davey b

Glad I'm not the only one in this state of knowledge and ownership... No idea who it is but always keen to know of people who are good with JPs and service (and, obviously, the opposite situation - good to be aware)

It is exactly that preference based info I was hoping to avoid by getting a specification database for materials rather than a list of preferred 'stuff'. There is a spec for Marine Ply, just as there is for 'arctic' cable, but they're not on the same list (unless anyone knows better), similarly there is a very detailed 'use' list on the Sika website for their products. It could lead to people looking at specs and making an educated assessment on which to base their decision.

Is there definitive guide for the properties of materials that are used in boat fitting (or one which would serve from another trade/process group)? The question about MDF had me thinking as there are various different grades of MDF, someone mentioned a chipboard, birch faced ply was mentioned and there are many versions of ply (marine, shuttering, phenolic, WBP, cheap s**t...) but it applies to all materials. We regularly see questions about which paint, which glue, which sealant, etc so is there a use/product/material database? I should add, I meant a trade or professional resource (similar to the Quantity Surveyors' guides in building) rather than Smilie Pete's labour of love pinned in this sub forum.

I'm not a fan of Ku Rust or any of the 'new' Finnigans products (or most of the ICI/ Akzo Nobel range including Dulux) because they no longer have the critical ingredients that gave them their reputation. Instead of Kurust, i'd recommend Fertan or similar acidic based products or just straight on with the Vactan (which has added stuff over the active acid ingredient) Or just wire brush & slap some paint on it until you have the full job done - that'll do for now

I am dreading opening our tank... Not done in the 3 years we've had it, i doubt it was done for the preceding 5 years. My plan was to get in, assess, wire brush and black it, but that looks a fine job. Might even do that and fit a liner rather than have to repeat the task

You also need to make sure the quotes are alike. I have one of Martin's (Kedian) pigeon boxes on the boat and it is a fine piece of work - I picked it up from their yard where I got to see them building hire boat shells (which look stronger than than some Royal Navy hulls!). Their steel work will I'm sure be excellent, but make sure that is not all the quote involves as there is probably a lot more than just the steel work for a stretch.

Is there an electrolytic method for brass? I'm happy to polish the mushrooms but I'd like to dip some bigger items with crevices (!). Only other option is gallons of Silver Dip! I thought the rusty item might be a thatching sprag but Mr Schweizer seems to hav that covered.

Right... Watched it now: Tripe!

Having not watched it yet (it's in the box with the lights on rather than the pictures) I will suggest that it is not aimed at anyone who is actually interested in boats but aimed at those who might be interested in the quirks associated with not living on a sink estate (which is well supplied by soaps and reality) Guy Martin's series improved with time and had a semi serious/educational element but I can't do anything but defend him as a demi-god of motorcycles - he is simply incredible on two wheels, on some machines he has built himself. Apart from the slightly strange American engineer, that was a fascinating programme. I'll bet the CrossRail engineering won't be a sound as the Victorian elements it replaces in 150 years time.

They are going to build on the site. There is pp for 350 houses and light industrial with rail access on the south of the site. The north towers go next year (though there are some interesting problems there), the turbine house over the course of the year and the chimney in about 15 months. The skyline will be clear from the Chilterns to the Ridgeway for the first time in nearly 50 years. I was fortunate enough to watch it from the office and the view from my bathroom has changed significantly.

As it appears the default UK offended you, I have updated my location on my profile. I don't really believe it would have made any diffrence in this query, and certainly no difference to my answer. Done now anyway...

Procast (Notts) supply wood grain patterned fibre-glass liners amongst othe designs, we have them on our ports from when we bought the boat but I got two more from them recently. They paint up nicely and dont cost the earth http://www.procastnotts.com/www.procastnotts.coms/info.php?p=10

Try these chaps: http://www.ta-architectural.co.uk/ Not much of a web presence but a mine of stuff and knowledge and very helpful - definitely worth a call

I did the same as suggested above but instead of metal, used Masterboard fire-proof board abd behind was stuffed with glass insulation. Masterboard is one of a few trade names for it, but it's expensive (£100 a sheet of 8x4 and you won't need that much). It paints up the same as plaster board. Trim with whatever you fancy on the top, I used the standard brass ring.

Which can be locked whilst you are in there preventing your escape in an emergency... I only know as that is a standard 'joke' at work - see a loose hasp & staple on a door and lock it. The thought of this causing injury or death scares me. Funny if done while you're out, though! (for about 3 nano seconds)

Whilst not in the market for a CRT mooring at the moment, I am at a loss why all available moorings are not up on the auction site at all times until let and on a rolling re-listing system (like many of the trade listings on ebay). How can it possibly be cheaper to leave a mooring un-let? The majority of non-towpath mooring appear to have little more than basic maintenance applied that they might get anyway. As a 70' boat owner, seeing 60' mooring that could clearly accommodate a 70' boat is also slightly frustrating - any mooring that can accommodate a 70' should b offered at 70' with an option for people to enquire about reduced length arrangements. Clearly is a mooring is not 70' then it should be up to the length it can accommodate. I have no idea why these mooring auctions (or whatever system replaces it) seems so difficult to organise...

I recently obtained a bargain - a Montague Paratrooper http://www.montaguebikes.com/folding-bike/ for $32 and a cup of coffee. By the time I got it home, grit blasted, powder coated, went through the components under a kero bath, replaced worn components, replaced more components, bought wheels to replace the ones I couldn't transport back, updated some bits and pieces, upgraded some comfy bits, pretty muck built up an equivalent Montague X90 (same frame set), etc, etc, my bargain cost me pennies over £1300!

It seems the best method is to get lots on the surface, brush/roll it into place and do not attempt to work it in any other way - no re-touching, no just-going-back-in-that-corner... Only 1 litre wasted... I will stock up on proper paint during the week. For sale: 975cc of Valspar Gloss in Buttermilk white! Bargain at a donation to any charity, buyer collects.

47 secs is merely my cynical assessment of how much longer the Earth will last if we all switch to water-based paints... I have no proof but neither does anyone else! I'm now ready to try again having sanded off the previous coat's poor finish.

Has anyone else begun to suffer the water-based gloss paints that are being introduced? For the interior areas, I usually get Dulux trade liquid gloss from a trade supplier but today (Sunday) needed some gloss to finish a job so ended up in B&Q. They have just started to mix Valspar paints instead of Dulux and all the Valspar range there is water-based. Does anyone have any tips for using this odious stuff? First area showed poor gloss and coverage, so I got out a new brush and tried a thicker covering which has given a better finish but nothing like the good, old style, oil-based gloss we've used for years. I already know this is for ecological reasons, and I am truly happy the world will last 47 seconds longer, but in the mean time, any tips for shiny paint? It does dry rapidly and clean easily - and its cheaper - but as yet it's not winning... Better than the 'one-coat' systems though.

They look like Procast portholes... we used this product on ours: http://www.diy.com/nav/build/insulation/draught-excluders/weather_strip_door_seals/Stormguard-Rubber-E-Profile-Weather-Strip-Brown-10908050?skuId=11398746 Fits perfectly and allows the clip room to move easily. Remember to leave a gap for the drain hole