batteries? arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

[paulstoke1975]

when i first had my boat 2 months ago i was having trouble with the electrics ive been on shoreline at the marina so the batteries should be fully charged however ,

normally my average amp usage according to the charger while connected to the mains is around 2- 5 amp ,but soon as i disconnect and run through the batteries its says im using 60-62 amps, it runs but then cuts out if i try to run even my laptop

 

ive had the alternator checked and its fine so would this be an indication that the batteries are knackered?

 

cheers...

[Paul C]

when i first had my boat 2 months ago i was having trouble with the electrics ive been on shoreline at the marina so the batteries should be fully charged however ,

normally my average amp usage according to the charger while connected to the mains is around 2- 5 amp ,but soon as i disconnect and run through the batteries its says im using 60-62 amps, it runs but then cuts out if i try to run even my laptop

 

ive had the alternator checked and its fine so would this be an indication that the batteries are knackered?

 

cheers...

 

What's "its" as highlighted? Battery chargers don't show anything more than the current they themselves are putting in, so I can't see how it would report your current usage when its disconnected. Also, that figure is bonkers high, unless there's something like an inverter powering a microwave oven (cooking something at the time...) or a fan heater, or an immersion heater element etc. If its an actual battery monitor - if so what type? - then you need to satisfy yourself that its wired up properly (loads aren't!!!) and that YOU are in control of the electrical devices on the boat, such that you know where the on/off switch is for everything since logically, with everything off it will show 0 Amps and you'd be able to identify what's using the power by turning items on and off etc.

Edited October 7, 2015 by Paul C

[KenK]

2 to 5 amps from a 240V AC supply is between 480 to 1200 Watts.

60 to 62 amps from a 12V DC supply is between 720 to 744 Watts.

From the batteries you are not running the charger but are you running an Inverter?

Is it the Inverter which cuts out?

You I assume will not be running the Inverter from shore power but do you have an Inverter / Shoreline switch or is it a Combi unit with a pass through facility?

 

Ken

[by'eck]

when i first had my boat 2 months ago i was having trouble with the electrics ive been on shoreline at the marina so the batteries should be fully charged however ,

normally my average amp usage according to the charger while connected to the mains is around 2- 5 amp ,but soon as i disconnect and run through the batteries its says im using 60-62 amps, it runs but then cuts out if i try to run even my laptop

 

ive had the alternator checked and its fine so would this be an indication that the batteries are knackered?

 

cheers...

 

I recall a thread that you posted on indicating you had the latest Sterling pro charge ultra which indicates current supplied to batteries. I also recall there was some conclusion that the charger was being run via an inverter from the same batteries it was trying to re-charge, clearly a ridiculous situation which you were advised to correct. If you still haven't done anything about this then it would explain the heavy current being supplied to batteries when shore power is removed and inverter started. It doesn't specifically suggest batteries are knackered, but draining them in this manner will impinge on their life.

 

Apologies if my recollection is incorrect.

 

ETA: Just found the old thread with my advice here. Clearly you have taken the first part of advice by charging batteries fully at a marina, but have you taken the second part to ensure the charger cannot under any circumstances be run from the inverter?

Edited October 7, 2015 by by'eck

[paulstoke1975]

 

I recall a thread that you posted on indicating you had the latest Sterling pro charge ultra which indicates current supplied to batteries. I also recall there was some conclusion that the charger was being run via an inverter from the same batteries it was trying to re-charge, clearly a ridiculous situation which you were advised to correct. If you still haven't done anything about this then it would explain the heavy current being supplied to batteries when shore power is removed and inverter started. It doesn't specifically suggest batteries are knackered, but draining them in this manner will impinge on their life.

 

Apologies if my recollection is incorrect.

 

ETA: Just found the old thread with my advice here. Clearly you have taken the first part of advice by charging batteries fully at a marina, but have you taken the second part to ensure the charger cannot under any circumstances be run from the inverter?

when running from batteries i have the inverter if i need to power the 240v sockets but even with nothing else is on other than tv on standby and 12v fridge its showing 60amp on the charger , when the inverter is on it auto switches on the charger and i cant see that there is a separate power switch for the charger?

also i do have the inverter switched of when on shore power

[by'eck]

when running from batteries i have the inverter if i need to power the 240v sockets but even with nothing else is on other than tv on standby and 12v fridge its showing 60amp on the charger , when the inverter is on it auto switches on the charger and i cant see that there is a separate power switch for the charger?

also i do have the inverter switched of when on shore power

 

You have what is known as a pass through inverter (UPS). This passes mains through to your AC distribution system when shore power is present but when not the inverter kicks in, drawing power from the batteries to maintain the AC supply. Unfortunately someone has fitted your charger such that its powered from this same distribution system downstream from the inverter.

 

Until you fit a dedicated socket for the charger fed directly from the shore power feed so bypassing the inverter, you will have the issues you have been suffering. Similar consideration needs to be given to an immersion heater if you have one.

 

I've tried to explain this situation as simply as possible many times now but you seem not to understand or appreciate the implications. If you can show this message to a professional they will understand and be able to correct the situation.

 

ETA: As a short term solution you can ensure that the Sterling charger is only switched on when shore power is present but firmly switched off when not and you have inverter running to power other AC devices. I believe you have been given instructions already on how to do this on your charger.

Edited October 7, 2015 by by'eck

[paulstoke1975]

ive just had a proper check and with 3 led lights running and the fridge the volts are 14.5 and the amps 0.7 to 0.8 but as i said in the previous post when im running of batteries its the amps go up to 60 and the left bank of lights on the inverter turn to one red light pretty quick then start beeping? the beeping gets fater untio the inverter shuts down completly

anyone know a boat electrician in the stoke area ?

[Arthur Brown]

I don't think you have understood how to use your inverter/charger unit, or it's faulty, or it's improperly installed. FIND a manual for the combi and read it all through til you understand it.

[by'eck]

I don't think you have understood how to use your inverter/charger unit, or it's faulty, or it's improperly installed. FIND a manual for the combi and read it all through til you understand it.

 

Nothing I have read in this thread or Paul's previous one suggests there are any faults with individual items apart from suspect battery capacity, merely that the stand alone charger has been wired incorrectly downstream of inverter. He doesn't have a Combi but a stand-alone inverter with mains pass through as in UPS. In this respect though it does behave as a Combi.

[by'eck]

ive just had a proper check and with 3 led lights running and the fridge the volts are 14.5 and the amps 0.7 to 0.8 but as i said in the previous post when im running of batteries its the amps go up to 60 and the left bank of lights on the inverter turn to one red light pretty quick then start beeping? the beeping gets fater untio the inverter shuts down completly

anyone know a boat electrician in the stoke area ?

 

To be expected for the reasons explained already. I shall be passing through Stoke in about two weeks and would be happy to have a look if that helps. PM me if needed.

[matty40s]

He doesn't have a Combi but a stand-alone inverter with mains pass through as in UPS. In this respect though it does behave as a Combi.

 

With his own batteries taking over from the landline trying to charge themselves as well as power the boat....

[dmr]

Surely the OP just needs to replace the charger with a better model that is more than 100% efficient then his batteries will always be fully charged?

 

..............Dave (where's that smiley icon thing).

[by'eck]

Surely the OP just needs to replace the charger with a better model that is more than 100% efficient then his batteries will always be fully charged?

 

..............Dave (where's that smiley icon thing).

 

Don't you think the OP is confused enough already without bringing free energy concepts to the fore

[paulstoke1975]

a bit of a update, i have managed to find the mains switch for the charger (well a man in the know did)

 

for some reason the person who fitted the system put the switch under the sink?

 

im now going to be having a master change over switch fitted where it should be next to the charger and inverter. as already stated before the penny dropped my charger was switching its self on soon as the inverter was switched on and drawing power , i also wasnt aware that my water immersion was on 24/7 drawing a kw of power so thats off now until i need it.

 

now im on sure power (inverter off charger on)

 

and when the new switch is fitted ill be inverter on charger off (when off shore power)

 

sorry for being a divvy and thanks for all the help everyone

 

 

especially BY'ECK

 

CHEERS

 

i'll let you know how i go on

[bottle]

 

sorry for being a divvy

 

Join the rest of us, we have all been there with something.

 

Good to know it is sorted.

 

[paulstoke1975]

Hopefully :-)

[by'eck]

a bit of a update, i have managed to find the mains switch for the charger (well a man in the know did)

 

for some reason the person who fitted the system put the switch under the sink?

 

im now going to be having a master change over switch fitted where it should be next to the charger and inverter. as already stated before the penny dropped my charger was switching its self on soon as the inverter was switched on and drawing power , i also wasnt aware that my water immersion was on 24/7 drawing a kw of power so thats off now until i need it.

 

now im on sure power (inverter off charger on)

 

and when the new switch is fitted ill be inverter on charger off (when off shore power)

 

sorry for being a divvy and thanks for all the help everyone

 

 

especially BY'ECK

 

CHEERS

 

i'll let you know how i go on

 

As mentioned before given your particular hardware, a better and simpler solution would be to install AC sockets fed directly from the shore power inlet (after the breaker) for both the charger and immersion heater. That way they can never be fed via your pass through inverter and you won't need the relative complexity of a changeover switch. The remaining AC distribution system can then be left as is.

 

ETA: To add weight to my comments, your pass through inverter effectively has an (automatic) changeover switch already, selecting shore power if present and inverter if not. No need for another.

Edited October 8, 2015 by by'eck