T port ball valve

[by'eck]

Can anyone suggest where I can obtain a 15mm three port "T" manual ball valve with compression fittings to interface with 15mm copper tubing.

 

I need to re-plumb my engine to calorifier loop. Its presently in the thermostat bypass loop with a gate valve controlling a short bypass across the circuit. Although this short circuits the calorifier loop it remains in parallel with the bypass.

 

I need the valve to provide normal flow via thermostat bypass to the calorifier loop in one position and complete interruption of flow to calorifier with local bypass in the other. The latter to provide quick warm up and inhibit thermo siphon back to stationary engine when calorifier heated by immersion or Mikuni. It must be a "T" port as the more common "L" port won't interface well with the existing plumbing.

[ditchcrawler]

Can anyone suggest where I can obtain a 15mm three port "T" manual ball valve with compression fittings to interface with 15mm copper tubing.

 

I need to re-plumb my engine to calorifier loop. Its presently in the thermostat bypass loop with a gate valve controlling a short bypass across the circuit. Although this short circuits the calorifier loop it remains in parallel with the bypass.

 

I need the valve to provide normal flow via thermostat bypass to the calorifier loop in one position and complete interruption of flow to calorifier with local bypass in the other. The latter to provide quick warm up and inhibit thermo siphon back to stationary engine when calorifier heated by immersion or Mikuni. It must be a "T" port as the more common "L" port won't interface well with the existing plumbing.

ASAP Supplies have 1/2"

[GSer]

A bv2000 from johnson valves might be the kiddy?

[by'eck]

A bv2000 from johnson valves might be the kiddy?

 

Many thanks - that should do it.

 

Thanks also to ditchcrawlers suggestion. Unfortunately that's an "L" port valve. I need a "T" port so the flow is straight through in one position and via the third port and 90° in the other.

[The Bagdad Boatman (waits)]

if you cannot find a specialist valve think about 2 or more isolation ball valves. Draw out the pipe diagram and work out how to close the different flows.

[ditchcrawler]

Many thanks - that should do it.

 

Thanks also to ditchcrawlers suggestion. Unfortunately that's an "L" port valve. I need a "T" port so the flow is straight through in one position and via the third port and 90° in the other.

You cant get rid of me that easily see this Lets see if this fits the bill

Edited November 17, 2012 by ditchcrawler

[smileypete]

Try also eBay or everyvalve. If you can post a diagram or pictures there might be other solutions.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

[by'eck]

You cant get rid of me that easily see this Lets see if this fits the bill

 

Many thanks again and at a better price. From the description I will need to rotate ball 180° before re-fitting handle to allow only single outlet in either position, but I've done that before without issue.

 

One further problem is that I can't find 15mm compression x ½" BSP male straight couplings on the ASAP site. I will need three but they only list metric thread to imperial compression not vice versa. I have found them elsewhere but want to avoid multiple P & P charges.

 

In fact I can't even find the T port valve again without using your link. Why are the search engines on these sites so poor?

[bizzard]

Many thanks again and at a better price. From the description I will need to rotate ball 180° before re-fitting handle to allow only single outlet in either position, but I've done that before without issue.

 

One further problem is that I can't find 15mm compression x ½" BSP male straight couplings on the ASAP site. I will need three but they only list metric thread to imperial compression not vice versa. I have found them elsewhere but want to avoid multiple P & P charges.

 

In fact I can't even find the T port valve again without using your link. Why are the search engines on these sites so poor?

By'eck have you tried BES.

[by'eck]

Try also eBay or everyvalve. If you can post a diagram or pictures there might be other solutions.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

 

Thanks Pete

 

 

This is the present arrangement fitted at my request by the builder. The upper pipe is the thermostat bypass feed to the calorifier coil. The lower the return to water pump. As you can see the gate valve when open short circuits this loop. The reason for fitting was to allow the choice of normal heating of water by engine coolant or a quick warm up and the ability to kill thermo siphon from calorifier when its on immersion and engine stationary. It achieves these goals to some degree but not as efficiently as I would like since the calorifier loop always remains in parallel. I also have engine overcooling issues but that's another story.

 

My intention is to replace the gate valve with short length of 15mm pipe from lower T piece. Then remove the upper T piece and fit the above mentioned two position three (T) port valve in its place to allow either:

 

A direct feed from the thermostat bypass to water pump for quick warm up whilst completely breaking the calorifier loop.

 

The calorifier loop in circuit with a straight feed through the valve.

[bizzard]

Thanks Pete

 

 

This is the present arrangement fitted at my request by the builder. The upper pipe is the thermostat bypass feed to the calorifier coil. The lower the return to water pump. As you can see the gate valve when open short circuits this loop. The reason for fitting was to allow the choice of normal heating of water by engine coolant or a quick warm up and the ability to kill thermo siphon from calorifier when its on immersion and engine stationary. It achieves these goals to some degree but not as efficiently as I would like since the calorifier loop always remains in parallel. I also have engine overcooling issues but that's another story.

 

My intention is to replace the gate valve with short length of 15mm pipe from lower T piece. Then remove the upper T piece and fit the above mentioned two position three (T) port valve in its place to allow either:

 

A direct feed from the thermostat bypass to water pump for quick warm up whilst completely breaking the calorifier loop.

 

The calorifier loop in circuit with a straight feed through the valve.

That fuel pipe looks like its about to be sawn in half by the ringgear.

[David Mack]

One further problem is that I can't find 15mm compression x ½" BSP male straight couplings on the ASAP site. I will need three but they only list metric thread to imperial compression not vice versa. I have found them elsewhere but want to avoid multiple P & P charges.

 

Its ASAP part no. 304569 at £4.21 + VAT each. Or £1.69 inc VAT at Screwfix part no 69358.

[by'eck]

That fuel pipe looks like its about to be sawn in half by the ringgear.

 

Yeh it looks like that in the photo but its two inches above and well supported.

 

Ordered couplings from BES and valve from ASAP BTW. Turns out the couplings were cheaper than ASAP ones despite postage and shorter which makes the installation more compact.

 

Thanks to all.

[smileypete]

I also have engine overcooling issues but that's another story.

I remember now, was it two keel cooling tanks connected by 22mm pipework, and you fitted a bypass thermostat, how did it go?

 

Nice neat pipework BTW.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

[onionbargee]

screwfix sell them, 15mm compression t port washing machine valve.

Edited November 19, 2012 by onionbargee

[by'eck]

I remember now, was it two keel cooling tanks connected by 22mm pipework, and you fitted a bypass thermostat, how did it go?

 

Nice neat pipework BTW.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

 

No that must have been someone else.

[smileypete]

No that must have been someone else.

Is the overcooling just related to the calorifier then?

 

Problem with the current setup is that as the water goes round the tees at 90° it creates a pressure drop, so there's always some pressure across the calorifier connections.

 

Thinking about the above, you could leave the 2 way gate valve in place and have a 2 way valve full bore ball valve in the calorifer flow/return as well.

 

Even if the gate valve is fully open there will still be a pressure difference across the calorifer connections to drive water though the calorifer coil, you could always close the 2 way valve a little if it's not enough.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited November 20, 2012 by smileypete

[by'eck]

Is the overcooling just related to the calorifier then?

 

Problem with the current setup is that as the water goes round the tees at 90° it creates a pressure drop, so there's always some pressure across the calorifier connections.

 

Thinking about the above, you could leave the 2 way gate valve in place and have a 2 way valve full bore ball valve in the calorifer flow/return as well.

 

Even if the gate valve is fully open there will still be a pressure difference across the calorifer connections to drive water though the calorifer coil, you could always close the 2 way valve a little if it's not enough.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

 

Hi Pete, the overcooling issue is not just down to the calorifier loop, which is in the thermostat bypass circuit anyway. Opening the present valve does allow engine to run at a higher temperature but only by about 10°C, so I rarely see over 55°C on the water rail, the highest being 65°C whilst cruising and running washing machine via alternators/inverter.

 

The problem seems to lie with the wax thermostat since I can see (with infra-red thermometer) and feel similar temperature in the pipes of the main skin tank circuit. This can be felt with engine at only 40°C.

 

I have removed the thermostat to test and can confirm its fully open just over 70°C and fully closed by 62°C which seems about right for a 74°C stat to me. The only other issue was the 4.5mm bypass bleed hole that has been drilled in it which seemed a bit large but shouldn't have caused the issues.

 

Nevertheless we are going to fit another 80°C stat with a 2mm bleed hole.

 

BTW received "T" port valve today so will post picture when its fitted although I realise it won't cure the overcooling issue it will make warm-ups quicker.

[smileypete]

Hi Pete, the overcooling issue is not just down to the calorifier loop, which is in the thermostat bypass circuit anyway. Opening the present valve does allow engine to run at a higher temperature but only by about 10°C, so I rarely see over 55°C on the water rail, the highest being 65°C whilst cruising and running washing machine via alternators/inverter.

 

The problem seems to lie with the wax thermostat since I can see (with infra-red thermometer) and feel similar temperature in the pipes of the main skin tank circuit. This can be felt with engine at only 40°C.

 

I have removed the thermostat to test and can confirm its fully open just over 70°C and fully closed by 62°C which seems about right for a 74°C stat to me. The only other issue was the 4.5mm bypass bleed hole that has been drilled in it which seemed a bit large but shouldn't have caused the issues.

 

Nevertheless we are going to fit another 80°C stat with a 2mm bleed hole.

 

BTW received "T" port valve today so will post picture when its fitted although I realise it won't cure the overcooling issue it will make warm-ups quicker.

Yes, does sound like the bypass hole is a bit too big, but I'd also check the thermostat is the right way round with the spring/wax capsule pointing toward the engine/direction of flow. Otherwise if the spring is not so stiff it might start to open under pressure from the pump.

 

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

[by'eck]

Yes, does sound like the bypass hole is a bit too big, but I'd also check the thermostat is the right way round with the spring/wax capsule pointing toward the engine/direction of flow. Otherwise if the spring is not so stiff it might start to open under pressure from the pump.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

 

Thanks for suggestion, but yes it was the right way around.

[by'eck]

Valve now installed - shown in calorifier bypass position