JohnT

Yes its very noisy although you only hear it for a split second!!! JohnTy

Just a thought but as the weather is so cold it could be the thermostat on the engine is barely opening to pass the hot water too the calorifier, try feeling the pipes leading from the engine to the calorifier-carefully could be very hot! or maybe barely warm. its a good starting point. JohnTy

I prefer jeans me self!! JohnTy No doubt Dhutch will be along soon to correct my english!!!

But not for the same engine!!!! JohnTy

Must ave been a big job!

The later BMC 2.5 uses AG32 plugs (dont know what year they changed, sorry. Try The Green Spark Plug co www.gsparkplug.com very good prices too @£4 each!! They list CH and AG plugs. JohnT

The issue with the charging is that if you use it to the left (Glowplugs&start) it does not charge when you put the switch to the ignition/run position, the only way to get it to charge is stop the engine and re start to the right. I presume this must be so that the alternator is exicted before it turns? The engine actually runs very well and smoothly once its warmed up with just a haze of diesel smoke when ticking over, is this another sign of the injectors not being upto scratch? Many thanks for your help JohnT

On the Nofolk Broads this year I saw on a couple of occassions one of the resident wherries (large sailing Barge for those not in the know)being propelled by the outboard motor (probably only a few horsepower) still on the tender tied to the rear quarter of the boat (no wind to sail), only managing 1-2 mph but when you consider the size and displacement of a wherrie no mean feat. JohnT edited for spelling!

Hi Mike As I said in one of my earlier posts the injectors were serviced/exchanged last year(before we bought her) although i know and trust the yard where the work was done, i know not of the diesel engineers who actually serviced/exchanged the injectors. The ignition switch is one of the old fashioned originals and, turn it to the right, ignition, turn it further and it turns the engine over, turn it to the left (i'ts on a spring return) heater plugs, turn it further and it turns the engine over, you can then let it back and hold the heater plugs on(i assume). Only problem is by turning it to the left and starting it does not excite the alternator and does not charge(not a big problem)although i am concerned it may damage the alternator or charging system. I have to admit to starting it to the left when i first got her and it took me a couple of days (and very near flat starter and domestic batteries) before it dawned on me what was happening! fortunately no harm or damage done! I will try starting it this way and holding on the heat to see what happens(i am sure Snibble will be on here to give me the gypsies warning if needed) Thanks for input and i will certainly keep your suggestions in mind when i go to the boat next week, if its still there, she's on the Norfolk Broads and tonight the outlook with the weather is non to rosy to say the least, but i'm sure she will be fine!(fingers crossed and everything else) this forum certainly has the best knowledge and expertise i have found, the Broads boaters seem to pay someone else to everything! Cheers JohnT

Tony as I stated in my original post it is a 2.52ltr, I do allready have the manual from the dutch site thanks to a previous posting by you. No info re pressure readings unfortunately.Semi competent I is, a trained mechanic although not worked as a mech for 25yrs also my experience is mostly pertol engines until now!The valve timing reference was in reply to a previous respondant who was attempting to work out a theoretical figure from the compression ratio.So your recommendation is to leave the lid on - cant disagree really!Any suggestions how to reduce the white/grey (unburnt diesel) smoke for the first ten minutes on cold starting?Thanks to all respondants so farJohnT Twas my next step if any real issues showed up from the pressure test.Thanks for the deviation figures and your input.JohnT

Thanks guys, mike I am aware it needs to be done with a warm engine and in my case all glow plugs out! also the engine stop out, will be using a screw in adapter type. The engine uses very little oil for its age, about a pint and a quarter in 100 hours running. It will only start with 20-30 secs of pre heat from cold, starts readily for the rest of the day, white diesel smoke when cold for 5-10mins (everyone says this is normal, but few if any can say why) the injectors were serviced last year(before we bought her). The head has never been off in 27 years (of light private use) so the mechanic in me says it must be due for a decoke and valve seating plus new springs, although I am wary of spending money and effort when it may need replacing in the next couple of years. Not a common engine and not many experienced guys around with this engine, although it was fitted to the FX4D London taxi for about 10 years. Spare parts are sparse and at a premium, £64 for a set of spring and over £100 per piston replacement. Cheers guys JohnT

Thank you for your input so far, if I recall correctly some of the suppliers of the test equipment used to supply a book with the normal or new figures and a midrange to knackered figure, if any of you have any direct experience of testing this engine and the pressure range it would be of great assistance. What many of you have written is good theory, although in reality of little use if you do not take into account valve timing as well. it is not really practical to work out a theorectical figure. They are usually based on the manufacturers/importers actuall readings. The only real way is perhaps to contact Thornycroft and very nicely ask for the info! Thanks again for replies so far. JohnT

I want to check out the condition of my engine (BMC Commander2.52ltr) does anyone know the PSI minimum limits and the norm. I have been told its prob going to be 250psi+. Nothing in the manual but it does indicate a compression ratio of 19.5 - 1. Many thanks JohnT

Hi Steve sorry mate my wrong assumption, sending u the manual I have , I think as the valves are the same as the A.C. U type I described it is the same procedure, the manual says "use a screwdriver or suiatble tool to remove the valves(they are only rubber with a metal retention ring(see page 105 of the manual) You are quite right, with this type there is NO gauze filter! As you will see by the time of this post I am now workin overtime and as the brain cell is becoming inebreaited as well it's time to go to bed, off tomorrow to my own boat (on the Broads, dont tell anyone) see u in a couple of weeks, enjoy your fixed engine. JohnT not Tony??

Hi Steve Well done you seem to have found the problem. the lift pump should have a flat circular gauze that is under the top plate that has one centre screw. I have seen a couple of different retention systems for the valves, one has a kind of shaped plate that has a finger on the bottom of each valve and a screw to retain the plate(obviously not this one or you would have seen it) the other type you just lever the valves out with a screw driver. Very often knackers them, so only remove if they are suspect. if you have a couple of pumps that have dried out(not had fuel in them for some time) it would be worth soaking them with WD40 for a couple of days before attempting to remove. If you need further guidence I can email an engine manual that shows an exploded diagram and words and music to overhaul, just pm me your email address. I am certainly no expert on propping but I would say it is probably overpropped on purpose to keep the revs down and the engine working(also helps with the noise and economy) if youre happy with the speed it can achieve don't worry about it! The smoke is probably just unburnt diesel and quite normal with these old engines, if you get smoke whilst its running under load(and its warmed up!) then it may be a different matter! Well done again your perseverence has paid dividends and saved you ££££££s JohnT

Hi Steve did you clean and check the gauze strainer in the fuel lift pump? ( and the diaphram, for holes splits etc). Had the engine just previous to your purchase been serviced, or had the tappets reset? It would seem the fuel is ok from your answers (although your tank probably has an amount of water in the bottom as do many, but from your answer re Agliometer it is not causing a problem at the moment) When the engine drops to a low idle is there any additional smoke, or any misfiring? As its a little difficult gettin your lips round the filler cap and blowin to check the tank breather is clear, I would loosen the cap on next cruise just to eliminate it! Have you spoken to the pump engineers and explained the problem? I assume you have checked for fuel leaks and tighteness of all joints? JohnT

Hi Steve starting with the obvious, 1. is the gearbox going into neutralwhen the throttle is shut off (have a look over the stern and check for no wash either way) 2. It could be fuel starvation, check by loosening your filler slightly for your run over an hour or two. 3. Blow back the fuel line to the tank to ensure good supply. Did the engine bleed easily when put back together? was there any debris-water in the agliometer (not sure on the spelling!) have you dipped the tank for a fuel sample? (is it red is it diesel and how much water is in it (does the exhaust show white smoke while running most of the time, especially when starting?) The problem is there, we just havnt found the answer YET! JohnT

Hi Tom &Sophie I have seen aquatic(fish tank) pumps at this kind of output and often 12v(many of them plug into a 240-12v converter), worth a look. Or as a temp measure a windscreen wash pump? JohnT

So long as he/she fixes it first time and to a budget!! Remember a techie in the garage(he had two years at college before starting practical garage work) spent two hours trying to start a car and changed everything, a first year apprentice asked him "any petrol in it?" very red face JohnT

Another good tip for starting a tap in thin material (or if you do not have a good 'eye') is to run a nut up the tap and then hold the nut flat to the surface you are starting to tap, start the tap into the metal. If you get it "cock eyed" it can strip when tightened. I was always taught 'half a turn forward - quarter of a turn back' I still clearly remember the whacks on my hands from the 'mad metalwork teacher (or should that read beater)' for going past a half turn, treading on a white line around a machine, dragging your file back across a piece of metal without lifting it,etc ,etc funny the guy 'fell down the stairs' but it was not me, but I know a man who did! JohnT

Have you an answer yet Patrick? JohnT

Breals are you sure your system "uses" water all systems expand and expel fluid, try leaving it for a few engine working days and see if the fall stops (it usually does) my boat stops about 1"1/2 below ths filler cap (due to expansion). Having drained and refilled last year use a hydrometer to check the strength and drain and top up accordingly. JohnT

Thanks Dave allready found them but unfortunately they do not cover my model. Thanks for your interest and help. JohnT Thanks Gary found some of the products but did not see any user manuals, or is it me! Ken has pm'd me to say he has both manuals and is emailing them to me. This forum continues to amaze me with the ever willing members who come up with almost everything you could want!!

Hi Folks I have a Mobitronic battery charger model number 925-12TD and a 1500watt Inverter model number 8150-012PPuk fitted to my boat and no manuals, looked all over but can not find em! Have Mobitronic gone out of business as their products seem to have been withdrawn from the Weaco site? If anyone can help with PDF version or link if not a photo copy and i will pay costs. Many thanks for your help i n advance JohnT

Many thanks Tony, exactly what I wanted and free to boot! (no im not from yorkshire!!) Cheers JohnT