Clamp meter

[Jon57]

Hi just found this on flea bay any good.http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=251838134882

[bottle]

Probably

 

it is the 203 that is usually recommended. perhaps this one has a different specification. (not checked)

[Nightwatch]

They have all been sold.

 

Looked a good deal.

[Peregrine]

The 204 is the 203 + True RMS. You decide whether that's needed on a boat. When I got my 204 it was going for the same price as a 203. Perfectly happy with the purchase.

[Jon57]

Thanks Peregrine, can you tell me what true RMS is

[raymondh]

True RMS

 

 

Ray

[Jon57]

Looks like I will never use the full potential of the meter but will do ac/dc volts and amps so well pleased for £21

[ditchcrawler]

Looks like I will never use the full potential of the meter but will do ac/dc volts and amps so well pleased for £21

Did you get one?

[Jon57]

Yes it arrived today . I think they must have got the price wrong ! But not complaining

[Steve_C]

I got the last one. Glad it was not at your expense Jon. Good heads up.

[Alan Saunders]

After much encouragement from this forum I bought a UT-203 from Maplin ~£40 but be careful because they also stock a UT-203 for ~£30 that measures only AC amps.

 

My UT-203 seems to be adequately constructed and works well as a basic DVM (using the leads) but it lacks the features, whilst adding others (Hertz etc.), of even the cheapest alternative DVM. The 40A/400A clamp meter function is unreliable at 'low' currents, e.g. inverting (reversing) the clamp gave readings of 7A in one direction and 11A in the other direction, impossible. Even when distant from any current source it does not 'zero'. I believe it was Nicknorman who suggested using the 'delta' function to reduce this error, thank you.

 

Whatever volt/ammeter you have (DVM to Avo VIII) it is necessary to use it intelligently. We expect the UT-203 to measure absolute current ±0.1A but it (mine) doesn't! Previously I was happy to use the large lead from alternator to battery to measure comparative charge/discharge rates (Amps), I calibrated it by measuring the voltage drop versus current with the 60W headlamp on, not accurate but much better than my UT-203! If you think, like me, that you understand low voltage DC electric batteries, alternators and chargers a DC-Clamp ammeter may be useful but only as a comparative, not a definitive, actual current, device.

 

I did not realise that my UT-203 fails to indicate true RMS voltage. I guess this means, like most DVMs that it is only accurate at ~50/60Hz. Maybe the UT-204 can measure true RMS voltage at any frequency, like that produced by the typical engine alternator and, maybe, including modified square wave?

 

Unfortunately my 1980 vintage Fluke DVM has expired. The most useful feature was a 'pulse-stretcher' on the continuity function - a very short continuity or discontinuity produced an audible sound or 'gap'. Returned from 'calibration' it was missing its spare fuses and obviously an abused 'exchange unit', not the excellent meter that I had cared for. My accurate, cared-for meter was replaced by rubbish that I was ashamed to use and, especially be seen to be using by customers.

 

Alan