Putting insulation into a GRP cabin

[sal garfi]

Hello All,

 

I have had knocking around for some time, some thin, foam camping mats. They're very good insulation when lying on the ground, and the're quite pliable, so I thought I could use them on the ceiling of the bedroom cabin in my Norman 23. But my question is what adhesive should I use?. The ceilings are now clear and clean, so it'll just be a job of cutting the mats to size and glueing them up (and then covering, but that'll be stage two). Any advice?

 

Ta ra,

Sal

[Chewbacka]

Hello All,

 

I have had knocking around for some time, some thin, foam camping mats. They're very good insulation when lying on the ground, and the're quite pliable, so I thought I could use them on the ceiling of the bedroom cabin in my Norman 23. But my question is what adhesive should I use?. The ceilings are now clear and clean, so it'll just be a job of cutting the mats to size and glueing them up (and then covering, but that'll be stage two). Any advice?

 

Ta ra,

Sal

I would use a contact adhesive - toolstation & screwfix can supply. But both surfaces will need to be clean and certainly grease free etc.

I would check the material the mats are made from as polyethylene film or foam does not glue well.

But I would also consider flammability as they may burn easily and fast. When burning they may also 'drip' on to you and produce toxic fumes. So if you do go ahead and use them, I would put cover them with something that will give a degree of protection to give you a chance to get out. What were you thinking of covering them with?

[Alan de Enfield]

Our GRP cruiser is insulated with 'silver coated bubble wrap' type stuff. Think it is sold in DIY shops for going behind radiators ( or similar)

 

Take the head linings down, cut the 'bubble wrap' to shape / size push it in and replace the head linings.

Similarly on the 'walls'.

[blackrose]

I wouldn't use contact adhesive personally as it tends to go brittle with age, so may not cope well with expansion, contraction or flexing of the cabin. Toolstation have a PU adhesive/sealant called Stixall or there is Marineflex (Google it)，both of which will remain flexible when cured.

 

By the way, if you're going to all the trouble of doing the job then I would use proper kingspan or celotex expanded fire retardant polyurethane insulation board which are available in a variety of thicknesses.

Edited December 15, 2015 by blackrose

[sal garfi]

I was planning to cover the mats with linings from Hawke House, but true, I ought to check to see if the mats can take adhesives. I shall also try burning a sample from one to see how it behaves. I thought of using these mats since they're redundant at home, and I read somewhere on either this forum, or a yachting one, of someone using such mats an being happy with the end result. But I'll also look into fire retardant insulation.

[Chewbacka]

I wouldn't use contact adhesive personally as it tends to go brittle with age, so may not cope well with expansion, contraction or flexing of the cabin. Toolstation have a PU adhesive/sealant called Stixall or there is Marineflex (Google it)，both of which will remain flexible when cured.

 

By the way, if you're going to all the trouble of doing the job then I would use proper kingspan or celotex expanded fire retardant polyurethane insulation board which are available in a variety of thicknesses.

I do agree that a PU adhesive is very good stuff. However I thought a contact adhesive would be ok as it is often suggested by suppliers of acoustic foam. But Stixall is good.

[Jim Riley]

I would be tempted to use the silver bubble insulation, about 5mm thick, but a lot higher insulation value than foam. Spray contact adhesive would be fine I reckon, used it to put carpet on grp boat wall and ceiling myself.

[sal garfi]

Re spray contact adhesives, has anyone used TrimFix, and how did they get on?

[wonderdust]

Yes i've used it on my Defender, lots of Land Rover and camper van owners use it to stick insulation to the sides and roof, if you go down the spray route don't use a generic spray as its no were near as good as Trimfix.

[FadeToScarlet]

I would be tempted to use the silver bubble insulation, about 5mm thick, but a lot higher insulation value than foam. Spray contact adhesive would be fine I reckon, used it to put carpet on grp boat wall and ceiling myself.

Yes, a friend insulated her converted lifeboat with this, it's surprisingly warm.

[sal garfi]

Yes i've used it on my Defender, lots of Land Rover and camper van owners use it to stick insulation to the sides and roof, if you go down the spray route don't use a generic spray as its no were near as good as Trimfix.

 

When using Trimfix, do you spray both surfaces, or only the lining that you want to stick in place?

[wonderdust]

It's best to spray each surface for the strongest bond, the nozzle is adjustable for spray different pattens which comes in handy for akward areas.

[sal garfi]

It's best to spray each surface for the strongest bond, the nozzle is adjustable for spray different pattens which comes in handy for akward areas.

 

I like the sound of trimfix. I'll definitely use it. Thanks!

[blackrose]

I do agree that a PU adhesive is very good stuff. However I thought a contact adhesive would be ok as it is often suggested by suppliers of acoustic foam. But Stixall is good.

Contact adhesive is fine in certain situations, just not ones in which flexibility is important.