Engine overheating

[jeb_lee]

Before setting off on a cruise we checked the water and oil, after a few hours more smoke than usual was coming out and when we checked the water it had dried up so filled it up, another mile on and the warning light came on and again the water was empty, its so hot at the moment that it just evaporates any water that touches it. We've had this sort of thing once before where some rubber piping had cracked and just needed replacing but this time round that seems fine. Before we call out an engineer does anyone have any ideas what it could be or is this a bit of an open ended question?

[Naughty Cal]

Let it cool down for a few hours before refilling it.

 

Getting an engine that hot is not good news though

[bottle]

Check your oil, if it is still only oil and not an oil,water mixture. thank your lucky stars.

 

As Phylis says let it cool for a few hours, tomorrow morning would be good.

 

Refill with water, check all hoses again, give them a good pull especially at the connections.

 

Fit new pressure cap.

 

If all appears OK.

 

Run engine gently to operating temperature, checking all hoses again, they may only leak under pressure.

 

Let engine cool, check coolant level.

 

ps. ensure that you eliminate any air from the system.

[Tony Brooks]

Check your oil, if it is still only oil and not an oil,water mixture. thank your lucky stars.

 

As Phylis says let it cool for a few hours, tomorrow morning would be good.

 

Refill with water, check all hoses again, give them a good pull especially at the connections.

 

Fit new pressure cap.

 

If all appears OK.

 

Run engine gently to operating temperature, checking all hoses again, they may only leak under pressure.

 

Let engine cool, check coolant level.

 

ps. ensure that you eliminate any air from the system.

 

 

Especially from the skin tank!

[jeb_lee]

Our engineer couldn't come out but he said a similar thing, it must have overheated the second time as there was still air in the system. We think it might be the seal on the cap. Does the whole cap need to be replaced or can we just replace the seal?

[RLWP]

Our engineer couldn't come out but he said a similar thing, it must have overheated the second time as there was still air in the system. We think it might be the seal on the cap. Does the whole cap need to be replaced or can we just replace the seal?

 

You replace the whole cap. They're not very expensive usually

 

Richard

[Tony Brooks]

Our engineer couldn't come out but he said a similar thing, it must have overheated the second time as there was still air in the system. We think it might be the seal on the cap. Does the whole cap need to be replaced or can we just replace the seal?

 

If its a "normal" radiator type cap then replace the whole cap BUT the cap is not there to keep the water in, it is there to allow pressure to build up inside the system which in turn raises the boiling point of the coolant to above 100C. If you are getting water leaking from a faulty cap after the coolant has reached running temperature there is every chance that you have another problem.

 

If you do not allow sufficient air space in the header tank to allow for the coolant to expand as it heats up you will find it leaks from the cap. On a tank cooled boat the often stated one inch of air-gap above the coolant is often not enough. The correct level will be whatever it is at after filling to the brim when cold, running the engine up to temperature and then letting it cool down. On some systems you can hardly put your finger into the water when cold.

[GSer]

After you've topped it all up leave the cap off the system until the engine has reached full operating temperature, it will do little if no harm in the short term and will ensure any trapped air is displaced. Stop the engine and re install the cap once any more air is dispelled, run the engine again and check for leaks once the system is pressurised again.

 

Don't be to tempted to run the engine for a long time without the cap in place, the localised boiling that the pressure prevents can cause hard salt/chalk deposits to build-up in the water galleries in the cylinder head especially.

 

Once you are happy all is OK don't forget the antifreeze(not just at winter time as it performs an anticorrosive function all year around)

 

Paul

Edited August 24, 2010 by GSer

[jeb_lee]

Thanks for that, I'm currently trying to contact Beta Marine to send out a spare, engineer told us to phone them but can't find a number anywhere, any ideas? also can't find anything online

[GSer]

Thanks for that, I'm currently trying to contact Beta Marine to send out a spare, engineer told us to phone them but can't find a number anywhere, any ideas? also can't find anything online

 

 

I can't believe the cap is that special most caps are marked with their pressure rating, if you take it to your local friendly motor factors they should be able to match the length, the diameter, and the spring (pressure)

[WotEver]

Thanks for that, I'm currently trying to contact Beta Marine to send out a spare, engineer told us to phone them but can't find a number anywhere, any ideas? also can't find anything online

Beta Marine Limited, Davy Way, Waterwells, Quedgeley, Gloucester GL2 2AD, U.K.

Tel: +44 (0)1452 723492

Fax: +44 (0)1452 883742

email: sales@betamarine.co.uk