Replacement chainsaw chains

[midsnick]

Some tool hire companies will supply replacement chains for chainsaws.

 

Don't know if they will beat online prices though.

[blackrose]

I fitted a new chain to my chainsaw today and it goes through big logs like a hot knife through butter.

 

However, when I put it down to move the logs the chain sometimes keeps spinning so I have to apply the chain brake in case I forget and step anywhere near it while it's on the ground. It's not ideal - and a bit dangerous.

 

My owner's manual just says not to use it if that happens, but does anyone know how I can rectify it. I think the chain is properly tensioned - it can be revolved by hand but doesn't sag at the bottom.

 

Thanks

Edited December 28, 2011 by blackrose

[Timleech]

I fitted a new chain to my chainsaw today and it goes through big logs like a hot knife through butter.

 

However, when I put it down to move the logs the chain sometimes keeps spinning so I have to apply the chain brake in case I forget and step anywhere near it while it's on the ground. It's not ideal - and a bit dangerous.

 

My owner's manual just says not to use it if that happens, but does anyone know how I can rectify it. I think the chain is properly tensioned - it can be revolved by hand but doesn't sag at the bottom.

 

Thanks

 

Maybe the idle speed has crept up a bit? Does your book tell you how to adjust that?

 

Tim

[Bat & Frog]

Sounds like the tickover is slightly high (have you checked air filter recently), could be that the chain is also slightly loose (most chains stretch when 1st fitted). Need to watch out when tightening chains as do them cold and they can tighten as saw warms up. Other thing is when tightening useful to rest the bar nose on a log so bar and chain are in position they will be when cutting. Officially you should always put chain break on when taking a hand off chainsaw, and you are meant to let chain stop spinning before you put it on, less stress !

Sorry can't be any more help without seeing it.

[tree monkey]

Sounds like the tickover is slightly high (have you checked air filter recently), could be that the chain is also slightly loose (most chains stretch when 1st fitted). Need to watch out when tightening chains as do them cold and they can tighten as saw warms up. Other thing is when tightening useful to rest the bar nose on a log so bar and chain are in position they will be when cutting. Officially you should always put chain break on when taking a hand off chainsaw, and you are meant to let chain stop spinning before you put it on, less stress !

Sorry can't be any more help without seeing it.

 

spot on, check air filter and give the saw a general clean before adjusting anything see if that has any effect, if not there will be a tickover screw somewhere on the saw body, normaly near the filter, with the saw running adjust this screw until chain stops overrunning.

 

It is always good practice to engange chain break when removing your hands from the saw or walking with a running saw.

 

as mentioned watch the tension on a new chain they have to bed in a touch.

 

keep the chain sharp do not let it become blunt a quick once over with a file is easier than a full resharpen of a blunt chain

 

 

hope it goes well

[Justme]

Could also be the clutch springs getting weak allowing the clutch to engage at lower speeds.

 

As has been said, if you are moving about or putting the saw down the break should be on.

[blackrose]

Thanks all. I adjusted the chain tension with the bar lifted up so that should be ok. I'll check it again tomorrow and try to reduce the idling speed.

[blackrose]

On the subject of sharpening the chain, is this all I need?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CHAIN-FILE-FILING-SHARPENING-KIT-RYOBI-RCS3335-14-CHAINSAW-/140658173434?pt=UK_Home_Garden_GardenPowerTools_CA&hash=item20bfe165fa

 

I saw this sort of clamp arrangement for a Stil which seems quite good, but I don't know if it's available for my saw.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FILING-TOOL-sharpener-Stihl-chainsaws-and-othersNEW-/390206975667?_trksid=p5197.m1374&_trkparms=algo%3DPI.WATCH%26otn%3D12%26po%3DLCA%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5257141392964613221

Edited December 30, 2011 by blackrose

[BEngo]

On the subject of sharpening the chain, is this all I need?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CHAIN-FILE-FILING-SHARPENING-KIT-RYOBI-RCS3335-14-CHAINSAW-/140658173434?pt=UK_Home_Garden_GardenPowerTools_CA&hash=item20bfe165fa

 

I saw this sort of clamp arrangement for a Stil which seems quite good, but I don't know if it's available for my saw.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FILING-TOOL-sharpener-Stihl-chainsaws-and-othersNEW-/390206975667?_trksid=p5197.m1374&_trkparms=algo%3DPI.WATCH%26otn%3D12%26po%3DLCA%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5257141392964613221

 

You only need a round file (not tapered) of the right diameter for your chain and a flat or mill file for when any topping of the guards is needed. However, to use a round file alone to sharpen a saw chain requires you to acquire the skill- which will take some practice. Your first link will help you achieve that skill more quickly. The second link will mean you don't need to acquire the skill, but will take longer to set up and cost more.

 

If you saw a lot of wood it's worth acquiring the skill and keeping it in practise. If not then the second device will enable to sharpen your saw when it eventually needs it.

 

You can also buy a widget for a Dremel multi-tool which sharpens saw chains.

 

N

[blackrose]

You only need a round file (not tapered) of the right diameter for your chain and a flat or mill file for when any topping of the guards is needed. However, to use a round file alone to sharpen a saw chain requires you to acquire the skill- which will take some practice. Your first link will help you achieve that skill more quickly. The second link will mean you don't need to acquire the skill, but will take longer to set up and cost more.

 

If you saw a lot of wood it's worth acquiring the skill and keeping it in practise. If not then the second device will enable to sharpen your saw when it eventually needs it.

 

You can also buy a widget for a Dremel multi-tool which sharpens saw chains.

 

N

 

Thanks. Since I moved out of London to a semi-rural mooring it makes sense to spend a few quid on these bits & pieces as there seems to be plenty of free wood around.

[BEngo]

Thanks. Since I moved out of London to a semi-rural mooring it makes sense to spend a few quid on these bits & pieces as there seems to be plenty of free wood around.

 

 

I assume from your postings that you are a chain saw novice. It might be worth looking for an agricultural college nearby- they usually run a chain-saw course. This will give you a good introduction to the best ways to use a saw for the various things it can do (and ensure you don't accidentally do a re-make of the Wraysbury chain saw massacre, I hope) as well as the basics of care and maintenance. If there is not one of these running near you then a few beers for someone who knows, in exchange for a basic lesson in use and sharpening will be well worth it. The big house in Windsor probably has a resident expert!

 

N

[Mac of Cygnet]

Thanks. Since I moved out of London to a semi-rural mooring it makes sense to spend a few quid on these bits & pieces as there seems to be plenty of free wood around.

 

How do you know it's free, ie unclaimed? I always collect wood from the side of the canal (bit more careful about rivers), but I'd be a bit more circumspect about helping myself around a mooring without permission. Firewood has a value - our postie makes a good bit on the side supplying logs, but he frequently has to pay farmers for fallen trees.

[blackrose]

How do you know it's free, ie unclaimed? I always collect wood from the side of the canal (bit more careful about rivers), but I'd be a bit more circumspect about helping myself around a mooring without permission. Firewood has a value - our postie makes a good bit on the side supplying logs, but he frequently has to pay farmers for fallen trees.

 

A sign saying "FREE WOOD, HELP YOURSELF" displayed at a neighbour's garden was a bit of a giveaway. I also got about a tonne from some blokes tree felling on a plot of land next to where I'm working on the river. They just wanted to get rid of it so they didn't have to load it up and take it away. I transported it all back to my boat over a few weeks last spring. There are always trees being cut back & felled around here.

[blackrose]

I assume from your postings that you are a chain saw novice. It might be worth looking for an agricultural college nearby- they usually run a chain-saw course. This will give you a good introduction to the best ways to use a saw for the various things it can do (and ensure you don't accidentally do a re-make of the Wraysbury chain saw massacre, I hope) as well as the basics of care and maintenance. If there is not one of these running near you then a few beers for someone who knows, in exchange for a basic lesson in use and sharpening will be well worth it. The big house in Windsor probably has a resident expert!

 

N

 

Yes, I'm a novice. I think the key is to have a reasonable amount of confidence so that you can actually use the chainsaw efficiently (as opposed to being scared of it), while maintaining a healthy respect for the hazards of the machine.

[cereal tiller]

Well, you learn something every day. I've had two chains break and one come off in the past fortnight and didn't realise that little bit of metal has preserved my hand. Thank you!

Just read a BBC report about man that was killed when he was using a chainsaw recently.

 

his throat was cut and he bled to death in front of his family.

 

i use my cordless chainsaw with gloves and goggles,if i use a mains electric or petrol saw i wear the full protective kit,visor ,gloves and chainsaw proof jacket and trousers.

 

a friend had a kick-back with a chainsaw and it instantly jammed on the padded fabric of his protctive jacket,all down to common sense really..

 

i had a chainsaw blade snap once,searched the vicinity for ages,but never found the blade,it might still be in orbit?

[blackrose]

Just read a BBC report about man that was killed when he was using a chainsaw recently.

 

his throat was cut and he bled to death in front of his family.

 

i use my cordless chainsaw with gloves and goggles,if i use a mains electric or petrol saw i wear the full protective kit,visor ,gloves and chainsaw proof jacket and trousers.

 

 

Sounds like we all might need throat guards too!

[Arthur Brown]

All timber has an owner, sometimes they are pleased to be rid of it sometimes they are annoyed by people stealing their crop and income.

 

Be aware that a chainsaw would be the saw of choice for wet tree wood but other saws will be better for dry hard log wood.

 

Yes the BS approved chainsaw PPE is expensive but in the end it is the only way of keeping flesh attached to bone in the expected way. Boots gaiters trousers jacket gloves helmet and visor are all important.

[Arthur Brown]

You could always get a few chains, sharpen them at night and use them by day. Or even send the blunt ones to a say sharpener and have some to use.