Bilges and ballast

[Gazboatman]

Hi all, just a couple of questions regarding bilges and ballast.

 

I'm in the process of refitting my 50ft Springer and at the moment I'm redoing the floor as it was a bit wonky, plus I'm making it so all the boards can lifted around the new layout without me having to take the boat apart.

 

Now I just wanted to know about all the ballast I'm finding there is quite a lot in the bow end.

 

 

 

 

And loads in the middle.

 

 

 

and quite a bit near the stern end.

 

What I want to know is, is all this ballast to keep the boat stable in the water? I understand I'm going to have to move some from each side to balance the boat once the new fit out is complete.

 

Now the bilge query, I read on here somewhere there should be a dry bilge and a wet one at the rear of the boat and also there should be a solid bulkhead section separating the two. Now when we bought the boat there was a leak in the kitchen on the tap when used. So we were expecting water in the back of the dry bilge area, which there was. I drained most of it today but from what I can see the bilge under the engine on the rear of the boat seems to be connected to the dry bilge. Surely that can't be right?

Edited January 19, 2012 by Gazboatman

[bottle]

Some older 'Springers' only have one bilge and it will then be called a 'wet bilge'

 

The ballast does help stability but is also there to keep the boat at the right level in the water side to side and back to front.

[Gazboatman]

Some older 'Springers' only have one bilge and it will then be called a 'wet bilge'

 

The ballast does help stability but is also there to keep the boat at the right level in the water side to side and back to front.

 

Ok thanks just seems to be a lot more ballast than I expected but the boat didn't have a lot in it when we bought it so that's maybe why.

 

I'll have to drain it completely tomorrow and have a closer look, as I was expecting the bit under the engine to be seperate in case there was an oil leak or something.

[blackrose]

Since you have the floor up and have access, why not lay the ballast on thick strips of plastic or thick cables? This will allow any water that does get underneath from plumbing leaks, etc, to flow to the stern to be pumped out, and evaporate rather than getting trapped under the ballast and causing corrosion. Ideally you'd scurf out the bilges with wire wheels on an angle grinder and then paint them first.

Edited January 19, 2012 by blackrose

[PaulJ]

The 'bit under the engine' must be seperate but chances are all around this area is linked as most of them were. Your bilges do look remarkably clean though..Do you have a Front well on this boat and if so does it drain directly overboard or through the bilges?

[Gazboatman]

Since you have the floor up and have access, why not lay the ballast on thick strips of plastic or thick cables? This will allow any water that does get underneath from plumbing leaks, etc, to flow to the stern to be pumped out, and evaporate rather than getting trapped under the ballast and causing corrosion. Ideally you'd scurf out the bilges with wire wheels on an angle grinder and then paint them first.

It is a V shaped hull so we have just moved all the ballast outwards leaving about a foot either side in the middle I was planning on just give that area a good blast with a wire brush to remove the pitted rust and then paint with bitchumin based paint so the water runs smoothly and doesnt collect anywhere. But prob better with the angle grinder like you say.

 

ETA yea wasn't thinking about leaks, thats a good idea thanks.

 

The 'bit under the engine' must be seperate but chances are all around this area is linked as most of them were. Your bilges do look remarkably clean though..Do you have a Front well on this boat and if so does it drain directly overboard or through the bilges?

Yes there is a front well, and I did think they would be draining through the bilge, but they look bone dry and the front cratch cover has more holes than a fishing net, so I'm guessing it drains overboard. Havent seen any drain holes though.

Edited January 19, 2012 by Gazboatman

[blackrose]

It is a V shaped hull so we have just moved all the ballast outwards leaving about a foot either side in the middle I was planning on just give that area a good blast with a wire brush to remove the pitted rust and then paint with bitchumin based paint so the water runs smoothly and doesnt collect anywhere. But prob better with the angle grinder like you say.

 

If you use whizzy wheels on an angle grinder remember the eye protection. Those things shed wire bristles! Painful but inconsequential when they hit you in the face - possibly blinding if they hit you in the eyeball.

[Gazboatman]

If you use whizzy wheels on an angle grinder remember the eye protection. Those things shed wire bristles! Painful but inconsequential when they hit you in the face - possibly blinding if they hit you in the eyeball.

Had metal in the eye before, never again.

 

There is a larger area of rust at the stern end due to the leak, do you think it would be a good idea to clean all that area too and also paint or is that a bit over the top?

[blackrose]

Had metal in the eye before, never again.

 

There is a larger area of rust at the stern end due to the leak, do you think it would be a good idea to clean all that area too and also paint or is that a bit over the top?

 

I would scurf & paint any area of rusty bare metal that you have access to. Personally I'd use some sort of underwater primer like International Primocon before blacking. It's easy to apply, has good coverage and it dries very quickly. You're only going to do the job once so you may as well do it as best as you can. Scurfing is a horrible job but it's the only way you can really apply paint to those sort of surfaces.

 

http://marinestore.co.uk/PLYPA984-750.html

 

I think you're supposed to thin the first coat (about 10% by volume) with International Thinners No. 3, then you just paint subsequent coats on unthinned.

 

There are other brands such as Jotun Vinygard, but I think it's basically the same stuff.

 

http://www.smlmarinepaints.co.uk/files/library/files/Marine_Data_Sheets/Vinyguard_Silvergrey_88_Data_1110.pdf

 

Edit: No doubt people will have other ideas on which paint systems to use. Just don't use red oxide primer or any other paints which aren't designed for underwater applications.

Edited January 19, 2012 by blackrose

[Gazboatman]

I would scurf & paint any area of rusty bare metal that you have access to. Personally I'd use some sort of underwater primer like International Primocon before blacking. It's easy to apply, has good coverage and it dries very quickly. You're only going to do the job once so you may as well do it as best as you can. Scurfing is a horrible job but it's the only way you can really apply paint to those sort of surfaces.

 

http://marinestore.co.uk/PLYPA984-750.html

 

I think you're supposed to thin the first coat (about 10% by volume) with International Thinners No. 3, then you just paint subsequent coats on unthinned.

 

There are other brands such as Jotun Vinygard, but I think it's basically the same stuff.

 

http://www.smlmarinepaints.co.uk/files/library/files/Marine_Data_Sheets/Vinyguard_Silvergrey_88_Data_1110.pdf

 

Edit: No doubt people will have other ideas on which paint systems to use. Just don't use red oxide primer or any other paints which aren't designed for underwater applications.

 

 

Ok cheers, if I do go down this route, I'll probably paint the lot.

[smileypete]

Ok cheers, if I do go down this route, I'll probably paint the lot.

Try contacting someone like Spencer Coatings or Flag Finishes to see what they recommend for the bilge of a steel boat. Or just google for 'steel boat bilge paint'

 

I'd avoid any bitumen coating, if you spill anything oil based down there it'll soak into the coating and make a right mess. BTDTGTTS

 

cheers,

Pete.

Edited January 19, 2012 by smileypete

[RobinJ]

It is a V shaped hull so we have just moved all the ballast outwards leaving about a foot either side in the middle I was planning on just give that area a good blast with a wire brush to remove the pitted rust and then paint with bitchumin based paint so the water runs smoothly and doesnt collect anywhere. But prob better with the angle grinder like you say.

Remember its likely to be 1/4" thick, so gently with grinding etc.

If the boat is in the water while your working, you can see what effect moving the ballast has. If not, then you can weigh it and get a rough idea how much is where! Keys things are prop/rudder is at right depth, boat is level when fully laden. Side to side is more difficult!

Many Springers had wooden bulkheads and were not always sealed as well as the BSS expects, but because of the V hull, it is less of a problem having a wet bilge.

Make sure any area in the bilge is dry before painting and it has chance to harden, otherwise it will just wash off.

[keble]

Some older 'Springers' only have one bilge and it will then be called a 'wet bilge'

 

The ballast does help stability but is also there to keep the boat at the right level in the water side to side and back to front.

One important point of having ballast is to stop the boat tilting too much, if say all aboard are standing to one side.

I have heard about a tilt test; someone here could advise I think.

My boat did not have enough ballast when built and it could tilt alarmingly!

[davewally]

If you use whizzy wheels on an angle grinder remember the eye protection. Those things shed wire bristles! Painful but inconsequential when they hit you in the face - possibly blinding if they hit you in the eyeball.

 

Please make it goggles not safety specs.

I had one embed a wire in my cheek once. Deep enougth to need tweezers to get it out.

 

Dave