Bell housing broken

[Brucec]

Hi all,

The bell housing between my BMC 1.8 engine and Hurth HBW125-2 gearbox is cracked and I'm wondering where to start hunting down a replacement, preferably second hand. I've already spoken to Calcutt but I would like to research a few alternatives if anybody has any suggestions please.

 

While I'm at it, I need to replace the engine mountings. My problem is that there are so many available, and I've no idea which ones I should get... The gearbox attaches to a flexible coupling, but I don't know what make or model as there seems to be nothing written on it. However, I do know that it isn't an Aquadrive or similar. It has a black rubber section between two metal plates... Any engine mountings advice would be most welcome.

 

Many thanks in advance...

Bruce

[Bob18]

Posting a picture of the coupling that would help the identification process - as you've found already there are a number of similar items that aren't quite the same.

[RobinJ]

Hi all,

The bell housing between my BMC 1.8 engine and Hurth HBW125-2 gearbox is cracked and I'm wondering where to start hunting down a replacement, preferably second hand. I've already spoken to Calcutt but I would like to research a few alternatives if anybody has any suggestions please.

 

While I'm at it, I need to replace the engine mountings. My problem is that there are so many available, and I've no idea which ones I should get... The gearbox attaches to a flexible coupling, but I don't know what make or model as there seems to be nothing written on it. However, I do know that it isn't an Aquadrive or similar. It has a black rubber section between two metal plates... Any engine mountings advice would be most welcome.

There are a number of sources for bellhousings as well as Calcutt, but I suspect the prices will be all be very similar. Most are designed to accept any Hurth or PRM gearbox.

You don't say where it is cracked, is it the mounting brackets that have cracked or the main casting?

How much space is there between the engine brackets and the bearers, stand off type mountings are easily obtained, you just need to check on the weight capability of the various types as the BMC 1.8 is quite heavy relative to modern engines.

[steelaway]

Hi all,

The bell housing between my BMC 1.8 engine and Hurth HBW125-2 gearbox is cracked and I'm wondering where to start hunting down a replacement, preferably second hand. I've already spoken to Calcutt but I would like to research a few alternatives if anybody has any suggestions please.

 

While I'm at it, I need to replace the engine mountings. My problem is that there are so many available, and I've no idea which ones I should get... The gearbox attaches to a flexible coupling, but I don't know what make or model as there seems to be nothing written on it. However, I do know that it isn't an Aquadrive or similar. It has a black rubber section between two metal plates... Any engine mountings advice would be most welcome.

 

Many thanks in advance...

Bruce

 

 

 

Hi

 

It may well be possible to have the housing welded. Alloy welding is quite common these days

A standard NB coupling is made by Centraflex and has a good reputation.

I know nothing about engine mountings - sorry

 

Alex

[RLWP]

Have you thought about having the bellhousing welded up?

 

Richard

[Brucec]

Thanks everyone for the rapid replies.

 

I'm out at the moment but I'll post a photo of the coupling later.

 

@RobinJ - Calcutt tell me they don't have anything new or second hand and aren't likely to for some time, so it would be a great help to me if you could list some of those other sources. The engine stands up about 2 - 3 inches off the bearers. I can't be more precise because the engine is currently sitting on the deck where I can crack my shin on it every evening

 

As for welding: the housing is cracked at the rear RH foot (RH as you look at it from the front). The entire foot has broken away. Again I'll post photos of it later. I did consider having it welded up but because the break is right at the most critical point form a weight-bearing point of view, and because the pieces are a little chewed up and some metal is missing, I thought going for a new one might be best. But I'd certainly reconsider if people think a welded repair would be as strong as the original.

 

Thanks again,

Bruce

[RLWP]

I would give welding a go. It means you won't have to mess around if you end up with a slightly different bellhousing, and the worst that could happen is that it breaks again

 

Richard

[Brucec]

If I were to go the welding route, can anybody recommend someone reliable in or near North / East London who I could discuss it with?

 

Cheers,

B

[RobinJ]

@RobinJ - Calcutt tell me they don't have anything new or second hand and aren't likely to for some time, so it would be a great help to me if you could list some of those other sources. The engine stands up about 2 - 3 inches off the bearers. I can't be more precise because the engine is currently sitting on the deck where I can crack my shin on it every evening

Like

Bellhousing

Or

Another

There are probably a few more!

[Brucec]

Thanks again for all the input.

 

Here are some pics.

 

The coupling:

And again:

 

The bellhousing:

And another:

 

Any thoughts on how to remove the coupling from the prop shaft? I undid the 8 bolts on the back but it doesn't want to shift at all...

 

Cheers

[steelaway]

It looks like a Cetraflex to me.This might help.............................My link

Although I have never taken mine off, it looks like there are bolts axially onto the shaft.

The bell housing will certainly weld and it wont have to be oil tight.

 

Alex

[Old Son]

I am sure my coupling is similar to yours. I left my coupling connected to the gear box, undid the 8 bolts then screwed 4 of them into the four holes that were empty before you removed the 8 bolts (if that makes sense) Screwing the bolts in opens up the taper inside the coupling or something like that.

[Brucec]

That all makes sense.

 

I'll try and find an aluminium welder on Monday. And I'll put four bolts in those holes and give it a little tap with a big hammer.

 

Cheers everyone - starting to feel like I'm getting somewhere. Finally.

 

B

[Chalky]

That all makes sense.

 

I'll try and find an aluminium welder on Monday. And I'll put four bolts in those holes and give it a little tap with a big hammer.

 

Cheers everyone - starting to feel like I'm getting somewhere. Finally.

 

B

 

I saw one on ebay last night

[WotEver]

I saw one on ebay last night

Cheap too, at present, although it looks completely different to OP's.

 

Tony

 

edit 'cos my name's not Tpny

Edited October 22, 2011 by WotEver

[Brucec]

That one on eBay's only half a one! Just the adaptor - you also need the Hurth cover plate to make it work. Could be a cheapish option, but I've found a welder so I'm going to look into that angle first.

 

Meantime I've tried tightening the bolts into the empty 4 threads in the coupling and giving the whole assembly what you might call a sharp tap or two.

 

Nothing.

 

Time for a more brutal assault?

 

That kind of thing always makes me nervous when I'm not sure how something works.

 

B

Edited October 22, 2011 by Brucec

[WotEver]

That kind of thing always makes me nervous when I'm not sure how something works.

Agreed. Not that my agreement helps you very much but I thought you might appreciate the moral support

[Brucec]

Agreed. Not that my agreement helps you very much but I thought you might appreciate the moral support

 

Thanks, I do

[RobinJ]

Thanks again for all the input.

 

Here are some pics.

 

The coupling:

And again:

 

Any thoughts on how to remove the coupling from the prop shaft? I undid the 8 bolts on the back but it doesn't want to shift at all...

Yep a centraflex, the bolts on the other side can be removed, you then re insert two into the holes near the centre and it dprings the cone out and it all falls off!