Boat engine sunk

[John Smyth]

My beta38 sunk for 2 days before it was raised. On the Grand union and I am working 100 miles away. Some friends passing rescued it and replaced the starter and alternator. As they didn't,t have a key they hot wired it and it runs. I have paid and thanked them so much. Now I need some advice. 1: I ,m replacing the batteries.  2: reflush and change the oil and filters twice.  3 : remove all diesel from the tank. 4: change all coolant. 5: pump out all waters.  Can someone advise me of any further work before I move Susu back to Bath? Thanks johnsmythatc@gmail.com

 

[MtB]

42 minutes ago, John Smyth said:

My beta38 sunk for 2 days before it was raised. On the Grand union and I am working 100 miles away. Some friends passing rescued it and replaced the starter and alternator. As they didn't,t have a key they hot wired it and it runs. I have paid and thanked them so much. Now I need some advice. 1: I ,m replacing the batteries.  2: reflush and change the oil and filters twice.  3 : remove all diesel from the tank. 4: change all coolant. 5: pump out all waters.  Can someone advise me of any further work before I move Susu back to Bath? Thanks johnsmythatc@gmail.com

 

 

I doubt the coolant needs changing. Or even the batteries if they still work ok. 

Hard to comment on changing the diesel. Did the filler and air vent go underwater during the sinking? If not then probably no need to do anything to the fuel. Oil and filter change in both engine and gearbox (not mentioned) I'd say is essential though.

I'd be inclined to test-cruise quite a few miles back and forth before setting out on the trip via the tidal Thames though. 

 

P.S. Welcome to the forum!

[mad dog n' Englishman]

It may also be a good idea to work out what caused it to sink and put this right before you do anything else. Don't want to go through it all over again next week.

[Bee]

Absolutely change oil, probably gearbox oil too, all electrical connections could do with a checkover and spray with WD40, multiplug and that fuse thing by the side if it has one, also the solenoid that turns off the fuel if it has one, everything really, run it up to temperature, I wonder if it might be an idea to run it without the oil filler cap on to ventilate the damp out of it as well? Oh, I'd take the air filter out and dry it all off otherwise its just sucking in damp air or even worse, solid water.

[Tam & Di]

I'd make sure the bottom of the engine is watertight so it doesn't sink again.   

[MtB]

36 minutes ago, Tam & Di said:

I'd make sure the bottom of the engine is watertight so it doesn't sink again.   

 

Good point. 

Expecting a Beta 38 to float at all is a bit ambitious however, what with it being made of cast iron (mostly).

[WotEver]

45 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Good point. 

Expecting a Beta 38 to float at all is a bit ambitious however, what with it being made of cast iron (mostly).

Just look at what happened to Titanic. 

[zenataomm]

There is no finite number of times you need to change the oil after a dunking, keep doing it until it stops emulsifying.

[John Smyth]

Thank you all for the good advice.I,lol keep you posted.

[Mikexx]

On 12/04/2018 at 13:30, zenataomm said:

There is no finite number of times you need to change the oil after a dunking, keep doing it until it stops emulsifying.

 

A hint of mayonnaise in engine oil, assuming a high temperature thermostat, will cure itself.

That might not be the case for gearbox oil!