Anchoring the Anchor

[Neil2]

I have an Anchor/chain/warp that hasn't been deployed yet, but on this boat there doesn't seem to be a eye or cleat to fix it to. At the moment my only option would be to use the T stud on the bow deck and I feel I should have something dedicated to the anchor and more substantial. I have one or two ides but thought maybe other members have been through this exercise and have other suggestions.

[Naughty Cal]

We have a very hefty d hook, similar to the towing hook on the bow of the boat mounted on a reinforced bulkhead in the bow locker. A webbing strap is then attached to the hook with the chain attached to the webbing.

[Ryeland]

I had the same problem. I bolted a 9" length of angle iron through the floor of the well deck. It is located near a corner for maximum stregth. Two 12mm high tensile bolts, and a reinforcement plate under the deck. The upright of the angle iron has a 1/2" hole in it to take the anchor warp shackle. I usually give the warp a couple of turns around the T stud so it is located correctly, and there is some sharing of the load.

 

I've never used it in anger! Thank goodness.

 

Richard

[Grace and Favour]

You could alwats fit one/two large eyebolts into a suitable bulkhead (reinforced if necessary), and use rated shackles to affix the rode/chain

 

Where are you planning on using the anchor? (how long is your chain and rode?)

[Naughty Cal]

However you attach it just remember to make it so that you can cut it free easily if necessary!

[Neil2]

I can't go through the well deck, well not easily anyway as it's an integral water tank, so I was thinking some sort of fixing to the gas locker bulkhead. I was originally thinking an eye bolt or a short length of chain bolted through the bulkhead but I like the sound of the angle iron arrangement.

 

G&F - I'm not proposing to use the anchor at all, hope I never have to, but I wouldn't go on any river without one. This boat has done the Ribble Link and the Tidal Trent and has a massive Danforth anchor and a huge amount of heavy chain and warp, I haven't measured it but I don't doubt it's more than enough for rivers. It's strange though that there's no fixing point for it unless I'm missing something obvious (and it has been known).

[Detling]

Normally when anchoring you don't just chuck it over this will just cause a b****y great tangle on the bottom and will probably not anchor the boat, You should lower the anchor via it's chain rapidly until the anchor hits the bottom, and then slowly let out more chain/warp as the boat drifts away from where the anchor is on the bottom. When you have let out about 3 to 4 times the depth of water you should hold the warp firmly (take a turn around the T stud) and wait until the warp is tight and the boat is turning towards the anchor. If there are no jerk/snatch feeling on the warp then the anchor has dug in and is not bumping along the bottom. If there are jerk vibrations let some more warp out and try again. When the anchor has dug in and is no longer dragging along the bottom the boat should stop moving over the ground, but may be moving through the water (use transits ashore to check). Check that the anchor warp leads forward at less than 30 degrees to the horizontal, and that there is sufficient warp out to allow for any expected rise in water level (tide coming in), make the end of the warp fast and put the kettle on.

[Naughty Cal]

3 to 4 times water depth is fine if using all chain but with a mixture of chain and rope let out closer to 6 times water depth and if all rope 10 times to ensure that the anchor lies on the river/sea bed.

[Phil Ambrose]

However you attach it just remember to make it so that you can cut it free easily if necessary!

Sound advice, have a greenie

Phil

[NB Ragtime]

I have a 57ft Liverpool boat that came with an anchor - boat now at painter's but he can't see an anchor point anywhere! - not keen on tying round t stud - has anyone else come across this problem specifically with a Liverpool & if so how did they sort it?

 

Thanks

 

Nick

[Sea Dog]

Normally when anchoring you don't just chuck it over this will just cause a b****y great tangle on the bottom and will probably not anchor the boat, You should lower the anchor via it's chain rapidly until the anchor hits the bottom, and then slowly let out more chain/warp as the boat drifts away from where the anchor is on the bottom. When you have let out about 3 to 4 times the depth of water you should hold the warp firmly (take a turn around the T stud) and wait until the warp is tight and the boat is turning towards the anchor. If there are no jerk/snatch feeling on the warp then the anchor has dug in and is not bumping along the bottom. If there are jerk vibrations let some more warp out and try again. When the anchor has dug in and is no longer dragging along the bottom the boat should stop moving over the ground, but may be moving through the water (use transits ashore to check). Check that the anchor warp leads forward at less than 30 degrees to the horizontal, and that there is sufficient warp out to allow for any expected rise in water level (tide coming in), make the end of the warp fast and put the kettle on.

 

The point here though, and why the OP hopes never to use his anchor, is that were talking an anchor for a narrowboat. It's sole purpose (in most cases) is as an emergency device to halt a boat which has lost motive power or steering on a flowing river to avert a disaster such as foundering on a wier. There's no hawser or deploying mechanism, no chain locker and, the crux of the original query, often no strong point to fix the bitter end to.

 

When the anchor needs deploying, the boat is heading downstream being taken by the flow and is not under control, so the anchor just gets chucked!

 

If the boat stops safely, there may then be time for tea - but a change of trousers is likely to be a higher priority.

[mrsmelly]

I have an Anchor/chain/warp that hasn't been deployed yet, but on this boat there doesn't seem to be a eye or cleat to fix it to. At the moment my only option would be to use the T stud on the bow deck and I feel I should have something dedicated to the anchor and more substantial. I have one or two ides but thought maybe other members have been through this exercise and have other suggestions.

Hi

 

My boat has a purpose built lug built in from new specificaly for the anchor. My other boats I have just used a T stud or dolly. It doesnt realy matter so long as its strong enough for the job. Just remember as has previously stated an anchor on a narrowboat is a consumable item and needs to be easy to cast adrift.

 

Tim