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Oil for SR2


TandC

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Hello folks,

 

 

My Lister manual says that for my old SR2 i should use the following oil:

 

SAE 10W below 0c (never happenin')

SAE 20/20W if between 0 - 30c (likely)

SAE 30 if over 30C

 

 

So I guess that for me in my cruiser stern I am talking about the middle option.

 

But there is such a bewildering amount of information on oils now (and I see there is a topic raging over in the Boat Maintenance forum) that I am very confused - synthetic, semi? etc etc

 

I don't mind buying quality oil - I don't cruise continually so if I'm going to the effort of an annual change then i'll do it properly.

 

 

Please can someone just tell me what I should be using!!

 

 

Thanks,

 

Tim

 

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15/40 is probably about the most sensible grade you can get nowadays. I used it in my ST1 genset for many years and that's what's in my later ST2 ditto and it runs OK.

Pointless going on about glazed bores - they're smoky engines from new...

15/40 is more difficult to get from the high street - but most (?) motor factors keep it and if you buy it 'in bulk' you'll get a good price. Don't go for the fancy varieties - I choose 'suitable for non turbo charged engines'

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I use 15/40 or 20/50 mineral

Main thing seems to be not too high a specification. My local car shop's second cheapest oil is CF, which is OK. I wouldn't go any higher, though. (Their cheapest is Comma 20/50, which does not have any rating at all, so I'm a bit suspiscious of itninja.gif , although it would probably be fine.

 

 

Iain

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Comma oil is pretty good (been using it on turbo and no turbo car diesels over the years), even comma should meet the min requirements!

Fuch (fox) also do good value for money (I have also had good results with morris oils)

(try GSF - online or shop) for value.

Hope this helps a little.

 

I'm running a TS2 on mine ^.^

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API CC, any higher will not be a good idea, i had to glaze bust and re ring a bunch of hand crank listers which had been run on Castrol RX Super 15w40 which was something like API CE. I removed an oil filler cap on a running engine which was a bit of a pig to start(they all were) and it shot the filler cap the length of the workshop followed by a blast of oil which left a black sprayed line on the underside of the roof about 10ft above. All the engines were badly glazed in the bores. The glaze bust and re-ring cured the starting while using the manufacturers recomended spec of API CC.

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