plastic plumbing again

[capnthommo]

hi

just about to start the plumbing and frankly i'm a tad confused. i've read quite a few of the other posts and the consensus seems to be hep2o (as far as plastic goes) but a couple of questions suggest themselves.

1. is it noticeably better than, say, speedfix?

2. can anybody relate their experience of the above speedfit

3. screwfix do one with similar specs eg 8bar at 82 degrees, suitable for hot and cold and central heating, high and low pressure systems etc - would this do instead - afair its called speedfix.

going to get the stuff tomorrow so thanks for any further advice you can pass on.

cheers all

nigel

ps if this should be in building and maintenance please feel free to move it.

[Radio-Ga-Ga]

I' never used hep20 I plumbed my boat with speedfit and everything I needed was available, But I guess some posts will say use Hep20.

[RLWP]

I've never really used speedfit, always hep2o. One feature I like with the Hep is if you can't make a joint in a tight place, fit the end onto the pipe with a different fitting, unscrew the end then screw it onto the fitting in the difficult place. Does that make sense?

 

 

Richard

 

You could always learn to solder I suppose

[alan_fincher]

Each has it's advocates, and both Hep2O and Speedfix are used extensively on boats.

 

Hep2O seems to be the one more often sold in "boaty" outlets, but often at high prices.

 

Even from the like of BES, Hep2O comes in quite a bit more expensive than Speedfix, (or did last time I looked), but some have said you can negotiate quantity discounts.

 

The biggest difference with the modern version of each, (in my view!), is that Speedfix can be taken apart just by pushing on part of the fitting, whereas modern Hep2O needs a (very cheap) tool to remove the grab ring. Some see one as better than the other, others the reverse, but if you feel it might come near kids that are going to push on the "uncoupling bit", you might choose to avoid Speedfit, I guess!

 

Personally I'd be equally happy with either, if starting from scratch, but as I was altering and adding to stuff already in Hep2O, I chose to stick with it.

 

I've had no issues at all. Some don't like modern Hep2O because the pipe passes through the grab ring before the O-ring seal, and can in theory be scored where you are trying to make a join. I've never seen it leak, though - ever!

 

My personal advice is to buy pipe for long runs in the 3 metre straight lengths, not in coils, though others don't seem to have a problem with the latter. All the stuff I had that came off a coil is constantly wanting to go banana shape, if you undo clips, and is still a pain to make changes to. That does not happen on the stuff cut from straight lengths, which I vastly prefer, and needs less clips.

[bag 'o' bones]

There are those that will say Hep20 is better than John Guest (speed fit) but seens that Hep20 has effectively copied JG's pipe gripping method in their latest offering I think that says it all!

 

Also speedfit does not have to be dismantled to remove the pipe, you just just twist the locking ring push the collet back and hey presto pipe removed. Unlike a Hep20 fitting which has to be taken to bits.

 

Some say that Hep20 seals better which is complete rubbish. John Guest pipe inserts also sport a secondary sealing ring if required - unlike Hep 20 which is plain metal.

 

John guest fittings are also used to carry pressurised beverages and compressed air - unlike Hep 20 as far as I am aware.

 

The only thing I would say is better on the HEP20 fitting is it is easier to grip the locking collar. Big deal.

 

Can you tell that I am a fan of JG!

 

Edited to say JG can also be 'locked' if required using a collet snap ring.

Edited May 5, 2010 by bag 'o' bones

[DHutch]

Emilyanne uses Hep20, but as far as i know 1991 there wasnt really an competition.

[Radio-Ga-Ga]

I would second Alan's point about coils, except to say long runs from a coil are usualy fine and shorter runs end up bendy, I bought mostly coils but also some 3m lengths, mostly to use where two fittings are needed close to each other. I also used pipe inserts with the additional seal and lock collets that prevent any accidental uncoupling.

[capnthommo]

okay.

thanks for all that. i had just about settled on the straight lengths already, it only makes about a fiver difference to the price anyway as long as i can make the joints work out in the right places so i dont see much advantage to the coil. and as has been said, coils cans sometimes want to bend a bit. interesting point about the connections; nice to know they cant accidentally pop apart when you rummage in the back of a cupboard.

but on the whole not much to choose either way then - each has its own advantages and hang-ups.

and price diffs are marginal really when you take into account the pump, calorifier etc.

one further point though - the pumps seem to demand an inordinate amount of lecccy - over a total run of 30 metres is it at all likely that 33amp thinwall cable would be enough or should i play it even safer and go for silly amperages? just top of the head ball park opinions will do. i've already done the math but the info on pumps (shurflo 11.3lpm 30psi that draws 5Amps max flow and a 7.5 Amp fuse) leaves me wondering if i'm right (yes, i have checked more than once)

thanks for all the help on this one - i'll be back with q's about leccy matters later

cheers

nigel

[Justme]

If its for heating make sure you use the X or barrier type or oxygen gets in & causes problems.

[capnthommo]

If its for heating make sure you use the X or barrier type or oxygen gets in & causes problems.

no, should be ok there. just domestic h and c water. no central heating. and if i install later it will be off a back boiler and in copper.

thanks though, worth remembering

cheers

nigel

[sharpness]

okay.

thanks for all that. i had just about settled on the straight lengths already, it only makes about a fiver difference to the price anyway as long as i can make the joints work out in the right places so i dont see much advantage to the coil. and as has been said, coils cans sometimes want to bend a bit. interesting point about the connections; nice to know they cant accidentally pop apart when you rummage in the back of a cupboard.

but on the whole not much to choose either way then - each has its own advantages and hang-ups.

and price diffs are marginal really when you take into account the pump, calorifier etc.

One thing I dont think has been mentioned is whatever you do don't cut the pipe with a hacksaw, the scraggy bits can damage the O ring & then not seal properly. Use a proper PVC pipe cutter, only a few pounds & much easier anyway or very carefully use a Stanley knife, the pipe cuts quite easily.

 

Steve

[starman]

I plumbed our whole house in Speedfit and found it excellent. Quick, simple, didn't have a single leak. The fittings can be locked onto the pipe with a twist if you're nervous of them coming adrift; also the pipe can in theory be released from the fitting by pushing down on a collar though I found that this often didn't work properly. No real problem though as the fitting end could be easily unscrewed to retrieve the pipe.

I hated the coils which never sat straight unless clipped every couple of feet. The straight lengths are much better. And always use the proper pipe cutter.

[steelaway]

Hi Nigel

 

I ran 22mm coiled pipe from stop tap to the calorifier and back with the hot to maintain a good flow, I then tee'd off where required in 15mm.

I also ran the same for the C/H and ty-wrapped the 4 pipes together to make a 44mm square bundle.

You may have trouble finding a way to connect to the pump - I made some adaptors from 22mm to 1" Griflex

The coil type with stay put if you clip it, I used it to avoid joints.

I also liked the way it sweeps into the calorifier without any sharp bends, also maintaining easy flow.

If you use swivel bends on the calorifier, the tube finds its own happy position.

IMO 33amp cable is more than enough for the pump.

 

Alex

[capnthommo]

just to say thanks again everybody. i go bed now - back tomorrow

cheers folks

nigel

[Radio-Ga-Ga]

If you allready have one of the push over and twist roller cutters for copper pipe, it does a good job on plastic but needs more twisting. I don't know what size 35 amp thinwall is, but I used 8mm standard cable, 57ft boat, batts opposite end to pump,