PeterDHS

Thanks again for all your help. Peter

This may not help as it does not show engine wiring, but does show how the rest our boat is wired. Looks like plaited smoke in reality, but if you are methodical in tracing the wires you can get there in the end.EndjinElectrics Model (1).pdf Peter

Thanks MtB,I was guessing the expansion tank would be better on the hot pipe, good to have it confirmed with clarity. As said the calorifier is an 'Albion', no paperwork, and the company no longer exists. Chewbacka,good thinking ! Not much info on the website but I have concerns about over-riding the pump cutout and it looks like a 240 v fitting to me (what do I know). Thanks both Pete the OP

Thanks SmileyPete !!! That diagram seems to answer the question, ie it shows a reducer and an expansion tank, much as I proposed to do it. Excellent work and thankyou. Pete the OP MtB- sorry you glazed over, not my intention.

Bizzard- the calorifier is vertical near the rear of the boat and the PRV sits on top. Dave- I think the pressure regulators are spring loaded things, very much like a PRV really, so the pump might cut out at 2.7 bar but anything downstream of the regulator would be at 1.5 bar, or whatever it is set at. The pump says it does not need an accumulator, although I guess it might cycle less with one. Pete the OP

Hi guys, OP here and just back from the boat. Thanks for your inputs so far which my brain is trying to absorb. Better info in the meantime- Calorifier is 800x300 Albion Marine labelled 3 bar max, looks really heavy duty but no obvious NRV here or anywhere on the system.Albion is no longer trading. I obviously don't want the pressure plus expansion to exceed the 3 bar limit of the caloifier or the PRV. Accumulator is 5 litre set at just over 1 bar (13/14 psi), although difficult to set or read accurately. The ParMax 2.9 pump cuts in at 1.4 bar and out at 2.7 bar (40 psi) and the blurb says 'no need for an accumulator' (?). It is not adjustable. So my guess is that everything is theoretically fine but working on the upper pressure limits, until heat expansion overtops the PRV which is not ideal. I'm thinking my best option may be to put a pressure regulator where the accumulator sits (next to the pump) and move the accumulator near to the calorifier to soak up the expansion ?. The pressure regulator is of course a NRV. Peter

A few years back my water pump failed and because of a history of poor and unreliable showers I persuaded myself to buy a higher powered Par Max 2.9 bar pump. Bad thinking. I then had to upgrade the PRV to 3 bar and even then when the engine is worked hard I have a constant weep from the PRV. Also I have concerns over the pressure on the calorifier and possible damage. ROOF details Model (1).pdf. (sorry, can't quite work out the PDF attachment thing). Anyway the issue is i now have a dial/adjustable pressure regulator which may be the answer if i knew where to fit it. if i fit it between the pump and the accumulator then the accumulator won't stop the pump cycling. If i fit it downstream of the accumulator the pump shouldnt cycle but the accumulator won't provide any expansion, so i may need another 'expansion' tank near the calorifier. Maybe I'm confused about the accumulator/expansion function. So where to put the regulator ? And would I need another expansion tank ? Peter ps- the shower mixer was replaced and is now not an issue.

I'm with Phil on this. I powerewashed our cratch last summer and it removed the algae, it also removed two-thirds of the stitching. The cratch has survived the winter due to excellent original seam glues, but the stitching is gonzo and I will have to get it professionally over-stitched Be warned. Peter

So, reading between the lines, and ignoring the complications of heat exchangers etc the consensus seems to be that expansion/header tanks are a good thing, or at worst they don't do much harm. Interesting from Loafer that he reckons they extend the life of the water pump, I'm guessing this would apply only to engines that arent topped up twice a day. I'm going to look out for a s/h tank off a van/small lorry and them see how it might sit in the available space. Thanks guys, Peter

I know of a (very) few boats that have an expansion tank (like in a car), but they are the exception rather than the rule. I was wondering why these are not standard issue. Is there a difference in cooling capacity between a skin tank and a car radiator ? Is it just a space issue in a tight engine ole ? Or perhaps is it a larger volume of coolant to cope with? Just wondering. Peter

Cheap and cheerful, you will soon make allowances for accuracy and it will give you a working idea of the volts available. My one is a cigaret lighter stick and just pushes in the wall socket, also I can plug it into the car on return from a trip to see if it will start/ recharge. Useful gizmo, popular with caravaners.

21 x 10 is practically an offcut size for a proper woodyard, so you really need to contact them or visit, and make your requirements known. Teak is stupid expensive. Oak is good and you sometimes get pieces with too much 'figure' or knot ends which go in the scrap pile, ideal for what you want, lots of character. The 2" thickness might be rarer to find. Consider getting 20mm finished size planks and bonding together, or simply 'edging' where the depth shows. A 20 mm oak plank is NOT a frail bendy thing and will blunt your blades, so get it cut and finished if you can. Peter.

What about using the melt water from the fridge ice ? If this is just moisture captured from the atmosphere it should contain very little minerals, but what about them ions ??? Peter

I am not getting this at all. I have run a boat fairly hard for the last six years and I'm only half way down the original 1 litre bottle I bought in 2010. Do you use it for washing ? Adding to single malt ? What would I do with 25 litres ? By the time you factor the value of the storage space it is nuts to bulk buy . Peter

Over-cooling might be an issue with a plate exchanger or an attempt to heat radiator circuits. However my install (see previous) was simply air fanned through a Fiesta heater matrix. Cost was about £45 from memory and works brill. On my 46 ft NB with a 38hp BetaMarine there is no discernable temperature drop whatever. Best money I have ever spent on the boat (don't get me started on the money-pit issue). Peter.

A boat (like anything else) is worth only what the highest bidder will pay for it, so if you want it be prepared to seriously haggle and be prepared to lose it if necessary. And keep a clear head. It is amazing how many punters will pay hundreds more for a car that is buffed and valeted, and reject out of hand a better example which is grubby. Polish and sweat are cheap. Peter.

You need a biscuit tin, two computer fans cut into the lid, a switch,and a bleed valve. Plus hoses in parralel to the calorifier feed, and whatever ductwork/wiring required. I took the electrical feed from the horn switch. Ours is housed in the calorifier cupboard at rear of boat, ducted under the bed and exits in the central bathroom. It means on a wet day the bathroom is tropical for defrosting me and drying clothes without/before firing up the stove. With the bathroom door open the whole central portion of the boat is warmed. Not noticed any drop in engine temp (70), or any downside at all. Go for it. I fitted a bleed valve on a high t-off which means I can easily bleed the heater matrix (ex fiesta) and the calorifier. Peter

There may be an issue with the £159 version in that it has a small 150 firebox and NO glass vision panel. The embers may collapse against the door and when you open it blind, may fall all over the shop, hence the need for a substantial hearth ???

Thanks for the prompt replies. Yes, it is mainly the vertical windings on the front bumper (there must be a name for it !) that are sheared and rotted). I think (hope) the core is still sound. I think I will attempt to replace these as they seem to just wrap over, and conveniently through the loop in the support chains. Might need a little tying in to prevent them moving sideways under stress. Then I have gallons of wood preservative in the garage somewhere. Messy job but I guess it has to be done. Bit surprised it failed on the Oxford as most gates have smooth rubbing plates fitted, unlike my home waters on the Soar, then again I suppose I would not have let the boat rise/fall on the gate on the Soar. Not too old to admit it is bad practise.

I prefer canvas for appearance and flexibilty but I have yet to find anything that will clean the mildew every spring. I even tried a power washer but that just blasted the stitching cotton to shreds !!! I guess either option involves a compromise.

After this summers trip down the OXford I realise my un-treated 5 year old rope bumpers are a bit shredded and rotted in places. Perhaps I should have gone for synthetic rope but it didn't look or feel right. Anyway the question to you peeps is what should I treat them with to stop the rot ? or have I left it too late now strands are weak enough to break off by hand ? Any and all views gratefully recieved. Peter

I hope I am misreading this....are you suggesting that a gennie (diesil or petrol) should be used on deck ???? Can I be mentioned in your Wills ? Peter

There is a great temptation to get the highest PSI in the belief this will give a better flow especially on the shower. I did this and it was a mistake. Basically 40 psi is only a few psi short of 3 bar, so I found it worked OK as long as I didnt run the engine. With the engine running and the caloifier up to 65 degrees the PRV pumps hot water over the side at a constant (but not dramatic ) rate. Increasing the PRV rating might cure it but would put unecessary pressure on the pipes and calorifier. At the moment I get by by draining a couple of pints of water from the hot tap once we are up to travelling temperature, in the belief that this will ease the expansion pressure a bit (bet someone will say this is buttercups). It's a pain. So don't pump higher than 30 psi. The good news is that the shower pressure is up to swmbo standards. Peter ps- if the Paloma is ageing it might be the first to object to the higher pressure.

How about testing with a bowl of hot water and a thermometer. Add more hot water until the stat clicks or circuit is broken by using a circuit tester. If it works (accepting the dials are often totally innaccurate) then adjust bowl temp to 60, stick it back in the cylinder and have some beers on what you saved.

Try www.mimarine.co.uk they seem to have BWB and CRT versions in a range of background colours and fonts. Peter.