WotEver Posted January 10, 2018 Report Share Posted January 10, 2018 5 minutes ago, Johny London said: Thanks - that will work fine, but if I need to shorten one of the other bits then the flare on the end will stop me removing the nut I'll certainly expect to shorten the connection between the filter and pump, so that might be the only sticking point. I guess you’d have two choices. Leave the nut in place (with some tape around it to stop it rattling around) or cut it off (carefully) with a hacksaw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted January 11, 2018 Report Share Posted January 11, 2018 If your filter has 1/4" or 3/8" BSP ports like the ones I use then there is no need to have a flare on the inlet and outlet, simply use a 1/4 or 3/8 BSP to 5mm compression fitting with a plain end on the pipe, don't forget the pump should be as close to the tank as practical, they prefer pushing to pulling fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johny London Posted January 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 That's a good tip - about the fittings. As it happens I have today been fitting the fuel pipe, and I was trying to work with the pre cut/flared lengths that I ordered. It has turned out quite well. I have 3m going back to the pump, then a neat little 0.5m between pump and filter. The last bit I have (which is 1.5m) I will cut down and put the non flared end in the tank (it'll be 0.5m or so). So the required max of 1.2m to the pump should be adhered to, and I wont need to do any messing around with flares or olives. It's going quite nicely though must be the longest install in history. Exhaust tomorrow, wiring after that. One snag - I bought 22mm id hose to hook up from the speedfit to the heater, but looks as though it's outlets are some kind of odd size - about 18/19mm? Any advice? Can I fudge the 22mm hose with a good tight clip and some gunk? I don't want to end up having to de-pressurize and re do later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 7 minutes ago, Johny London said: some kind of odd size - about 18/19mm? 3/4”? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 1 minute ago, WotEver said: 3/4”? Ahhhh - a proper size. You know where you are with inches. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 18 minutes ago, Johny London said: One snag - I bought 22mm id hose to hook up from the speedfit to the heater, but looks as though it's outlets are some kind of odd size - about 18/19mm? Any advice? Can I fudge the 22mm hose with a good tight clip and some gunk? I don't want to end up having to de-pressurize and re do later. The pump inlet and coolant outlet are actually 20mm and the Webasto hose supplied with the kits is 20mm bore, it is sufficiently malleable to slip over 22mm tube, however that is not the correct way, you really should be getting a 19mm hosetail fitted to the feed ad return tubes. This is normally done using a 3/4 BSPM to 22mm compression fitting and a 3/4BSPf to 19mm hosetail. Though I usually make the interface at the bulkhead using a similar affair but with flange nuts either side of the bulkhead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canals are us? Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 (edited) If you haven't already thought of this fit 2x 22mm full bore lever valves on the flow and return just before the heater to facilitate removing the heater for servicing and not having to drain the entire system down and having to buy more inhibitor and antifreeze mixture. James Edited January 22, 2018 by canals are us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johny London Posted January 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 Thank you guys - actually yes James, I have put 22mm full bore lever valves on - I quite forgot! I'm struggling to finf the bspm hosetails Wouldn't they both be 22mm at one end though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 Its female BSP hosetails you need, they screw onto the 3/4 bspm to 22mm compression fittings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 16 minutes ago, Johny London said: I'm struggling to finf the bspm hosetails https://gasproducts.co.uk/plumbing/compression-pipe-fittings/22mm-compression-x-3-4-148-bsp-female.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAtJbTBRDkARIsAIA0a5NDpQXPIklZn1E0yE8M-6WnnOyiMyeI9oITiAPDEwxLNB8XE-DZJHAaAu7HEALw_wcB plus https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/182787656120?chn=ps&adgroupid=49962971442&rlsatarget=pla-380395544570&abcId=1129946&adtype=pla&merchantid=6995734&poi=&googleloc=1006966&device=m&campaignid=974960578&crdt=0&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-134428-41853-0%2F2%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fi%252F182787656120%253Fchn%253Dps%26itemid%3D182787656120%26targetid%3D380395544570%26device%3Dm%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D1006966%26poi%3D%26campaignid%3D974960578%26adgroupid%3D49962971442%26rlsatarget%3Dpla-380395544570%26abcId%3D1129946%26merchantid%3D6995734%26gclid%3DCj0KCQiAtJbTBRDkARIsAIA0a5M1CUqX6-LnSxHoa14vTcffiyW2DWeoAn6AYdKJyi3z5P_2SPc_5N8aAkeMEALw_wcB%26srcrot%3D710-134428-41853-0%26rvr_id%3D1422409010120 Other suppliers are available, that was just a quick Google. 42 minutes ago, NMEA said: This is normally done using a 3/4 BSPM to 22mm compression fitting and a 3/4BSPf to 19mm hosetail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johny London Posted January 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 Thanks - now I get it. From the 22mm pipe with a 22mm to 3/4" fitting then a hose with a corresponding 3/4" fitting at one end and just the open hose itself at the other (heater) end which is 19mm id. I found the 22 to 3/4 fitting at Toolstation, so will try to get the other things at a plumbers merchants or something otherwise I really will be still fitting it in spring! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 You could have saved so much time (and probably money) by just buying the correct narrowboat kit in the first place as it has all you really need. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johny London Posted January 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 I know - I just didn't realise the myriad components, bits and pieces that I'd need - it really is quite staggering. The webasto is incredibly fussy and aside from all the specialist parts there are (as you already know nmea) many many things to adhere to as one does the install. However, I have learned something new and it is looking pretty good - won't be long now. And, many thanks for everyones help. I'd still be looking at a box full of bits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johny London Posted January 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 And today I did most of the exhaust - but I couldn't decide on whether to put an extra snake in it or not, so left it for now. I have it going from the bottom of the heater, upwards and round to the silencer which is horizontally mounted. I wonder whether to snake up a bit then back down to the silencer. After the silencer there is a slight incline and out to the skin fitting. Without the extra snake bit it will be a little over a meter plus the silencer. With the extra snakey bit I'm looking at about another 300mm - I wonder if at 1.3m and with three quite significant bends that will be too much - or if the snake up then down is important - it's how the Webasto instructions show it but they also say that you can only have 2m of exhaust (with a silencer fitted) and 500m less for every 90 degree bend in the system - so in a way its kind of impossible to do it how they show. Got most of the wiring done too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 This epic, arrived at a customers boat at 8 this morning, fitted the heater and left at 4. The rads and plumbing were all installed already though otherwise it would have been three days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 The exhaust will be fine with the extra swan neck at the skin fitting which is quite important to stop water ingress, provided you lag it properly to keep the exhaust gasses as hot as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johny London Posted January 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 Hey thanks for that nmea. The snake will be between the heater and exhaust then slight incline from exhaust to outlet - no room for a snake anywhere else I'm afraid! If it doesn't rain tomorrow I'll have another crack at it and finish the wiring. I don't have any exhaust lagging but I guess I can get some later on. The only thing holding me up is I had to re order new hoses and 3/4" things etc, plus the tank fitting seems to be lost. I'm sure if I had all the kit to hand - and knew what I was doing - I could go a lot faster, I'm pretty handy but finding that everything needs to be re learned where a boat is concerned. Still, hoping to get a bit of heat going soon, and get all my stuff dried out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 It will all be good when it' finished, you do seem to taking a pride in getting it right which will pay dividends in reliability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 50 minutes ago, Johny London said: Hey thanks for that nmea. The snake will be between the heater and exhaust then slight incline from exhaust to outlet I hope you mean a slope down from the exhaust (silencer?) to the outlet. If it slopes up you will get water splash and rain going down into the silencer and it will rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jddevel Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 11 hours ago, David Mack said: silencer and it will rust. Condensation forming in cooling exhausts can also be a problem I expect. Same as in car exhausts. Don`t think there`s a cure for that unfortunately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johny London Posted January 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 13 hours ago, David Mack said: I hope you mean a slope down from the exhaust (silencer?) to the outlet. If it slopes up you will get water splash and rain going down into the silencer and it will rust. No, unfortunately not. I put the exhaust skin fitting above the rubbing strake, so it's quite close to the underside of the stern deck floor - no room to go up. It was either that or put it under the rubbing strake - which I think I was advised against (too near water line). Also, I'm going to have far too many 90 degree bends - about 6 (if I do the snake). Meaning my exhaust length should be -1 metre. It seems to be the one bit I just cannot get to meet the fitting recommendations. I'll have another look but I don't think I can get it much better - the distance between the heater and the side of the boat is what it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 Will be OK if the silencer is mounted horizontally with the condensate drain at the bottom as they are made from stainless, also lag well to keep the heat in and reduce condensation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johny London Posted January 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 Thanks - I've got the silencer the right way up as per the writing on it, but I will have another look tomorrow to see if I can improve the arrangement at all - the Webasto manual seems to show it angled as a part of the S itself, but I'll see what I can do. The fuel pipe has come out brilliant - it was quite a long run but I have done it neatly and it goes along under the angle iron that the engine sits on, so it can't get trodden on or anything - and all with the proper clips tapped in with m6 bolts I'll post some pics when I finish. In the meantime I will finish off the wiring - I have the harness in place and just the wires to the pump need extending so not too bad at all really. I see Webasto say that the supply should go straight to the batteries (fused of course) but I wonder whether it would be better on a spare outlet from my 12v consumer unit. I don't really like having extra wire coming straight off the batteries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 There is a very good reason for having an uninteruptable electricity supply. Should power be accidentally turned off when the heater is in full burn then the latent heat would not be dissipated by the coolant and the heat exchanger or ECU could be damaged. I do sometimes take power from the permanent live side of the isolator switch if that is more convenient and neater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johny London Posted January 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 Thanks - a very insightful answer, I guess I'll go off the isolator then, with an in line fuse. It'll be easier anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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