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Eberspacher for quick heat


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We have a slight problem.

 

We had our corner bubble stove running for a couple of days when it hit freezing point here, no problem there plenty hot enough when up to speed, a good 2 hours. Later in the evening we turned it down on the lowest setting, overnight though it was just too hot, so I turned off a couple of rads, the outside temp had risen to 6 C by morning and got even hotter, so we eventually turned it off. The thing is the bubble is on low, turning rads off won't make it go lower or use less fuel, I also turned down the water temp, but likewise it's already on a low flame.

 

 

We've been intending to fit an Eberspacher anyway, and were thinking of going for the D4 3.5 to 4KW what I don't know is how adjustable this unit is, can you get a really low heat from it?

 

Also I'm now thinking will the D2 version do the job, we've mostly been using a 2KW leccy fire but running on the low setting @ 1KW and mostly this is enough to heat the boat if the outside temp is around 8c or above.

 

We are on dry land at the moment though, but the hull is off the ground and does get really cold, so must be similar to canal temperatures.

 

Opinions most welcome.

 

 

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Eberspacher/Webasto/Mikuni are all the same in needing ideally to run flat out. They do have an automatic tick over mode indicated by lower fan speed, but long term this can causes sooting up of burner requiring more regular maintenance. For this reason its best to choose a lower power version that will spend most of its time working flat-out.

 

Unless using them as primary heating source its usually possible to provide a regime to work around this e.g. my Mikuni MX40 is set to come on at 0630 - it takes between one and a half to two hours to heat boat to set temp. As the timer switches it off at 0900, it rarely has to fire up again or go into tick over.

 

In the summer keeping the bathroom towel rail on provides an adequate heat sink to keep it running flat out long enough to heat calorifier water.

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If you plan to keep the bubble then get the smallest eber that is available, run one or both.

 

I meant to say, the Bubble stove will be staying, this is secondary heating I'm wanting, something quicker but not as hot as the bubble.

 

Anyone out there running a D" Eber?

 

 

 

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I meant to say, the Bubble stove will be staying, this is secondary heating I'm wanting, something quicker but not as hot as the bubble.

 

Anyone out there running a D" Eber?

we are running a D4 on a 65' NB it keeps the boat warm enough and is temp controlled by its own sensor, we control the heat by setting the thermostatic rad valves.

 

I agree. We might run our Eber on chilly mornings buf as soon as it gies into low power mode we turn it iff.

These are nit boiledS to give low heat outputs. Use electric if on mains.

if using the eber to warm up on cold mornings it should be left to run for at least an hour or it will coke up.

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D4W used as only heat source for 2 yrs, serviced 4 times in that time.

cut my own gaskets 3 times, total cost for all 3 services £15.

Last time i did I fitted genuine gaskets, they were £20 ish IIRC. Only tested it once since.

 

Expensive or just a pain the A, theyre for summer whne you dont want to run your fire or engine ;)

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Thanks for all the input.

 

It seems that there's not much difference in price for a D2 or D4 so it makes sense to go for the D4

 

I only want heat really as the bubble stove is connected to the calorifier. Thinking about it I didn' have the hot water on the other day, so the bubble was only heating rads and not the calorifier, I'll await for another cold spell to see how it goes whilst heating the water as well.

 

I'm not too worried about service costs as I reckon I could easily service an Eberspacher myself. There's a chap on e-bay who sells refurbished units with all the bits needed for around half the cost £600 ish of a new one, so I'm temped to buy from him as he has sold hundreds with excellent feedback.

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Personally I found its the initial heat up phase that causes the sooting, if you can sustain the power and fuel needed to keep the little bugger going it burned cleaner once the water circuit was hot and could slow down, mine would run continously till the power died or you switched it off, it wasnt on a timer.

lf the slow warmup causes problems, it might be possible to use a thermostatic valve to bypass warm water back to the heater, bit like how a car engine warms up.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited by smileypete
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Our Mikuni has been transformed by using ULSD, I'm so glad we didn't give up on it, we were close to doing so but if we had we wouldn't have realised our problems would be cured by using ULSD and we would now be in the 'these heaters are crap' camp.

 

Another one for my sampling, thanks, there is more and more evidence that this is the case and I am seeing less and less carbon build up in the heaters I service, year old new fits are far better than has been the case, the cases where diesel ones were fitted to petrol boats and run on paraffin have always been far less prone as have motorhome ones run on road fuel.

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We are on dry land at the moment though, but the hull is off the ground and does get really cold, so must be similar to canal temperatures.

 

Opinions most welcome.

 

Your boat being in the water will provide a degree of insulation. :cheers:

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