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Servicing own engine

Loafer

By Loafer
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Loafer Veteran

Loafer

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You do know the Lister CRK3 is the same engine don't you? Not all those were derated though.

 

 

 

Some debate about the thermostat let off temp being different. I chose the expensive Beta one in the end...

 

 

 

Yes, I had heard that. Google, here I come...

 

Could you tell me where the thermostat IS, Bill?

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Loafer Veteran

Loafer

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Pleasure to be of help, you'll want a new gasket for the thermostat housing, you knew that :0)

 

Yep ta, but I have no plans for removing it. I just didn't think it had one, but would like to know where it is in case the b^gger sticks!

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ditchcrawler Veteran II

ditchcrawlerDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted (edited)

Beta fitted two different air filters to this engine, one cheap and one expensive, mine is the expensive one, Found it much cheaper on the net.

This was my conversation with Beta

 

Hi Neal

I thought you may have been off. Needless to say mine is the £81 model,
so as I have just brought it back to the boat after taken it home to clean and
its in good condition I think it will have to last a bit longer.
Thanks for getting back.
Brian
> Hello Brian,
>
> Sorry for the delay, I have been away for a week.
>
> There are two air filter possibilities for the BD3. One has a single wing nut which releases the end plate and the filter in one unit.
> The other has a triangular moulded grip on the nut to release the end cap f ollowed by a wing nut to release the filter.
> They will carry the part No's 382-07898 or 757-15230 respectively.
> The first one costs approx. £81.-- and the later model approx. £32.--
>
> Please let me know what you need and I will get it for you.
Edited by ditchcrawler
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ditchcrawler Veteran II

ditchcrawlerDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted

 

Beta fitted two different air filters to this engine, one cheap and one expensive, mine is the expensive one, Found it much cheaper on the net.

This was my conversation with Beta

 

Hi Neal

I thought you may have been off. Needless to say mine is the £81 model,
so as I have just brought it back to the boat after taken it home to clean and
its in good condition I think it will have to last a bit longer.
Thanks for getting back.
Brian
> Hello Brian,
>
> Sorry for the delay, I have been away for a week.
>
> There are two air filter possibilities for the BD3. One has a single wing nut which releases the end plate and the filter in one unit.
> The other has a triangular moulded grip on the nut to release the end cap f ollowed by a wing nut to release the filter.
> They will carry the part No's 382-07898 or 757-15230 respectively.
> The first one costs approx. £81.-- and the later model approx. £32.--
>
> Please let me know what you need and I will get it for you.

 

This si the £81 one for a quarter of the price http://www.inlinefilters.co.uk/Filters-Air/Cartridge/Lid/FBW-PA3447

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Loafer Veteran

Loafer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

Beta fitted two different air filters to this engine, one cheap and one expensive, mine is the expensive one, Found it much cheaper on the net.

This was my conversation with Beta

 

Hi Neal

I thought you may have been off. Needless to say mine is the £81 model,
so as I have just brought it back to the boat after taken it home to clean and
its in good condition I think it will have to last a bit longer.
Thanks for getting back.
Brian
> Hello Brian,
>
> Sorry for the delay, I have been away for a week.
>
> There are two air filter possibilities for the BD3. One has a single wing nut which releases the end plate and the filter in one unit.
> The other has a triangular moulded grip on the nut to release the end cap f ollowed by a wing nut to release the filter.
> They will carry the part No's 382-07898 or 757-15230 respectively.
> The first one costs approx. £81.-- and the later model approx. £32.--
>
> Please let me know what you need and I will get it for you.

 

 

Ah mine's the cheap one from that description. Ta DC.

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ditchcrawler Veteran II

ditchcrawlerDonate to Canal World

Posted
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Bd3 is not a cork one. Got my spare rocker gasket from beta. Not sure how you would turn the engine over without hand start and decompressor though

I have a big pulley on the front of my engine. with the engine stop out I can turn it over VERY slowly

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Loafer Veteran

Loafer

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I have a big pulley on the front of my engine. with the engine stop out I can turn it over VERY slowly

 

Oh God. I don't have a decompressor lever. Or do I? There's an unused stop thing on the HP fuel pump (i.e. not the lift pump) but I think that just shuts off fuel.

 

Great help, chaps. Many thanks.

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ditchcrawler Veteran II

ditchcrawlerDonate to Canal World

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Posted

 

Oh God. I don't have a decompressor lever. Or do I? There's an unused stop thing on the HP fuel pump (i.e. not the lift pump) but I think that just shuts off fuel.

 

Great help, chaps. Many thanks.

No decompressors that is why its slowly, the engine stop is so it doesn't start and take my hand off.

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dmr Veteran II

dmr

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Posted

You should be able to turn the engine over by hand using the big pulley on the front.

The stop lever is good advice!

The main resistance to turning by hand should be the compression, in fact by noting how much of a struggle it is you are doing an approximate compression test!

Turn the engine till it gets really hard then rock it back and forward a little bit for a short while, the compression will leak away, then you can turn it further!

Check that all three cylinders put up a similar fight.

 

.................Dave

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dmr Veteran II

dmr

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Don't forget the grease nipples on the constant velocity joints

 

They are much more likely to be conventional "Hookes" joints which are not constant velocity!

(pedant note As long as there are an even number they should cancel out so that both ends turn at the same (instantaneous) velocity but the shaft itself accelerates and decelerates! (at twice rotational frequency I think))

 

..............Dave

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Graham.m Rising Star

Graham.m

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They are much more likely to be conventional "Hookes" joints which are not constant velocity!

(pedant note As long as there are an even number they should cancel out so that both ends turn at the same (instantaneous) velocity but the shaft itself accelerates and decelerates! (at twice rotational frequency I think))

 

..............Dave

 

lol Haven't the foggiest lol No my area, except to grease

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dmr Veteran II

dmr

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lol Haven't the foggiest lol No my area, except to grease

 

Look up the Wikipedia articles on Hookes (universal) joints and constant velocity joints, nice animations!

 

...............Dave

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Loafer Veteran

Loafer

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Yes mine has a cable attached to stop the engine. I pull a cable to stop the engine not press a button.

 

Ah. I have a Murphy valve and a switch. The lever on the fuel pump assembly isn't connected to anything.

 

I'm therefore of the opinion that it will be OK just switching off the Murphy valve, which is it's normal pre-start condition.

 

You should be able to turn the engine over by hand using the big pulley on the front.

The stop lever is good advice!

The main resistance to turning by hand should be the compression, in fact by noting how much of a struggle it is you are doing an approximate compression test!

Turn the engine till it gets really hard then rock it back and forward a little bit for a short while, the compression will leak away, then you can turn it further!

Check that all three cylinders put up a similar fight.

 

.................Dave

 

Got all that dmr, many thanks!

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