Replacement chainsaw chains

[blackrose]

Does anyone know where I can find good replacement chains for my Ryobi RCS3335 (14" blade).

 

I found Archer chains on ebay and they're quite cheap, but that's the bit that worries me. Will one end up snapping and ripping through my gloved hand?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140653373755?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

They're made in China as is everything these days. I've no idea where the chain that came with the saw was made - quite possibly China too? The chainsaw manual specifies that "low-kickback" replacement chains are used. I don't know if the Archer chain is low-kickback or not?

Edited December 19, 2011 by blackrose

[MIKE P]

Does anyone know where I can find good replacement chains for my Ryobi RCS3335 (14" blade).

 

I found Archer chains on ebay and they're quite cheap, but that's the bit that worries me. Will one end up snapping and ripping through my gloved hand?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140653373755?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

They're made in China as is everything these days. I've no idea where the chain that came with the saw was made - quite possibly China too? The chainsaw manual specifies that "low-kickback" replacement chains are used. I don't know if the Archer chain is low-kickback or not?

 

 

I have used Terry Bass Garden Machinery Services.

WWW.terrybass.co.uk

You could also try Shoulders of Shoreham, who I have also used.

www.shouldersofshoreham.co.uk

[tree monkey]

Does anyone know where I can find good replacement chains for my Ryobi RCS3335 (14" blade).

 

I found Archer chains on ebay and they're quite cheap, but that's the bit that worries me. Will one end up snapping and ripping through my gloved hand?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140653373755?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

They're made in China as is everything these days. I've no idea where the chain that came with the saw was made - quite possibly China too? The chainsaw manual specifies that "low-kickback" replacement chains are used. I don't know if the Archer chain is low-kickback or not?

 

as long as the specs on your original chain match the specs on your new chain all will be well.

 

to be honest for a bit of winter firewood i wouldnt worry about brand, i did when working full time and would only buy sthil chain but thats everyday use and it made a differance then.

 

If you need guidance on the right specs for the replacement chain take the saw to any chainsaw dealer and they will find the right pitch and gugue keep the box for future guidance.

 

 

The most important thing to stop the chain wraping around your hand is the chain catcher fitted under the bar towards the front of the saw, its a small "l" shapped piece of metal or moulded plastic, trust me it works and you should only use the saw when fitted.

 

Hope this helps if i can help anymore just ask

[blackrose]

I have used Terry Bass Garden Machinery Services.

WWW.terrybass.co.uk

You could also try Shoulders of Shoreham, who I have also used.

www.shouldersofshoreham.co.uk

 

Thanks I'll check those out.

 

as long as the specs on your original chain match the specs on your new chain all will be well.

 

to be honest for a bit of winter firewood i wouldnt worry about brand, i did when working full time and would only buy sthil chain but thats everyday use and it made a differance then.

 

If you need guidance on the right specs for the replacement chain take the saw to any chainsaw dealer and they will find the right pitch and gugue keep the box for future guidance.

 

 

The most important thing to stop the chain wraping around your hand is the chain catcher fitted under the bar towards the front of the saw, its a small "l" shapped piece of metal or moulded plastic, trust me it works and you should only use the saw when fitted.

 

Hope this helps if i can help anymore just ask

 

Thanks. The Archer chain is certainly the correct spec.

 

I'll have to see if my saw has the catcher you mentioned - it's a fairly new saw but I don't remember seeing it?

Edited December 19, 2011 by blackrose

[tree monkey]

Thanks I'll check those out.

 

 

 

Thanks. The Archer chain is certainly the correct spec.

 

I'll have to see if my saw has the catcher you mentioned - it's a fairly new saw but I don't remember seeing it?

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Chainsaw_chain_catcher.jpg

 

wiki page showing catcher, for such a small bit of metal it has honestly saved a few hands mine included

[Rojja]

Does anyone know where I can find good replacement chains for my Ryobi RCS3335 (14" blade).

 

 

This company is my favorite (for pricing and service)

 

http://www.newsawchains.co.uk

 

Roj.

[blackrose]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Chainsaw_chain_catcher.jpg

 

wiki page showing catcher, for such a small bit of metal it has honestly saved a few hands mine included

 

Smaller than I thought. In that case I think I have seen it on mine.

[tree monkey]

Smaller than I thought. In that case I think I have seen it on mine.

 

cool its such a small bit that makes such a differance, an imediate audit fail on our teams and a very common one

[blackrose]

.

Edited December 19, 2011 by blackrose

[tree monkey]

Thanks. Do you think the Oregon and Carlton chains are better quality than the Archer one I pasted a link for above?

 

They should be at 2 or 3 times the price.

 

couldnt say i always used sthil or husky, the odd time i used oregon i thought they were too soft and easly worn but unless you really know how to sharpen and use a saw i would go cheaper end of the market, most of the knackered chains i have seen were through poor sharpening methods and cheap makes sense in that case

 

excuse me if you do know how to sharpen a chain properly, it just many don't, including many so called profesionals, its a knack i have to work at and now i dont work on the saw full time my sharpening is shakey at times

[blackrose]

 

This company is my favorite (for pricing and service)

 

http://www.newsawchains.co.uk

 

Roj.

 

Thanks. Do you think the Oregon and Carlton chains are better quality than the Archer one I pasted a link for above?

 

They should be at 2 or 3 times the price.

[Bob18]

I've seen those bits of bent metal and pondered on their function as cheap stuff doesn't normally have things that aren't needed.

[blackrose]

couldnt say i always used sthil or husky, the odd time i used oregon i thought they were too soft and easly worn but unless you really know how to sharpen and use a saw i would go cheaper end of the market, most of the knackered chains i have seen were through poor sharpening methods and cheap makes sense in that case

 

excuse me if you do know how to sharpen a chain properly, it just many don't, including many so called profesionals, its a knack i have to work at and now i dont work on the saw full time my sharpening is shakey at times

 

No I don't know how to sharpen properly, which is why I'm buying a couple of new chains. If you're saying "go cheap" then should I stick with the original cheap Archer chains and just keep replacing them? My main issue is that I want a low kickback chain and one that won't snap. I can't find anything which says low kickback on the Archer specs.

[tree monkey]

No I don't know how to sharpen properly, which is why I'm buying a couple of new chains. If you're saying "go cheap" then should I stick with the original cheap Archer chains and just keep replacing them? My main issue is that I want a low kickback chain and one that won't snap. I can't find anything which says low kickback on the Archer specs.

 

I would be supprised if they are not low kick back i doubt you could buy non low kickback now, I have to ask for non low kick back (chipper chain) and most small saw chains are these days

[blackrose]

I would be supprised if they are not low kick back i doubt you could buy non low kickback now, I have to ask for non low kick back (chipper chain) and most small saw chains are these days

 

Ok, thanks.

[tree monkey]

I've seen those bits of bent metal and pondered on their function as cheap stuff doesn't normally have things that aren't needed.

 

trust me they work, its an odd feeling looking down at the chain below your hand when it should be safely wrapped around the bar

[David Mack]

I have used Terry Bass Garden Machinery Services.

WWW.terrybass.co.uk

You could also try Shoulders of Shoreham, who I have also used.

www.shouldersofshoreham.co.uk

 

I don't know about chainsaw blades, but Shoulders of Shoreham's service for mower parts is first class.

 

(No connection except as a very satisfied customer.)

 

David

[Timleech]

I would be supprised if they are not low kick back i doubt you could buy non low kickback now, I have to ask for non low kick back (chipper chain) and most small saw chains are these days

 

'domestic' saws seem to be fitted with a chain with a much lower percentage of cutting teeth than on 'serious' saws. Is this what makes them 'low kick back'?

 

Incidentally, how do you (OP) get on with the Ryobi saw? I bought a Ryobi electric for cutting firewood on the sawing horse, but I've given up with it because the tensioning arrangement is useless, won't hold the chain tight & it's forever coming off. If it weren't for that, it would have been OK for the price.

 

Tim

Edited December 19, 2011 by Timleech

[tree monkey]

'domestic' saws seem to be fitted with a chain with a much lower percentage of cutting teeth than on 'serious' saws. Is this what makes them 'low kick back'?

 

Tim

 

no its the angle and length of the rakers/depth guages just before the cutting tooth

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chainsaw_safety_features#Kickback_reducing_systems

[blackrose]

 

 

Incidentally, how do you (OP) get on with the Ryobi saw? I bought a Ryobi electric for cutting firewood on the sawing horse, but I've given up with it because the tensioning arrangement is useless, won't hold the chain tight & it's forever coming off. If it weren't for that, it would have been OK for the price.

 

Tim

 

My Ryobi is a 2 stroke petrol. Cost about 90 quid from Screwfix a couple of years ago. It's not bad, just a bit small with only 14" blade. It can cut some reasonably large logs for its size, but I should probably have gone for a bigger saw. It's that old problem of storage on the boat. Also it's my first chainsaw and I thought I could probably handle a baby chainsaw easier than a bigger one. It's a noisy bugger though - probably did my neighbour's heads in yesterday! Cut enough logs in a few hours to last me a couple of weeks - it's saving me a small fortune in coal this year.

Edited December 19, 2011 by blackrose

[tree monkey]

My Ryobi is a 2 stroke petrol. Cost about 90 quid from Screwfix a couple of years ago. It's not bad, just a bit small with only 14" blade. It can cut some reasonably large logs for its size, but I should probably have gone for a bigger saw. It's that old problem of storage on the boat. Also it's my first chainsaw and I thought I could probably handle a baby chainsaw easier than a bigger one. It's a noisy bugger though - probably did my neighbour's heads in last Sunday!

 

sorry i will bugger off in a second

 

its all about engine size a large saw cc wise will drive a small and a large bar (not at the same time), oftern the saws you see in aldi etc have too large a bar for the engine capacity, so go for as large a engine size and run the smallest bar you can, then the cutting will be sooo much easier

[blackrose]

sorry i will bugger off in a second

 

its all about engine size a large saw cc wise will drive a small and a large bar (not at the same time), oftern the saws you see in aldi etc have too large a bar for the engine capacity, so go for as large a engine size and run the smallest bar you can, then the cutting will be sooo much easier

 

I see. I think mine has a 33cc engine.

[Mac of Cygnet]

trust me they work, its an odd feeling looking down at the chain below your hand when it should be safely wrapped around the bar

 

Well, you learn something every day. I've had two chains break and one come off in the past fortnight and didn't realise that little bit of metal has preserved my hand. Thank you!

[Timleech]

no its the angle and length of the rakers/depth guages just before the cutting tooth

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chainsaw_safety_features#Kickback_reducing_systems

 

Actually that article does seem to say that the extra 'dead' links do play a part:-

 

"Full safety chains have extra bumper links between the cutting links, maintaining nearly full depth gauge height along the full extent of the chain and reducing the risk of kickback to very low levels. Full safety (bumpered) chains are often fitted as original equipment to domestic and entry level saws."

 

Tim

[tree monkey]

Actually that article does seem to say that the extra 'dead' links do play a part:-

 

"Full safety chains have extra bumper links between the cutting links, maintaining nearly full depth gauge height along the full extent of the chain and reducing the risk of kickback to very low levels. Full safety (bumpered) chains are often fitted as original equipment to domestic and entry level saws."

 

Tim

 

ok thats prob me forgetting quite how much of a err extra link amauter saw chains have, sometimes they seem more link than tooth, its all about stopping the tooth taking too large and sudden bite out of the wood, working on softwoods i will file down the depth guauge more than the recomended amount because well, its softwood, not something thats recomeded.

 

as an aside i have been caught out by this one or twice so not recomended