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Propeller nut loosened


RLWP

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There should be no need to overtighten the nut, replace with a new nut and fit a new split pin. I also lightly grease before reasembly.If you suspect a problem when out cruising,stop and check through the weed hatch.If you have lost the pin or nut you can get home by not going into astern.Props can be very expensive to replace if lost it is a good idea to carry a spare prop,key,nut and pin. CKP

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There should be no need to overtighten the nut, replace with a new nut and fit a new split pin. I also lightly grease before reasembly.If you suspect a problem when out cruising,stop and check through the weed hatch.If you have lost the pin or nut you can get home by not going into astern.Props can be very expensive to replace if lost it is a good idea to carry a spare prop,key,nut and pin. CKP

 

We usually carry plenty of spare parts but surely carrying a spare prop is a bit OTT . . .

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We usually carry plenty of spare parts but surely carrying a spare prop is a bit OTT . . .

Wildly so I would say, and no use if the shaft shears, better carry a spare. No hang on you couldn't change it afloat so best tow a tug just in case.

 

Whilst I'm at it, what's this grease business? The idea of a taper is that as the nut tightens it forces the two halves of the taper into an interferance fit, grease will knacker that and oblige the key to transmit the drive which it is not supposed to do.

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We usually carry plenty of spare parts but surely carrying a spare prop is a bit OTT . . .

I used to be under propped so when drydocking and having to have a new prop shaft I went for the max diameter prop that would fit and slightly greater pitch. However, it meant my old prop would no longer fit so I swopped it for one slightly imbetween the old and new for a spare. I am slightly overpropped now and have yet to try the spare!

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Wildly so I would say, and no use if the shaft shears, better carry a spare. No hang on you couldn't change it afloat so best tow a tug just in case.

 

Whilst I'm at it, what's this grease business? The idea of a taper is that as the nut tightens it forces the two halves of the taper into an interferance fit, grease will knacker that and oblige the key to transmit the drive which it is not supposed to do.

 

Where the hell have you been....at last someone who knows what he's talking about. I've been struggling away against all these DIY bodgers who dont understand why a taper fit is used in the first place.

 

Greasing it so it comes off easy is not what is supposed to happen. Drilling holes all over the shaft is not what is supposed to happen, and doing your nuts up with tools that detroy the nut in the process is not supposed to happen either. On top of that doing what your doing because some oaf in a boatyard says thats what you do is also not good.

 

Oh and Richard.....you had a poroblem with your prop wobbling loose a couple of times in the last 12 months or so...did you find out why or did you just wack it up a bit tighter...I'm not sure what the outcome was.

Edited by Evo
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One for the experienced ones I think.

 

Tawny Owl is in dry dock for blacking at Hatton this week. We popped around to do a bit of fettling and to scrape and undercoat for the tunnel bands. And...

 

The prop nut has come loose again. Sue thought she could hear a clonk when we used reverse last time we were out, which is the symptom we got last time it was loose. I tightened it up F*!*!king tight with a Stilson last time

 

Why does it keep doing this? Anyone?

 

What sort of split pin should I be using?

 

Richard

 

Well, just to impress you even more, I've quoted my very first post in this thread. The clues are the words in red

 

Richard

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nb-innissfree

 

Some people have jumped off buildings and survived. Others have put a noose round their neck and swung in doorways and survived, and some have even shot themselves in the head and survived.

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This has now become unbelievably tiresome, so I'm asking for this thread to be locked.

 

Thanks to everyone for their contributions.

 

Richard

Only thing I can add is that while applying force to tighten, tap each side of the prop boss with 2 hammers to help it seat on the taper.

 

After using the boat for a while, check and retighten through the weed hatch if possible.

 

Sounds like the vibration and back thrust when running is pushing the prop further up the taper, allowing the nut to become loose.

 

If the above fails and the taper fits the prop OK I'd get some advice from a prop manufacturer. I'd also try to get a 1/2" drive socket to fit the prop nut.

 

cheers,

Pete.

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This has now become unbelievably tiresome, so I'm asking for this thread to be locked.

 

Thanks to everyone for their contributions.

 

Richard

 

Indeed - question is will Carl get a post in before it is?

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I cant agree with your sentiments Richard, I think you have done the forum a great service in demonstrating (with pics) what not to do....but more importantly you've pointed out that some people doing it semi profesionally dont know what they are doing either.

 

An excellent popular thread, I thought exactly what you and your cohorts were after.. :P

Edited by Evo
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nb-innissfree

 

Some people have jumped off buildings and survived. Others have put a noose round their neck and swung in doorways and survived, and some have even shot themselves in the head and survived.

 

I was only relating my personal experience, not trying to tell anyone how to do it.

 

As for your other post suggesting we are all DIY bodgers I can assure you that there are plenty of bodgers out there who claim to be professionals, what proof do you have that you don't belong to that category?

Edited by nb Innisfree
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I've been struggling away against all these DIY bodgers

 

 

but more importantly you've pointed out that some people doing it semi profesionally dont know what they are doing either.

 

 

That desperate to ride it, I didn't bother with straightening the badly bent frame. Wacked in some second hand forks/wheel patched up the fairing, welded the rad and clipons and then used it for a year. Had to jab the brake one day in a corner and it immediately went on to 3 cylinders. The front tyre had smashed the lower right spark plug in half.
Edited by Chris Pink
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