now psyching myself up for the ceiling panels later in the year... Additional lesson learned: de-bit the roller before you start, lest the first panel end up a bit fluffy!

Thanks - just checking! That's nohair, not mohair!

Something like this? https://www.screwfix.com/p/harris-trade-gloss-mini-roller-sleeves-simulated-mohair-pile-4-x-24mm-5-pack/5519x

As part of my slow internal refurb I've reached the revarnishing of my big cross bathroom doors. They're about 6ft2 tall and 4ft wide, so a fair acreage to cover, both sides. I'm using Goldspar Satin, and I'm only working in the early morning when it's cool, but I'm not happy with the finish I'm getting. The data sheet says it can be applied by roller, and I was thinking of giving that a go, using a foam roller and tipping off with a brush to get rid of bubbles. Does anyone have any experience, hopefully good, of applying satin varnish with a roller?