Rojja

Cosmic, I've always found JCR Supplies very helpful. 380 Forest Rd London E17 5JF 020 8521 6494 Roj.

These relays are not suitable for the purpose. When switching, when both (unsynchronised)ac supplies become available, the relay's contacts are subjected to ~490 volts ac (650V peak) and that's without any back emf spikes from the connected devices. As it stands, be prepared to expect trips to trip, fuses to blow and the relay contacts to vaporise. I've had to sort this simple 'solution' too many times. Separate mechanically interlocked devices is one correct solution. Roj.

This site has loads of good information to help with your decision. Roger.

Pump out or cassette? Roj.

The 'centre tapped resistor is (from memory) 150ohm overall but the outer ends are connected giving 75 ohm. This resistor is permanantly connected between D & F to quench the considerable back emf when the voltage or the current regulator contacts open. If you're measuring 500 ohms between D&F on the reg I think something is awry. The field resistance is ~6 ohms increasing to 7 when the dynamo is hot. With 12-15 volts it won't be much above 2 Amps. With a SIF engine you won't want to do that. The dynamo will stuff 25 amps into a discharged good battery (12 ish volts) and will be held back because it won't be reaching it's maximum torque (rpm) at this load. Sorry, I don't quite follow the above. Yes, a diode will prevent the dynamo motoring, however a a decent relay across the diode will (as with the one I made) allow the dynamo to auto start the SIF No! Been there. These dynamos will only produce useful output turning clockwise looking at the drive end. Rotating then anticlock they will only produce about 2-3volts with D&F connected at 6000rpm. The one I cobbled together about 20 years ago and is still going strong has a three coil regulator which can be overidden by a switch. The engine is overloaded when this was done so I've added a 4R7 resistor to the field which allows the poor little engine to get on its cam! By the way the generators fierld current max's out at 2 amps (pushing 27 amps into a flat, good, 220 ah battey) but beware, always keep at least 100ohms between the field-F and the armature -D as the open circuit back emf if opened without will surprise! There's some (big) pic's of my bodge at http://www.rgee.co.uk/temp/SIFgen/1.JPG for more, if you're brave change the last bit to 2.JPG to 6.JPG Sorry to go on so much, Roj.

500 1p coins wouldn't make him too happy. Roj

There was often evidence that it was quite 'nippy' out on deck. Roj.

Tim, From my laptop it works fine, from this box it doesn't so... I've copied it to here:- Fingers crossed Q) What odds do I give for it working? A) Equal or less than unity Roj.

With a bit of fiddling http://misterton.squarespace.com/storage/j.../Listerleak.JPG Mebbe this will work Maybe it won't Roj

I agree, my GX340 also on a Stephill (5kVA) starts then cuts out if the oil level is below the maximum mark, particularly when the weather's cool. Since being caught out, I now keep the oil level about 1/4" above max. Also make sure that the unit is started on a level surface. Roger

Then why don't you skip your tub? What's wrong with swimming? Sheesh! Roj.

Maybe dry bearing(s) in the cooling fan? This can the cause a cyclic intermittent screech/rattle type noise. Roj.

Thanks for letting us know that it turned out well, although it's a shame you don't really get to know what the problem was. I bet when you got it back together and it came to life again, you were a very happy bunny. Well done. Roj.

Tony, maybe this the link you mentioned is this one Draper's Paloma problem Although the fault on mine was somewhat different to Hearingdog's, the page might be of some help to him. As his main burner lights then extinguishes as the water flows through the heater, after checking the venturi holes, I'd have a careful look at the spring loaded water valve(s) in the water temperature control's body, which 'seem' to modulate the water flow being controlled by the position of the diaphragm. I suspect that they are there to allow a increased flow of water when a hot tap is initially opened (burner unlit) if they're stuck the flow through the venturi would suffer causing the main burner to go out. These comments are probably worth less than was paid for them. Cheers and good luck, Roger.

There's the Lea Valley Boat Centre at Broxbourne, on the River Lea. A day or two cruising to get on to the Regents. Rojja.

Hello Androo, It <might> be an 'emergency' switch to connect the two banks together, say, to get out of trouble in case one of the banks gets discharged. If so, it could also be used to enable charging both banks from just one charger. This information is probably worth less than you paid for it. Roj.

It certainly does, I've measured ~40A initially fot the operate winding, dropping to ~3A for the hold winding. A longish length of 'bell wire' can prevent the solonoid from pulling in. Roj