lister jp3 oil

[jimbob01]

hi ,this has probably been answered before...is "comma classic sae 30 oil suitable for my jp3?

it says its for petrol engines in some cases...light diesel in others..... thanks for looking.jim

[Proper Job]

Not sure about Comma classic SAE 30

 

JP's need a non detergent SAE 30, the sludge needs to settle in the bottom of the sump/tank rather than held in suspension and pumped around the engine

 

I use Morris Golden Film SAE 30 - can can also get it in 25 litre drums (which is about as much as you'll need for a JP3)

 

edit

Just looked on the Comma web site - the Classic is a non detergent oil, so should be ok

Edited March 25, 2014 by Proper Job

[jimbob01]

yes i saw most folk seem to be using the morris,i just found the comma for around £3. a litre on ebay and was hoping to make a little saving...

[frangar]

Just to throw a curved ball……Lister recommend a SAE 20 for UK climates….It makes hand starting in winter a whole lot easier!….I still get good oil pressure even on the hottest summer days running SAE 20 in mine,

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

[jimbob01]

ok....but is the comma classic oil suitable in the jp?

 

 

i did think re the 20 mmm

[RAP]

I am considering Morris SAE 20 and Morris SAE 20w50 for my stationary JP3, which one should I use?

 

Thanks.

[frangar]

I am considering Morris SAE 20 and Morris SAE 20w50 for my stationary JP3, which one should I use?

 

Thanks.

I would go for the SAE20. It's as near as you can get to the spec that lister say in a modern oil. I presume you are in the UK?

 

You need a non detergent oil to allow the crap to sink to the bottom of the sump.

 

Do take the side doors off and give it a good clean out before filling with new oil. It's a good idea to check the state of the gauze filter too.

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

[by'eck]

Haven't tried it but non detergent SAE30 from Rye Oil Ltd. is the right API CB spec. and a lot cheaper than Morris equivalent.

[Nds123]

Is there a special way to take of the side doors off when getting at the muck in the bottom of the sump

[Proper Job]

On a JP3 it's easier to take the large single door off rather than the individual ones.

 

It should be just a case of disconnect the throttle linkage to the fuel pump and remove the door

 

edit - If you've got decompressors on the crankcase door, don't worry about them, they stay in place on the door when it's removed

Edited April 7, 2014 by Proper Job

[Timleech]

Morris Golden Film is NOT a non-detergent oil, it (and other similar oils) do have much lower levels of detergency than most 'modern' oils.

Personally I wouldn't use a completely non-detergent oil, having seen the results of doing so!

Low detergency = good

Detergent free = bad,

in my book (for engines of this era).

 

Tim

[frangar]

Morris Golden Film is NOT a non-detergent oil, it (and other similar oils) do have much lower levels of detergency than most 'modern' oils.

Personally I wouldn't use a completely non-detergent oil, having seen the results of doing so!

Low detergency = good

Detergent free = bad,

in my book (for engines of this era).

 

Tim

Fair point!

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

[by'eck]

Is there a special way to take of the side doors off when getting at the muck in the bottom of the sump

 

JP models, their variants and different installations mean there is no set rule for which crankcase door to take off. As PJ suggests if the big manifold side door can easily be got at, that's the one to remove. On my JP2M its covered by the water pump, so I take off the opposite side forward (injection pump end) door and mop out the front part of the sump from there including the hollow forward sump plug. Replace door with new cork gasket every second removal.

 

The rear sump plug which I can easily access on my installation, allows draining of that part of the sump. Remember to check for debris in this hollow plug as well.

[by'eck]

Morris Golden Film is NOT a non-detergent oil, it (and other similar oils) do have much lower levels of detergency than most 'modern' oils.

Personally I wouldn't use a completely non-detergent oil, having seen the results of doing so!

Low detergency = good

Detergent free = bad,

in my book (for engines of this era).

 

Tim

 

I think any oil with the API CB or CC spec will suffice for vintage diesels. The "C" referring to commercial/compression ignition engines and the letter(s) after referring to the level of detergency (plus other factors) with "A" being the lowest (often referred to as detergent free). Full American Petroleum Institute list available here

 

Whilst both the above specs have been superceeded some time ago, vintage engine oil suppliers still use them, with API CB & CC still being readily available, although not to be used in diesel engines manufactured after 1961 and 1990 respectively. Morris Golden Film is CC spec BTW.

[frangar]

 

JP models, their variants and different installations mean there is no set rule for which crankcase door to take off. As PJ suggests if the big manifold side door can easily be got at, that's the one to remove. On my JP2M its covered by the water pump, so I take off the opposite side forward (injection pump end) door and mop out the front part of the sump from there including the hollow forward sump plug. Replace door with new cork gasket every second removal.

 

The rear sump plug which I can easily access on my installation, allows draining of that part of the sump. Remember to check for debris in this hollow plug as well.

 

Taking the large door off does mean you can remove the gauze filter tho…..its not unheard of for them to have splits in the gauze allowing rubbish through to the pump etc. Its also amazing quite how much sludge can build up underneath them.

 

I have to admit I never remove my sump plugs working on the basis its easier to clean the sump out from above…I agree with cleaning the recesses in the plugs themselves out….again stuff builds up in them.

 

If you have a Blackstone box fitted its also worth checking the bottom oil way back from the bottom of the box is clean as well.

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

[monkeyhanger]

hi ,this has probably been answered before...is "comma classic sae 30 oil suitable for my jp3?

it says its for petrol engines in some cases...light diesel in others..... thanks for looking.jim

 

Depending where you are in London, you may wish to try "New Era" oils canalside at Bow flyover. Their SAE 30 is about £18 for 5 litres. I've used it for 20 years and my JP is still running.(not on the same 5 litres I hasten to add)