Painting and anti slip

[lesrollins]

I am just about to prepare the roof of the boat for painting it as been done with anti slip in parts. What I would like to know is what I can use for anti slip in the paint and which coat of paint is best to use the anti slip in. I have been told budgie sand, kiln dried sand as used for block paving and others. And what would be the best way to bring the level of the missing paint up to the existing level or would I have to sand the edges down to try and blend it in.

[JamesWoolcock]

Wilko floor paint, Or any floor paint.

Excellent non slip.

Sand goes grotty in time.

James

[lesrollins]

It looks like it was sand at the time thou

[cuthound]

When we had the roof of our last share boat resanded, Norbury Junction used crushed walnut shells rather than sand.

 

It has excellent non-slip properties and also removed skin from knuckles when vigorously polishing brass mushrooms

[Higgs]

It is not exactly clear to what degree you are touching up and which parts are being renewed, as in non slip.

 

It is important to do the gloss first, in any case. I'd advise people not to do a completely sand covered roof as they rarely work out evenly. Have manageable sections of sand bordered by gloss or floor paint. Sections are easier to replace or renew as a whole. The gloss sections are wider than they will end up, once the sand goes down, overlapping the gloss.

 

I've always used kiln dried block paving sand. It's cheap as well. Mask off the area to be sand covered and key up the surface. It is worth building a simple hand-held hopper to apply the sand. Anyway, surface masked off, roll on the colour or paint you are going to want the final to be. No need to apply full thick paint, it can be thinned. It is only going down to pre-colour the sand base and stick the sand to. Sprinkle the sand on until it completely covers the paint.

 

Leave 24hrs to dry. Soft brush or vacuum the excess sand until there is little loose sand around. Prepare the paint and thin, you want it to soak into the sand not lay on top or gloss. If done right, it will produce a very uniform effect.

 

It is another good reason to plan manageable areas in that you will have time to do each area without completing the whole roof in one.

 

The first pre-coat of paint needs to have just enough body for the sand to sit in rather than just laying on top. If that makes sense.

Edited April 14, 2015 by Higgs

[Detling]

To repaint use thinned paint so it soaks in and apply sparingly, I use the little rollers for behind radiators and roll hard. Generally you should not need to resand except where the old is chipped, and that is done first, as above using a small brush to paint the base onto the chipped area before covering with sand. Use masking tape at the edge to get a straight line.

[blackrose]

I just use International Interdeck non-slip deck paint. It's easy to use and non-professionals can get a good finish, which is not always the case with some other deck paints and systems.

[lesrollins]

The gritted areas on the roof that have come away are where the water as penetrated causing small areas of rust. Largest area being about 6" in diameter there are not many bad areas to be retouched so should not be to bad to try and blend in. The 6" area is a result of a rust spot about thumb nail size and then me taking away loose paint around the area until paint is good on the metal.

 

I will be treating with a rust cure and two coats of primer on the bare metal before completing roof with two layers of undercoat and two top coats.

 

By the sound of the advice I think I will be using kiln dried sand.

 

Do I need to bring the level of the missing paint up with the primer so there is no dipping or is it best to use some sort of filler.

 

I am using craftmaster paint so whats the best to use for thinning and to what ratio. Thanks

Edited April 14, 2015 by lesrollins

[Higgs]

The gritted areas on the roof that have come away are where the water as penetrated causing small areas of rust. Largest area being about 6" in diameter there are not many bad areas to be retouched so should not be to bad to try and blend in. The 6" area is a result of a rust spot about thumb nail size and then me taking away loose paint around the area until paint is good on the metal.

 

I will be treating with a rust cure and two coats of primer on the bare metal before completing roof with two layers of undercoat and two top coats.

 

By the sound of the advice I think I will be using kiln dried sand.

 

Do I need to bring the level of the missing paint up with the primer so there is no dipping or is it best to use some sort of filler.

 

I am using craftmaster paint so whats the best to use for thinning and to what ratio. Thanks

 

 

Repairing any surface that has an irregular edge is going to be slightly tricky to blend. Made a little easier if you can find a similar grain size of sand. Once you've cleaned to bare steel it is necessary to reapply primer and undercoat. Working up to the edge of a sanded area probably means you'll have to avoid brushing over the existing sand as best you can. In a way, moving the paint up to the edge of the sand. As long as you haven't got a rash of little rust areas, I'd painstakingly try to repair the odd patch. If there is a rash, I'd be inclined to strip back whole areas.

 

I know it's possible to create and cut something resembling straight edges of the sand surrounding the repair patch, making it possible to use masking tape to help avoid the build up of fresh paint at the edges. The whole job will look better if you intend to paint the whole area when the patch is done. I would paint the patch first to build up a coat of paint in the new sand coated area, which is what the older sand coating has, then, paint the whole lot.

 

Dipping or troughs won't be too noticeable on the sand coated areas, it is more visible on painted only surfaces. In small areas of paint damage, where you might not have the room or space to feather the edges, I'd fill. Feathering does require that a relatively small area grows quite a lot to disguise the hollows left by working on rust areas, etc. It all depends on how much of a perfectionist you are. This type of work on the cabin sides can end up looking crap if these hollows aren't taken care of.

 

On Craftmaster paint, best if you ask suppliers as I'm not too respectful of using proprietary recommended thinners.

Edited April 14, 2015 by Higgs

[lesrollins]

Thanks Higgs I will take your advice on board excuse the pun ?