bilge pump float sensor

[agag]

Hi again,

 

How do i secure the bilge pump and the float sensor that came with it on the bottom of the boat?

Found them both floating in 2 inches of water the other day!

 

And while we are at the subject of bilge pumps, how do I clean up the last bit of water that the bilge pump cannot suck out?

Do I just get used to have 15mm of water at the bottom of my engine compartment?

 

 

Thanks again

 

ag

[mrsmelly]

Hi again,

 

How do i secure the bilge pump and the float sensor that came with it on the bottom of the boat?

Found them both floating in 2 inches of water the other day!

 

And while we are at the subject of bilge pumps, how do I clean up the last bit of water that the bilge pump cannot suck out?

Do I just get used to have 15mm of water at the bottom of my engine compartment?

 

 

Thanks again

 

ag

 

 

Hi

 

Get a small square of gash steel plate and either bolt or glue them to it, simples

 

Tim

[Keeping Up]

Mine are each secured with a blob of silicone sealant. Of course you have to get everything dry before it will stick.

 

I believe it is deliberate (or making a virtue from a necessity, as marketing people do) that they don't suck out the last bit, so that any traces of oil on the surface will not be pumped out into the canal/river.

[PaulD]

And while we are at the subject of bilge pumps, how do I clean up the last bit of water that the bilge pump cannot suck out?

Do I just get used to have 15mm of water at the bottom of my engine compartment?

 

ag

 

Mop!

 

Paul

[ditchcrawler]

Mine are each secured with a blob of silicone sealant. Of course you have to get everything dry before it will stick.

 

I believe it is deliberate (or making a virtue from a necessity, as marketing people do) that they don't suck out the last bit, so that any traces of oil on the surface will not be pumped out into the canal/river.

So if you have half an inch of water and an inch of oil what gets pumped the water below the pump of the oil above?

[agag]

Mine are each secured with a blob of silicone sealant. Of course you have to get everything dry before it will stick.

 

I believe it is deliberate (or making a virtue from a necessity, as marketing people do) that they don't suck out the last bit, so that any traces of oil on the surface will not be pumped out into the canal/river.

 

THis seems like an easy way to do it. Will dry it well and use some silicon sealant.

 

 

Cheers

[jake_crew]

A brick on top ?

[bottle]

Cheap, disposable nappies will remove the last of the water and oil (if any).

 

ps. if you keep getting lots of water in there, check the stern gland adjustment and the greaser. If you have that type.

Edited November 22, 2012 by bottle

[Chalky]

Cheap, disposable nappies will remove the last of the water and oil (if any).

 

ps. if you keep getting lots of water in there, check the stern gland adjustment and the greaser. If you have that type.

 

Also check for things like the PRV on the calorifier - the overflow may be into the engine bilge so that the bilge pump will dispose of it. It's how ours works (until this weekend anyway) and has caused some confusion in the past.

[by'eck]

Don't just rely on float switch - wire pump with a three way (manual-off-auto) switch so it can be operated manually. This will allow as much water as possible to be pumped out and gives redundancy in likely case of float switch failure.

Edited November 22, 2012 by by'eck

[ditchcrawler]

Don't just rely on float switch - wire pump with a three way (manual-off-auto) switch so it can be operated manually. This will allow as much water as possible to be pumped out and gives redundancy in likely case of float switch failure.

http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine/bilge-pump-switches/bilge-pump-switch-panel-504192

[bottle]

Don't just rely on float switch - wire pump with a three way (manual-off-auto) switch so it can be operated manually. This will allow as much water as possible to be pumped out and gives redundancy in likely case of float switch failure.

 

Whilst a good idea, I would advise it would be better to wire a switch (on/off) in parallel with the float and not the three way.

 

Reason the auto is always on and cannot be turned off or forgotten to be turned on after manual use.

 

My float switch and pump are directly wired to the battery, via a fuse, so no chance of the auto not working, unless of course the fuse blows or the pump blocks

[Grace and Favour]

THis seems like an easy way to do it. Will dry it well and use some silicon sealant.

 

 

Cheers

 

Glue a couple of magnets to the bottom (side) of your pump - that way they'll keep the pump firmly on the baseplate.

 

(If you use silicon on any paint surface - it'll simply stick to the paint - not the steel - - and could lift free just when you don't want it to!)

[agag]

Glue a couple of magnets to the bottom (side) of your pump - that way they'll keep the pump firmly on the baseplate.

 

(If you use silicon on any paint surface - it'll simply stick to the paint - not the steel - - and could lift free just when you don't want it to!)

 

This an is even better idea!

[smileypete]

I bought a cheap large plastic chopping board and tie-wrapped the bilge pump, float switch, a block paving brick, and a loop of thin rope to it.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited November 22, 2012 by smileypete

[by'eck]

Whilst a good idea, I would advise it would be better to wire a switch (on/off) in parallel with the float and not the three way.

 

Reason the auto is always on and cannot be turned off or forgotten to be turned on after manual use.

 

My float switch and pump are directly wired to the battery, via a fuse, so no chance of the auto not working, unless of course the fuse blows or the pump blocks

 

Good point and ironically how mine is wired (but not by me). As a consequence I still haven't found the battery feed or its fuse to the solid state pump switch - just a matter of getting around to it.

 

BTW you forgot to mention float switch failure, which I would regard with greater likelihood than fuse blowing, pump failing or simply forgetting to leave the system powered.

 

I do prefer the option of being able to turn every individual item off, but that's just me.

[keble]

Glue a couple of magnets to the bottom (side) of your pump - that way they'll keep the pump firmly on the baseplate.

 

(If you use silicon on any paint surface - it'll simply stick to the paint - not the steel - - and could lift free just when you don't want it to!)

Brilliant idea! I'm out of greenies, consider it a virtual one

[bottle]

BTW you forgot to mention float switch failure, which I would regard with greater likelihood than fuse blowing, pump failing or simply forgetting to leave the system powered.

 

Good point.

 

but

 

Had to leave something for someone to pick up on.