Davidss

Note that I have removed the http prefix from all the image urls, so the text is visible but they are inactive. When in the forum, I can't see the image on this link (but can if I post the link directly into my browser). From topic http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=48042 But when in the forum, I can see the image on this link From topic http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=48041 The unobtainable image is a canalworld.net upload The viewable image is on photobucket. Is there a change I should make to enable viewing canalworld.net uploads? It wasn't until I constructed this post that I realised it was a canalworld.net gallery picture I couldn't see. I've now gone directly to the Gallery, and by chance found the same image in 'Recent Images', but I still can't see it. I have selected another image, by another poster, and can't see that either: ://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=viewimage&img=4997 The 'problem' appears to be that I can't see Gallery images. I've checked the settings in my Profile, but cannot see anything relevant to change. Help please 

Sorry, but Dum-Dum is was NOT an exhaust assembly paste. Both could be considered 'horrid', it depends how much you enjoy having a layer of paste embedded in your skin. If left, the exhaust assembly paste will dry hard, and when you pick it off it may take the top layer of dirty skin with it. Dum-Dum never sets, it's prime selling point, and so gets transferred everywhere your fingers touch, in small quantities. Work both products with wet hands or spatulas, dipping repeatedly in water while you are working. On their own, modern lightweight protection gloves are not effective, they just get pulled and stretched to the point of tearing, although how soon this happens may vary with the quality of the glove. Having written the above, I looked for a link to Dum Dum. It appears production ceased in 2011, presumably because there were felt to be health issues. Some old stock may be available, but I suggest calling to check stock exists before placing an order. From the threads I've read, no one product seems to have created the same 'hold' on the market, if you will excuse the pun. HTH

Surely the simplest way to check if the 'interference' is due to the relay circuit or the horn circuit is to disconnect the horn, then press the button and see if the bow-thruster misbehaves? The faulting technique after that depends on the results, although I must confess I'm sceptical about 'back EMF' being a cause. I'd expect (hope) the control circuit is protected against any such spikes. I'd be more suspicious of any poor / corroded connections causing a voltage drop. True, this could be considered a 'spike', but it is likely to be more substantial than a spike induced by back EMF. HTH

I have had problems with an Enterprise branch. The most significant being that they refused to return me home, claiming 'lack of staff'. If you have some idea when you will be returning the car, I suggest you check that the return service is expected to be available. I have previously used them without this problem, but when using the same Branch, in Chesterfield, I discovered they had moved premises, and apparently all the personnel. The two changes may not be related to the change in Customer Service standard, but they existed. When you pick up the car, they quote you a 'per litre' fuel charge they will use if you return the vehicle with less fuel in than when you collect it. Ask if this price includes VAT, because it isn't clear on the final bill. The quoted price can sound attractive, compared to a typical forecourt price, so you can be tempted to return the car with less fuel in. However, if they are going to add VAT you are better taking the trouble to top up the tank yourself. Also watch for them stressing the 'risk' of the £600 excess which you will have to pay, even for 'no fault' damage. You can take out a waiver for £500 of that, but the cost of £11.00 PER DAY boosts the daily charge by 50% (This was for a Band C car). Your decision, but I suggest it depends on how often your car was damaged, when you drove one regularly. I might use them again, but I'll probably try a different office, as I seem to have the option open to me. If you also have the option, compare prices offered for the same band of vehicle, even within a local area, say 15 miles radius of your address, you may well find a difference. I inquired about dropping off a vehicle in Glasgow, to make a one way hire. Although the offices were close together, I was warned the Airport office was considerably more expensive that the 'street' office. As it happened, this deal didn't come to fruition. HTH

I think you mean 'underground aquifers'. As in "a porous deposit of rock, such as a sandstone, containing water that can be used to supply wells". HTH

"That little nozzle thing" does not fit either of your power supplies directly. Concentrate on the power supply with detachable heads and two pins. Select the detachable head that will plug into the back of "that little nozzle thing", then fit the detachable head to the power unit. It's wise to get the polarity correct, although the PC is 'probably' protected if you get it the wrong way round. Look for some way of gluing the two adapters to the power lead so it all becomes a fixed plug 'permanently' attached to the lead HTH

If you eat out every night, full family or just a couple of you, it will get surprisingly expensive. More so if you drink pints as well as eat. If you have the money to spend, then fine, but just do the arithmetic before you go, and make sure you have put enough in the account that services your card. And always have some 'emergency' rations on board for the night that 'eating out' doesn't work. HTH

The title of the thread carries the description 'shaft log arrangement'. In the context of a boat moving through water I know what a 'log' is (and what a shaft is!), but I wonder what Serendipity (the OP) meant by 'shaft log'? I agree the pictures could be better. Possibly a couple of the inside of the shaft bearing / seal arrangement might help, at least in a process of elimination, 'of what it is not'. When posting, put a line space between pictures. So far, I have some understanding (if not sympathy) of the boatyards approach. (Never seen one before, don't understand it, don't want to understand it, as we don't see them on a regular basis, so let's cut the labour costs and brain exercise, and fit a complete arrangement we think we understand and have fitted before).) The validity of the approach is that it's cheaper for them, and for you if you let them do the work. Your cheaper alternative is to get the collective CWDF mind involved, where your only 'cost' is sifting the dross from the jewels!! (Vision here of Customs Officers waiting for a mule to displace whatever they might have swallowed). HTH, although tea time might not be the best time to post :-))

Because an Advanced Search is geared more closely to your requirements. :-)

I thought, that with the 'two of you' the wide locks would be beneficial, as you only have to operate them once to take both boats through. Or am I missing something? (Exits left, whistling innocently, with coat slung nonchalantly over shoulder :-))

Yes, as can be seen more clearly in .As you can see by it's finish, this trailer has seen some service. To be fair to the OP, he didn't claim the process was uniquely 'new', apart from new to him. HTH

Deleted, as comments overtaken by the posts of others, which arrived while I was typing.

You misunderstand me, but I can see why you came to that conclusion. While writing my comment I looked at the assembly as a whole. I could see, at second glance, the grease nipple that no-one else had mentioned, and the collar the extender was screwed into. I then looked at the bush welded into the deck, but DUE TO THE DIRT, it is impossible to see clearly whether it is a one piece bush extending up to the 'collar with the grease nipple', or a short bush with a collar above it, clamped to the rudder shaft to hold it in position. The difference will affect the disassembly procedure. All it would have taken was a wipe round with a damp cloth, or mop, to remove the dirt. My tartness was caused by the fact I'd started to help, but couldn't complete the task to my satisfaction due to a lack of simple housekeeping. I felt I'd wasted my time (but I'd started, so I finished). I'll let you decide for yourself my feelings on seeing no-one has (yet) come up with a better suggestion, rather they have wandered off onto a theoretical discussion on tiller design, which in too typical CWDF fashion doesn't help the OP at all. I doubt this explanation of my feelings helps much, either, but I'll hide behind the greater distraction :-) I agree with you that if someone recognises the exact design, and knows from experience exactly how disassembly is achieved, then they can give a perfect answer. However, it's rarely a perfect world, so preparing alternatives seems like a reasonable course of action, especially when it involves such a little investment of energy as a wipe round with a damp cloth or mop. Regards.

That stud is actually a grease nipple on a tube extender, although judging by the paint over the nipple, and the dry rust where the rudder shaft comes through the collar, there has been no grease down there for a while. I think the first step is to remove the paint completely, from all the circular bits, by sanding or chemical attack. Then you can see what other fixings might exist and proceed accordingly. For instance, how is the the collar the nipple extension is screwed prevented from turning? Is the bush welded to the deck a single tall bush, or a short bush with a spacer? And what the hell is wrong with a bit of simple and obvious cleaning before posting pictures to ask questions? Show some inclination to help yourself, don't just parasite on the back of others.

OK, FWIW, my experience of taking a boat past the red traffic lights and arriving safely at Sawley Marina. I was single handed, and it wasn't my steel narrowboat, so there was less at risk :-) This was a decade or more ago. Working through Derwent Mouth lock was noticeably quicker than normal, because the lock didn't have to empty very much! I had no difficulty getting back on board after closing the bottom gates. I aimed straight down the middle while still in the canalised section. You will have seen that as you enter the river the flow is from your right, almost at 90 degrees. The faster flow is across the mouth of the canal, so aim more or less straight across the river to cut through the faster flowing water. You are aiming to get closer to the right-hand bank of the river. Note that 'closer to' is NOT 'close to', a 20 foot gap is fine. Also note that the boat moves faster through the water if the tiller is pointing straight ahead. When crossing the fast flow keep the engine speed high and the tiller straight, letting the flow push the boat sideways, you have the space to play with, so moving 10 feet sideways is no problem, as you will actually be moving diagonally and will soon exit the fastest flow. Do NOT try to counter steer against the sideways movement, concentrate on getting through the fast flow into the slacker water. Once you are moving parallel to the right hand bank, stationed about 20 feet off, you can reduce the stress on the engine and yourself by throttling back and enjoying the spectacle. You are effectively in the slackest flow of the river, but there are no sandbanks or shallows to worry about. Any arch of the Motorway bridge is passable, so maintain your course at this point. As you get level with the start of the barrier across the weir, wind the engine up to full speed and align the boat so that if you were to maintain your course the right hand side of the boat would brush the piling on the right hand side of the approach channel to the flood lock. As you approach the channel the push of the river will be from right to left, getting stronger and stronger the closer you get to the channel entrance. Again, concentrate on the best possible forward speed by holding the tiller straight ahead. The channel is wide enough to allow some diagonal movement of the boat. Depending on the actual flow of the river you may need some strength to push the tiller right, just to maintain the straight ahead position. This will only last a few seconds but can be surprising, and is probably the most stressful part of the trip. When you reach the flood lock note the position of the paddles on both gates. It's probable that all four gates will be closed, but a single paddle raised at each end of the lock. There are only gate paddles. Progress through the lock as normal, but leave the gates and paddles in the same state as you found them. There may be notices posted giving advice on this point. If you wish to reward yourselves by visiting the Chandlery and Cafe you can moor on the nearside and walk round via the road bridge. Alternatively idle down the cut giving yourself plenty of time to examine the boats on the moorings of both the Marina and the Derby Motor Boat Club. The next task is to spot the directions of the lockeeper as to which one of the paired locks you are to enter. HTH, and have fun.

That picture appears to show some stop plank grooves between the by-wash outlet and the bottom gates, so they are there, just unused on this occasion. (Possibly in the wrong place for the defect they are attempting to repair?). I would echo the comment from Mac "Thank you, Martin. You have contributed enormously to the sum of our ignorance of what the hell is going on!". I'd better confirm I read that as a positive comment, quixotically expressed :-) Regards.

After reading the other replies I think I can offer you some goods news, as I have seen positive mention of a 12v dehumidifier in a CC'ers blog. He reports favourably on its performance, and it was recommended to him by a boat owner, so that's at least two people in the community who have found 'it did it for them'. Now then, who and where. IIRC, Bruce's blog 'Living In Sanity Again' was where I read about it. BruceinSanity is a member of this forum, but I'm not sure whether he will pick up this mention. I'm not sure what the qualifying criteria is on this forum for Member searching and PMs; it might be 5 posts, in which case you are OK. I've previously tried Searching his blog, but found the facility inadequate. Don't let that stop you trying though, as it might have been operator error on my behalf. HTH

Ignoring the screw / bolt differences, it seems to my eyes that the Diamond Head and the Rose Head are essentially different names for the same style of head, so if faced with a pile of old fasteners we would have picked out the same design. Going back to the beginning and re-reading Blossoms How-To, he may start with a Coach Bolt, but by judicious use of a grinder he converts it to a square section tapered 'nail' or spike, and then hammers it into a pilot hole. OK, given the starting point, it's not going to have a Diamond or Rose head, but I think it operates in essentially the same manner. I do note that the head isn't directly protected from damaging the surface being mopped, but I suspect as the mop is always held at an angle, and the tongues of material are concentrated at that point, the danger was felt to be minimised. I afraid that for me this is armchair boating, and not likely to change, so practical experience outscores any suggestion of mine. Cheers.

You drill a pilot hole, as when putting any large diameter screw in to a piece of wood with a small cross section. (Large and Small are relative to each other, obviously). Diamond Coach Bolt, this American site refers to a Diamond Head Lag Screw, but it's the concept of a Diamond Head that is significant. I've failed to find a link to the image that this forum will accept, but they can be seen here. EDIT I've now found the same image on another site. In return, perhaps you can display a "rose head spike" for those of us who not only think they don't "have those to hand", but don't actually know what to look for. :-) HTH

Posted on 26th March this year, just with people like you in mind! Blossom makes a traditional Rag Mop :-) Ahh, I see I was beaten by a minute!! Edited to add the picture.

My only concern in all this is that the OP (Wrinkley) said 'join us for a couple of days'. We now know he is approaching from the Soar. I think 2 days, even at this time of year, is pushing it a bit if the trip is to be enjoyed. I'm accepting than leaving a car at Sawley Marina is safer than leaving it at Trent Lock, leaving a car at SM for a week certainly worked OK for us. Adding in a trip from Soar Mouth to Sawley, winding the boat, and travelling back to Trent Lock before they start on the Erewash is just making failure more likely. This can be mitigated slightly if Wrinkley moors overnight at Sawley before the pick-up, so merely has to do the additional trip from Trent Lock to Sawley once, but even so, taking 'a couple of days' literally creates an unwelcome time pressure. Of course, if 'a couple of days' actually means 4 days over the long Easter weekend, the situation is changed entirely, but we can only go on what we are told. The situation is also changed if someone claims that Trent Lock to Langley Mill in 6 hours is both feasible and enjoyable. HTH.

Use the Enlarge function in your browser. I don't know about lesser (!) browsers, but in Mozilla Firefox ... Enlarge is Control & = simultanously. (Think Control Plus, as + is on the same key as =) Reduce is Control & - simultanously. (Think Control Minus). HTH PS, I'm almost with you, I think someone has left the decimal point out. When you do enlarge the shots, especially of the leg, so you can see the paint runs, £5.00 would be more appropriate than £500.

I guess this is the 'Carlsberg Lock', according to the 'No Problem' blog of 29th March this is "just as you drop down on to the River Nene". I don't know the area at all, it was just a coincidence I saw the picture earlier today. HTH