The Stoker Posted October 16, 2013 Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 We are due to collect our new boat next week, which has a Gardner 2L2. I have been doing quite a bit of research about 2L2's but the one thing I can't find is what quantity of oil the engine sump holds. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty40s Posted October 16, 2013 Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 (edited) 4.5l of morris SAE 30 goldenfilm. the other good bit is that you don't replace the filter, just clean it out with parafin. Edited October 16, 2013 by matty40s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Stoker Posted October 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Thanks for that answer, now can anyone tell me what the oil change interval in hrs should be. I know oil is cheap compared to an engine rebuild, but there seems to be varying opinions between 100 and 300 hrs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty40s Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 I do mine every 300 hours or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
by'eck Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Thanks for that answer, now can anyone tell me what the oil change interval in hrs should be. I know oil is cheap compared to an engine rebuild, but there seems to be varying opinions between 100 and 300 hrs. I believe with the LW series it was 400 hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timleech Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 I believe with the LW series it was 400 hours. I think the LW generally has a bigger sump capacity than the L2, which would allow for longer intervals. Actual need for change will vary with duty cycle and engine condition, but best to follow the maker's guidelines. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamraiser2 Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 250 hrs oil change interval. Straight SAE30 no detergent oil. Its always a good idea to start the season on clean oil and would recommend you change it then as a matter of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty40s Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Which season?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamraiser2 Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 The Spring doh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
by'eck Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 I was always lead to believe the autumn/end of cruising season was the best time for an oil change. That way you have less acidic combustion products lurking in the oil and causing corrosion with the help of extra condensation over the winter lay up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamraiser2 Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Condensation is most likely to occur over the colder months which is why the spring oil change before the start of the cruising season is a good idea. Even miniscule quantities of water in your oil is a very bad thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpylurcher Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Ours was rebuilt by Danny Williamson, he suggested 250hrs. I think a change in the autumn if you are not using the boat and then in the spring makes sense, water is the biggest enemy any engine. Changes through the season, or all the year if it is in use at 250 hr intervals seems sensible, the capacity is quite small compared with some engines. Danny recommended Silkolene Chatsworth but any quality straight 30 grade oil should be ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timleech Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Ours was rebuilt by Danny Williamson, he suggested 250hrs. I think a change in the autumn if you are not using the boat and then in the spring makes sense, water is the biggest enemy any engine. Changes through the season, or all the year if it is in use at 250 hr intervals seems sensible, the capacity is quite small compared with some engines. Danny recommended Silkolene Chatsworth but any quality straight 30 grade oil should be ok Chatsworth is a CC grade (mild detergency), I'd personally much prefer to use that than a non-detergent oil. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamraiser2 Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Unless your engine has a micronic oil filter detergent oils are of no use to you. Detergent oils carry combustion products in suspension until the filter takes them out. If you have only a gauze strainer , as do most early types of diesel engine, the non detergent oils allow the combustion products to fall to the bottom of the sump or crankcase readily. The manufacturers specification for the oil should always be followed. Using the wrong oil when the right stuff is readily available has no merit whatever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timleech Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Unless your engine has a micronic oil filter detergent oils are of no use to you. Detergent oils carry combustion products in suspension until the filter takes them out. If you have only a gauze strainer , as do most early types of diesel engine, the non detergent oils allow the combustion products to fall to the bottom of the sump or crankcase readily. The manufacturers specification for the oil should always be followed. Using the wrong oil when the right stuff is readily available has no merit whatever. That'll be why Listers recommended (mild) detergent oils for the JP, with only a fairly coarse gauze strainer, and for their SR etc engines with almost no filter at all? Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andywatson Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 (edited) Presumably you are the owner of the boat by the name Stoker. I've seen her briefly as we passed on an awkward bend and she looked a nice boat. Good luck. Edited October 19, 2013 by andywatson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn 1 Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 (edited) Thanks for that answer, now can anyone tell me what the oil change interval in hrs should be. I know oil is cheap compared to an engine rebuild, but there seems to be varying opinions between 100 and 300 hrs. The Gardner manual for the L2 specifically states a maximum period of 300 hrs between changes. So the 250 that an earlier post stated danny Williamson had advised for theres is about right. Edited October 19, 2013 by martyn 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamraiser2 Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 That'll be why Listers recommended (mild) detergent oils for the JP, with only a fairly coarse gauze strainer, and for their SR etc engines with almost no filter at all? Tim They didn't. The spec oil for JPs was the military spec 160 which is a straight non detergent oil. As the older oil types became obselete the standard oil that replaced it was a CC oil. That is only because the old CA and CB grades are no longer available ( they were the commercial spec equivalent of Mil160 SAE20 &Mil200 CB SAE30). CC and CD are not so common these days , as no mainstream manufacturer really uses them these days. We can expect an uprating to the next detergency grade before too long. None of this detracts from the fact that early diesels were not designed to use detergent oils which did not exist when the engines first appeared.Use of them in unfiltered engines add nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edders Posted October 20, 2013 Report Share Posted October 20, 2013 Unless your engine has a micronic oil filter detergent oils are of no use to you. Detergent oils carry combustion products in suspension until the filter takes them out. If you have only a gauze strainer , as do most early types of diesel engine, the non detergent oils allow the combustion products to fall to the bottom of the sump or crankcase readily. The manufacturers specification for the oil should always be followed. Using the wrong oil when the right stuff is readily available has no merit whatever. I have a 1949 3LW and replaced the original washable gauze version with a Fram cartridge type filter. I still use SAE 30 oil (Morris Golden Film). Will this be OK or should I now use mild detergent oil? Thanks Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timleech Posted October 20, 2013 Report Share Posted October 20, 2013 (edited) I have a 1949 3LW and replaced the original washable gauze version with a Fram cartridge type filter. I still use SAE 30 oil (Morris Golden Film). Will this be OK or should I now use mild detergent oil? Thanks Tony Golden film is a mild detergent oil, CC grade, so ideal for the job. It is important for anyone who does use non-detergent oils in their diesel engine not to chop & change with detergent oils. The non-detergent oils can allow sludge buildup, and changing to detergent will tend to loosen that sludge and possibly deposit it in places where you really, really don't want it. That's why personally I'd rather use a mild detergent oil, engines run with straight oils can get really filthy inside. Tim They didn't. The spec oil for JPs was the military spec 160 which is a straight non detergent oil. As the older oil types became obselete the standard oil that replaced it was a CC oil. That is only because the old CA and CB grades are no longer available ( they were the commercial spec equivalent of Mil160 SAE20 &Mil200 CB SAE30). CC and CD are not so common these days , as no mainstream manufacturer really uses them these days. We can expect an uprating to the next detergency grade before too long. None of this detracts from the fact that early diesels were not designed to use detergent oils which did not exist when the engines first appeared.Use of them in unfiltered engines add nothing. My JP book definitely says that 'only the best Heavy Duty Diesel Engine (Detergent) lubricants are recommended'. Tim Edited October 20, 2013 by Timleech Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamraiser2 Posted October 20, 2013 Report Share Posted October 20, 2013 Hi Tim, All four of our Lister books say the Mil spec I mentioned before. Age of the books I suppose and relevant to product available at the time.If we live long enough they will be recommending vintage Mobil 1 ! Entirely agree about chopping and changing between oil types though. Wash it on , wash it off ! We only recommend Golden Film and shudder at those who use the supermarket recycled stuff. Ye gods! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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