Sink enamel repair kits

[blackrose]

I've noticed a long hairline crack in the enamel of my bathroom sink. I assume it's enameled or perhaps it's a crack in the ceramic itself? I'm not sure what the difference is?

 

Anyway, there seem to be various enamel/ceramic repair kits available. Has anyone used any of these and could they recommend which is best for a hairline crack? Also how do you clean the crack prior to the repair? One bit of advice I read said sugar soap.

 

Thanks

 

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=sink+enamel+repair&oq=sink+enamel+repair&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.5741j0j4&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8#q=sink+enamel+repair+kit&tbm=shop

Edited January 6, 2016 by blackrose

[BEngo]

If the sink is metal it will be enamelled and fairly thin. If the sink is ceramic, and fairly thick, it will be glazed.

 

If it is an enamelled metal basin I will be surprised, but steel, or cast iron bath re-enamellers would be my starting point for a long term job. You could over paint it with one of the specialist products for re-painting enamelled baths, but these do not last long IME. Meticulous preparation is needed.

 

The crack is more likely in the glaze, or in the underlying ceramic. If in the ceramic it will eventually be visible on both sides and there is little you can do about it, short or long term. The basin will eventually leak through the crack

 

As a crack in the glaze, again, there's not much you can do, unless you open the crack up enough to get something in it. A Dremel and a diamond burr would be my weapon of choice. Then fill the resulting trench with Milliput (available from model engineers' suppliers and others).

 

 

I chipped my (white) ceramic shower tray several years ago and refilled the chip with brilliant white Milliput. I can find the repair, but only because I know where it is. Milliput is available in colours and easily mixed so if you are careful a non-white repair can be made once you have the right proportions of colours.

 

N

[Old Son]

I had a glazed clay water cistern on my toilet which started to leak through the glaze. A plumber told me to throw it away and but a new one but it seemed a shame because I could not match the adjacent toilet or basin with anything new. I drained the cistern and painted the inside with bitumen. Worked a treat and is still holding after 4 years.

[Ex Brummie]

Are you sure that you do not have a GRP unit with a cracked gelcoat? If so, then resin may be the only answer.

[George94]

Are you sure that you do not have a GRP unit with a cracked gelcoat? If so, then resin may be the only answer.

 

Blackrose doesn't "do" epoxy.

[blackrose]

 

Blackrose doesn't "do" epoxy.

I certainly use epoxies George, but only for appropriate applications, and definitively not when much better alternatives are available.

 

If the sink is metal it will be enamelled and fairly thin. If the sink is ceramic, and fairly thick, it will be glazed.

 

If it is an enamelled metal basin I will be surprised, but steel, or cast iron bath re-enamellers would be my starting point for a long term job. You could over paint it with one of the specialist products for re-painting enamelled baths, but these do not last long IME. Meticulous preparation is needed.

 

The crack is more likely in the glaze, or in the underlying ceramic. If in the ceramic it will eventually be visible on both sides and there is little you can do about it, short or long term. The basin will eventually leak through the crack

 

As a crack in the glaze, again, there's not much you can do, unless you open the crack up enough to get something in it. A Dremel and a diamond burr would be my weapon of choice. Then fill the resulting trench with Milliput (available from model engineers' suppliers and others).

 

 

I chipped my (white) ceramic shower tray several years ago and refilled the chip with brilliant white Milliput. I can find the repair, but only because I know where it is. Milliput is available in colours and easily mixed so if you are careful a non-white repair can be made once you have the right proportions of colours.

 

N

It's a ceramic sink so I guess the hairline crack is in the glaze. Thanks. I'll just keep using it until I have to replace it.

Edited January 6, 2016 by blackrose

[Joe the plumber]

If the sink is ceramic and has an overflow, it will usually be made in two halves, so even if the top (the bit the water sits in) is cracked, as long as the underside isn't, and it isn't leaking, I wouldn't worry about it. Water may get between the two halves, but unless is can escape past the waste ('plug hole') underneath, it won't do any harm.

[Peter X]

My parents' (ceramic) bathroom basin was cracked on the inside surface upon installation in about 1966 when the builder dropped a hammer into it, but left in place. As we didn't have a lot of money, I presume my father negotiated a discount in return for not expecting the builder to replace it. About 50 years later with no attempt at repair and all of us just learning to ignore the crack, it's still there and doesn't leak.

[blackrose]

Well it's only a feint hairline crack in the glaze and the ceramic is pretty thick so I'm sure it will be fine. I just wondered if any of those repair kits were any good?