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tongue and groove roof


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Pine will bend ok, treated timber is fine, screw metal tags to the batten, then weld in position. At some point, inevitably, a T+G board will need cutting, whether down the middle or at the edges, but that would be down to personal preference for finishing.

Regards

Dan

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Hi just refitting my springer can any one tell me the best way to t & g the roof, by this i mean how do i put battens up to fix the t & g,how do i fasten the battens up and what wood do i use that will bend thanks

 

Use battens, you can soak them in water for a couple of days which will let them bend easier. You can also notch out the back of the batten running saw cuts about every inch or so about half way through the batten mostly near the ends, this will then easily form to the curve.

 

You can then use TEK screws (self drilling screws) these will screw through the batten pre drill the steel and self tap the screw home in one operation. You will need a good quality 240 volt power drill though to get these to screw in efficiently. I would use 4 screws per batten on a NB

 

http://www.shop4fast...ling_Screws.asp

 

 

To fit the T&G you can get invisible clips so no screws or holes show at all. We actually screwed and plugged ours, but it's hard tedious work.

 

http://www.floordesi...250pc-965-p.asp

 

You can buy cheap thin T&G pine from B&Q however I would recommend 12 to15mm T&G with 2 inch insulation behind. Hardwood 10mm +

Edited by Julynian
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Hi just refitting my springer can any one tell me the best way to t & g the roof, by this i mean how do i put battens up to fix the t & g,how do i fasten the battens up and what wood do i use that will bend thanks

 

I fixed all my battons with No Nails and they never budge. If you do not want to show the fixings in the t and g use panel pins on the male edge of the t ang g board and when the next panel is fitted the pins are hidden inside the female edge.

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I fixed all my battons with No Nails and they never budge. If you do not want to show the fixings in the t and g use panel pins on the male edge of the t ang g board and when the next panel is fitted the pins are hidden inside the female edge.

 

 

 

Last weekend I removed some lower panelling in the back cabin about 8 f/t forward from the engine room bulkhead either side.

 

When I originally fitted the studding for lower panelling the only place I couldn't screw was under the gunwale for obvious reasons. So when constructing the studding i did so by using EVO no more nails on the top strip of batten to adhere it to the underside of the gunwale. This was then wedged in with the studding uprights all the way through the boat so in effect clamping the batten to the gunwale, the glue that oozed out was fingered in leaving a nice sealed edge.

 

When removing the panels this weekend though, It was instantly apparent that this glue had failed, the top of the studding on both sides could be moved back and forth with ease and you can clearly see the adhesive still stuck to the gunwale and the glue edge where I fingered it in, but as the wood has shrunk and dried the glue has dislodged from the timber. I then checked further up the boat, and all the way up on both sides the panelling moves and has dislodged. This was all fitted 6 years ago.

 

Fortunately the upper cabin panelling now overlaps the lower, so I can resolve this problem easily by screwing at an angle through the bottom of the upper panelling straight into the batten that's come loose making it all rigid again.

 

This type glue is no good for boats on it's own, used in conjunction with screws it works really well.

 

I also know someone in the Bristol boat yard we were at for some time, fit all his roof and side battens with this type glue.

 

We met him a couple of years later on the K&A and his panelling was hanging like curtains sagging out at the bottom. Yet the roof looks ok, however press your hand on it and it moves slightly up and down, the only reason it stays where it is. Is because the battens are pressing against the cabin sides creating a natural arch, but it's clear the glue has failed.

 

This type glue is too brittle especially when it dries out after time, it just isn't worth the risk when screws are so cheap.

 

 

 

 

 

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I have just replaced all the T&G in my boat, but replaced it with matchboard with beading. It looks just like T&G but a damn site easier to fit, durable, and easier to paint (that is of course if you were intending on painting your T&G, I think it makes a boat feel so much bigger and airier). Glued and screwed the batons into the steel bearers, and then I used turbogolds and a bit of stixall for the boards. Jobs a gooden :)

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