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Hb3 won't start


Ca Jon

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Hi people. I have a hb3 which has always started off the met first time. Started it today, it run for 5 mins then stalled. Now won't start. Any ideas?

Hi people. I have a hb3 which has always started off the met first time. Started it today, it run for 5 mins then stalled. Now won't start. Any ideas?

sorry that's key not met
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i would start at the fuel filters and work along the fuel line from there…ending up at the injector pump and possibly the injectors.

 

Do you have a day tank feeding the engine by gravity or is there a mechanical or electric lift pump?

 

Im afraid I don't know the HB so can't say where all the points that you might need to bleed are.

 

Sorry can't be of more help…….someone who knows the engine better will hopefully be along in a minute.

 

edited to add

 

Did it stop suddenly or just slowed to a stop?

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

Edited by frangar
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I believe bleeding an 'H' series engine isn't as straightforward as some, as they have individual injection pumps for each cylinder, and you have to have rocker covers off to get at the relevant bits, I think.

 

(I ought to know, and be proficient in doing it, but so far the matter has never arisen - no doubt my lack of knowledge will have me at some future inconvenient time).

The only time my HA3 has steadfastly refused to start is when someone, (who should have known the boat well), apparently left the stop control in an inappropriate position, (something we only found out after we had fully drained the battery!).

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I believe bleeding an 'H' series engine isn't as straightforward as some, as they have individual injection pumps for each cylinder, and you have to have rocker covers off to get at the relevant bits, I think.

 

(I ought to know, and be proficient in doing it, but so far the matter has never arisen - no doubt my lack of knowledge will have me at some future inconvenient time).

 

The only time my HA3 has steadfastly refused to start is when someone, (who should have known the boat well), apparently left the stop control in an inappropriate position, (something we only found out after we had fully drained the battery!).

 

That depends. Some are 'self-bleeding' (up to a point), some are not. It's the side door which has to come off, for those which aren't, which means removing any air ducting.

The self-bleeding ones have tiny copper tubing connecting the pumps to the injector leakoffs. Another source of potential fuel leakage into the sump sad.png

 

Edit - for clarity - it's not the crankcase door which has to be removed, but the one above it, fuel pump housing door, which might be invisible if there is air ducting fitted.

 

Tim

Edited by Timleech
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My first narrow boat had an SR2 which leaked into the sump and eventually the oip level reached the rings then it ran away burning oil and making lots of smoke.

 

Good design for an engine sitting out in the open with easy access and exposed to the weather but a bit less handy in a boat IMO

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Well thanks to all of you and my neighbor bob the welder, I found out where the bleed screws are (behind a plate under the cooling shroud cover. Anyway, I bled the system and it stRted 1st time. There was a loose nut at the fuel tank connector nut thingy.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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