Philip Hooton Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 My Hurth split gearbox has a leak on the join at the base. When the box is warm a.t.f. leaks out. I want to avoid removing the box and it has occurred to me to empty he fluid and slightly slack off the side studs allowing the join to open by a very small amount and push a little silicon sealant into the join. Any suggestions as to the pros and cons or possible pitfalls would be very much appreciated or any other thoughts would be gratefully received. thanks for your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fizz Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 By the time you faff about with that, you may as well remove the box and do it properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobbybass Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 I agree with Mr Fizz... One thing I have learned over the years..is that it's tempting to look for work arounds for jobs such as this..but it nearly always turns out that it takes longer..costs more..and doesn't work. My 'feelings' on this would be...that when you semi-separate the box....it won't matter how hard you try...when separated oil will continue to leak around the edges while you try and get silicone into it. Thus...the silicone will keep getting washed away from the joint...and after many hours..you will give up.. There is a product that I used on a car engine some years back...that you put in the oil and it's an 'oil leak stopper'. I bought it in Wilkinsons. At the time...my car was almost a scrapper...but it did work...although I was worried about the long term affects on it. I would find out the proper torque settings...and make sure your gearbox is attached as tightly as it should be. Good luck ! Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 How odd - why would that joint leak. Are you sure it isn't the output seal leaking and the oil dribbling down to the bottom? Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmr Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 A question for Richard whilst talking about leaking boxes. How difficult to replace the input and output shaft seals on a prm260? Is this something I can do myself in the boat with the standard comprehensive boaters toolkit? or do I need a solid workbench and pullers etc? I assume I can do the seals without splitting the box? but how hard to get the output coupling flange off??? ..........Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewIC Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 Slackening the sideways bolts alone won't allow the two halves to separate, because there should be half a dozen bolts holding the box onto the adapter plate (heads inside the flywheel housing). Are you sure it's the joint between the halves, and not the output shaft/drain plug/selector lever, etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 A question for Richard whilst talking about leaking boxes. How difficult to replace the input and output shaft seals on a prm260? Is this something I can do myself in the boat with the standard comprehensive boaters toolkit? or do I need a solid workbench and pullers etc? I assume I can do the seals without splitting the box? but how hard to get the output coupling flange off??? ..........Dave Much the same as the PRM 160 here: http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=47008 The nut on the output will be tight, which will be a challenge, the coupling may just slide off after that. Or you will need a puller The input seal - if you are lucky, you can dig the old one out of the housing and fit a new one without dismantling the box Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Hooton Posted November 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 thanks for the replies i have eliminated the drain plug and side shift control.as leak sources i will now do a proper job as suggested and remove the gearbox. (when the rain stops) many thanks everyone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Do some checking around first. You can learn a lot by applying kitchen roll in different places. Clean the bottom off, run the engine in gear for a bit. Switch the engine off, then have a dab around with a wad of clean kitchen roll. You'll probably work out where the oil is coming from Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wirren Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 May be of use to someone - A friend's Technodrive box was leaking at the join ( between the 2 halves ). It was due to excessive pressure within the casing & was solved by changing the breather to one without a ball & spring inside. ( The Technodrive factory do a mod for all future installations). The area where the leak was cleaned ( using thinners ) & a 'fabric' patch doused in silicone was strapped in position. Its been running without a leak for 2 years now. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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