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CHAINSAWS


Sue1946

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Hi Sue.

 

Quote from a post that was running last August;

 

"We all know people that cannot be trusted to use a pencil sharpener without causing some form of mayhem. Here we have a 'socially responsible' national retailer selling CHAINSAWS to anyone who cares to buy one.

 

These things can be lethal even to a person experienced in the use of power tools, no offer of safety instruction no safety clothing. If you work in industry you must attend a training course and be given all manner of protective clothing before you are let loose with these things."

 

Just to repeat Chainsaws are very dangerous things to use even for chaps who use power tools on a daily basis, I would think twice before buying one.

 

I have a hand operated circular saw which I use for all kinds of jobs including firewood, even these can be risky, they can take a couple of fingers off in a flash but at least there is a cover over the blade.

Edited by John Orentas
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The only chainsaw i've ever used is a stihl rollermatic (14" petrol jobby), it was quite old, but worked a treat, very relyable.

- I presume you lookng for an electric one tho, seeing as yuo mention the ryobi?

 

I also agree with john, they are very dangous, and you should be carfull, and take suitable precations.

- I was waering toecaps, touch gloves, and safty glasses at the time.

- Also, make sure noone is standing inline with the blade, in case it breaks.

 

[edit]

Also, just to add after malc's post mentioning cost.

- I was watching a woodsman working to cut up a ash tree for charcoaling, and one thing i noticed was how little he was using the chain saw.

- He would cut a large lump off with it, but then spend 5mins with the axe dicing it into more sensable peices.

- He said it was simple becuase of the cost of blades/petrol/servicing etc. And its often quicker with the axe anyway.

 

 

 

Daniel

Edited by dhutch
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Hi Sue. A friend is a professional woodman, and he told me a couple of years ago that the ones costing £50/150 are ok for pruning the apple tree, but you need to spend £400ish for a proper one. The difference is in the engine. They have proper cylinder liners and will last years.

 

There is nothing worse than a saw that won't start.

 

Agree with John in that they can be very dangerous. He won't take the chance of letting me borrow one, prefering to give me a few bags of wood.

 

It's also worth remembering they are expensive to run, so even if you get free wood, it's often cheaper to buy logs already cut. (Another friend has just fitted a woodburner, and has just found this out)

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Personally I won't touch them. But...

 

if you do get one that has a 'cut out' safety feature, my dad didn't have one and fell off his ladder - the chainsaw was a cigarette paper from his neck when he landed... (he had a chain saw graze)

 

were in not for angels.....................

Edited by Bones
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Apart from being able to swiftly remove limbs, not to mention heads, even a minor "cut" with a chain saw doesn't just cut the flesh, but removes a whole section. The result is a wound that is very prone to infection, very slow to heal, and can leave permanent disability from even an apparently superficial wound.

 

Don't even think of using one without attending a proper training course. There are certain things, kick-up from the nose for instance, that can easily catch you unawares. And if you don't know what "kick-up from the nose" means, you shouldn't even look at one.

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perhaps we would be better with an axe. Never chopped logs for a fire before. Is it just as easy although it will take more effort i guess.

 

Two different things.

 

You need a saw to cut across the log, then an axe to split them. Neither is suitable for the other task.

 

If you do get some slices of logs, consider a wedge and sledge. Much better than an axe for large logs or logs with twisty grain, like elm.

 

And my preferred chain saw is a 16 inch Jonsered.

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Has anyone not thought of using one of those sabre saw units where the blade goes back and forward. I have a cordless one (cheap brand name) with a coarse rip cutting blade about 4 inches long. Perfect for ripping small logs and boards. Everything else I would use a bow saw - quicker sometimes than having to start a petrol chainsaw.

 

carl

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Hi everyone

Have been looking at chainsaws in the Screw Fix book. Can anyone advise best type ie blade length/c.c./make. Any experiance of the manufacturer RYOBI.screwfix

 

 

I used to use a petrol Stihl supposedly the best, at the time anyway.

 

They are very powerfull tool and can be dangerous, but aren`t all power tools?

They need an oil lubricant on the blade as they cut, and you will need a special sharpener that will need useing often.

 

If you are just wanting it to make a film I suppose a cheaper model would be fine :lol:

 

The one power tool I would definately not own under any circumstances would be a Nail gun, Did you see that guy on TV who fell and it fired and went right thru him and he didnt even know other than he heard it go off?

Missed death by an fraction.

 

By the way it did knackerd his life up too.

Edited by Pirate
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Ps... Just a late thought on the saw thingy,

 

I purchased a bow type saw for £3 it had big teeth and was dead easy to use and really fast and quite effortless. You might like to try these before wasteing lots of money, unless of course you have tons of wood to cut

Edited by Pirate
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Ps... Just a late thought on the saw thingy,

 

I purchased a bow type saw for £3 it had big teeth and was dead easy to use and really fast and quite effortless. You might like to try these before wasteing lots of money, unless of course you have tons of wood to cut

I agree. a modern bowsaw with a razor sharp blade is excellent, and so cheap you just replace it when it gets blunt.

 

I have had a couple of sabre saws but they go through expensive blades very quickly. nothing quite so bad as a blunt saw and being too mean to spend £15 on a new blade that will only last a week.

 

agree with John O. If you don't know what you're doing don't go near a chain saw. Same goes for large angle grinders, by the way. Training is essential. I don't understand how it can be so easy to buy such things off the shelf without proper guidance. Even the hire shops make an effort to recognise their duty of care.

 

............. waiting for John O to tell us how easy it is to sharpen saw blades :lol:

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I bought a 18'' one three years ago and have not even started it yet.

 

Can I borrow it for an hour :lol: Last year the chap who was clearing the old railway track, in preparationg for the cycle track, dropped a load on the bank for me.

 

Yet another friend, who would lend me one of his saws, had it stolen just before Christmas so other than huring myself with a bow saw, I'll have to make what I've got last.

 

Mind you, in my present condition I suppose it's better not to have one. Took me a few days to get over using one for half an hour last year.

Edited by Supermalc
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Can I borrow it for an hour :lol: Last year the chap who was clearing the old railway track, in preparationg for the cycle track, dropped a load on the bank for me.

 

Yet another friend, who would lend me one of his saws, had it stolen just before Christmas so other than huring myself with a bow saw, I'll have to make what I've got last.

 

Mind you, in my present condition I suppose it's better not to have one. Took me a few days to get over using one for half an hour last year.

 

 

I have a friend who owns one too, they call him Lefty.

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We have three bowsaws, a small trianular (21") one, thats usfull for single handed use, cuting of small branches, upto about 2/3" or 4/5" if you using both hands.

- Then we have a 30" bow saw, which we have used to fell (and cut up) trees well over a ft in diameter, and it can be used by eather one person (but you'l need both hands) or two people, one each side, taking it in turns to pull (then the other person pull the otherway, etc)

- Its slow work, but very satisfying. And we also have a 24", which we aquired (free) which is a nice inbtween size as well.

 

And as chris says, the blades are like £4 each, so when they start to go, just wizz them and put in a new one.

- Also, there are about 5diffrent types of teeth, dependinf on what your cutting, make sure you get a the right one.

 

 

Daniel

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perhaps we would be better with an axe. Never chopped logs for a fire before. Is it just as easy although it will take more effort i guess.

 

I grew up on a farm and used chainsaws from mid-teens. They are absolutely lethal, far more so than other hand power tools. Met a guy who gave himselfa frontal-lobe lobotomy with one. He could still eat without help, but not drive a car.

 

Get a bowsaw, and look for small wood - anything under 3" can probably be burnt without splitting. As someone said, bowsaws and axes do different jobs. You really need both. If you get an axe, get a full-size one, as light as you can find (easier on the muscles to start with). DON'T get a short-handled hatchet. If you miss the log with an axe you will hit the ground. Miss with a hatchet and you will probably hit your leg.

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I grew up on a farm and used chainsaws from mid-teens. They are absolutely lethal, far more so than other hand power tools. Met a guy who gave himselfa frontal-lobe lobotomy with one. He could still eat without help, but not drive a car.

 

Get a bowsaw, and look for small wood - anything under 3" can probably be burnt without splitting. As someone said, bowsaws and axes do different jobs. You really need both. If you get an axe, get a full-size one, as light as you can find (easier on the muscles to start with). DON'T get a short-handled hatchet. If you miss the log with an axe you will hit the ground. Miss with a hatchet and you will probably hit your leg.

 

It is absolutely amazing how quickly and easily the right saw will go through wood (and I used to saw up trunks of it). Its rewarding, good as part of your health/fitness regeme and its outdoors - lovely. Its even better in the pouring rain.

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Get a bowsaw, and look for small wood - anything under 3" can probably be burnt without splitting. As someone said, bowsaws and axes do different jobs. You really need both. If you get an axe, get a full-size one, as light as you can find (easier on the muscles to start with). DON'T get a short-handled hatchet. If you miss the log with an axe you will hit the ground. Miss with a hatchet and you will probably hit your leg.

Yeah, proberbly the best way.

 

Also, i would get a small/light hatchet as well, becuase although there usless, and possably dangous for spliting large wood up for logs, there just what you need for knocking a few of the log's you just made down into kindling to light the fire with.

- Something like this this is nice. We have one just like it at home, and a cheap (£8) look-a-like on the boat.

- There perfect for one-handed dicing of wood (we use pallet off cuts a lot as we can get them easyly, and there free, strightgrained, and dry)

 

 

Daniel

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There was this Irishman watching two lumberjacks (one big one small) cutting a big log with a two man saw. After a few minutes he goes to speak to the big one.

 

"If the little feller wants it, let him have it".

:):lol: it's the way yer tell 'em!

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Well just got back home and read all the postings. I have a feeling we will be getting a decent bow saw and an axe. Thanks for all your postings up to now.

 

Can you let us/me know how you get on Sue, as I've been asking myself the same questions. I think I want a smallish chainsaw (I've used one before and the huge noise they make keeps you careful somehow!) as I'm more afraid of planting an axe in my foot (you need a big swing to splice through logs and can't always see down in time).

I also looked at electric saws but they eat a lot of lecky, don't they. So - Please let me know how it goes.

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