Wet room not wet t shirt!

[glenkinchie]

hello

 

and back again for a bit of advice.

 

I am wanting to install a wet room using tiles ( not plastic)

 

I thought that if i put size on the ply wood to seal it then fill all the joins with a good flexible silicone sealant, and then attach the tiles using sealant ( idea found in the building and maintenance) that this would do the job...

 

does anyone have any ideas ( at budget prices) that would ensure that the room will be reasonably water tight and function as a wet room.

 

Very grateful for any ideas

 

chris

[sueb]

hello

 

and back again for a bit of advice.

 

I am wanting to install a wet room using tiles ( not plastic)

 

I thought that if i put size on the ply wood to seal it then fill all the joins with a good flexible silicone sealant, and then attach the tiles using sealant ( idea found in the building and maintenance) that this would do the job...

 

does anyone have any ideas ( at budget prices) that would ensure that the room will be reasonably water tight and function as a wet room.

 

Very grateful for any ideas

 

chris

Yes use Neken tiles. They are plastic but look like real tiles; solve condensation problems; are watertight and stay on the wall. Ours have been ok for 19 years

Sue

[cariad]

hello

 

and back again for a bit of advice.

 

I am wanting to install a wet room using tiles ( not plastic)

 

I thought that if i put size on the ply wood to seal it then fill all the joins with a good flexible silicone sealant, and then attach the tiles using sealant ( idea found in the building and maintenance) that this would do the job...

 

does anyone have any ideas ( at budget prices) that would ensure that the room will be reasonably water tight and function as a wet room.

 

Very grateful for any ideas

 

chris

 

hello

 

and back again for a bit of advice.

 

I am wanting to install a wet room using tiles ( not plastic)

 

I thought that if i put size on the ply wood to seal it then fill all the joins with a good flexible silicone sealant, and then attach the tiles using sealant ( idea found in the building and maintenance) that this would do the job...

 

does anyone have any ideas ( at budget prices) that would ensure that the room will be reasonably water tight and function as a wet room.

 

Very grateful for any ideas

 

chris

 

give nichols and clarke a ring tel no 02920 390146 they specialise in the type of installation you are considering. i think they will be able to give you their web site which shows a demo on installation.

[glenkinchie]

Ok thanks for the help.

 

But not quite yet what I wanted. I can see the attraction to plastic tiles but as the wet room will be tiled on the floor as well, plastics won't work.

 

I have already watched the demos and they are very much more complicated than what I deem to be necessary for the boat.

 

Basically the wet room is only a glorified shower, more open and the shower tray replaced by a tiled floor but, there, is the reason for my concern, the floor will get the wettest and will need the best sealing between joins etc, that was where I was hoping someone might give a good and creative idea.

 

Sorry should have been clearer in my first post.

[dor]

The problems will arise if there is any flexing of the panels. I fixed "aquapanels" to my 18mm blockboard bulkheads and lining, then used floor tile cement to fix the tiles. This type of tile cement is designed to be flexible - cf house bathrooms with tiled floors on floorboards - it is grey rather than white and appears to have little rubber flecks in it which gives it the flexibility. You can also get waterproof flexible grout - looks much the same as ordinary grout, but is a bu**er to get off the tiles after it has dried. The aquapanels I used for the verticals came from B&Q - it's a sort of cement-washed dense foam, and the tile cement and grout you should be able to get, along with advice, from any decent tile shop - try the smaller ones that also do installations for better advice.

[alan_fincher]

Basically the wet room is only a glorified shower, more open and the shower tray replaced by a tiled floor but, there, is the reason for my concern, the floor will get the wettest and will need the best sealing between joins etc, that was where I was hoping someone might give a good and creative idea.

Personally, if the floor is supported throughout by the same sub-structure, and you make it strong enough, I don't think the joins between individual tiles of the floor will cause much issue, and there are various grouting options should work as well as in an upstairs of a house, (because there should be no more movement in the boat).

 

I have always seen the danger with the wet-room approach on a narrow-boat to be the join point between the walls and the floor.

 

With the best will in the world, however tough you make your upright panelling, (and DOR's 18mm board, plus Aquapanel, would be the least I would go with), natural use of the boat is likely to mean some movement of "walls" versus "floor" (Even if you never bang it, think about stresses when craning out for hull maintenance).

 

I know people do use the wet room approach successfully, but I think that join will be by a mile your highest risk area.

 

I'm not that confident even using a shower tray, of the join between top of tray, and bottom of "walls", where I think water will generally run down much more freely than in a wet-room, where to some degree it must collect around the sides, during use as a shower.

[WotEver]

I know people do use the wet room approach successfully, but I think that join will be by a mile your highest risk area.

Agreed. My aged father-in-law has just had a wet room conversion done in his bathroom and just like all other wet rooms I have ever seen, the (vinyl) floor is wrapped up cove-like 100mm up the walls for just this reason.

 

For a tiled wall and floor you would need to firstly 'tank' the walls and floor with a suitable material just like Mike Holmes does

 

Tony

[stuart]

Could you create a metal tank floor? Ie. completely seal the bathroom area right down to the base plate? If it did ever leak, only the bathroom would "fill up" ?

[Grace and Favour]

I suggest you fit a rubber / vinyl / GRP base to your floor, and extend it at least 100 mm up each wall, and over & into a 100 mm wide stainless gully (leading to drain/pump) across (all) entrance(s).

 

Fit all walls, floor to ceiling with waterproof laminated boards, (or stainless steel sheet if you wish!) - and overlap the floor edges the full 100 mm. (sealing all such overlaps with silicone or long-life mastic). I personally would not use tiles - the boat may flex too much for ceramics to retain their integrity - there are simply too many joints where problems could occur.

 

Clicky for material suggestions

 

Edited for spelllling

Edited April 22, 2010 by Grace & Favour

[WotEver]

Could you create a metal tank floor? Ie. completely seal the bathroom area right down to the base plate? If it did ever leak, only the bathroom would "fill up" ?

Indeed, the room needs to be completely tanked, but this could be done with numerous products of which I'd have thought metal would be the least easy. If you check out the link in Grace & Favour's post, that company offers several tanking membranes.

 

Tony

 

edited to add an important comma

Edited April 22, 2010 by WotEver

[glenkinchie]

Wow there's a lot of thinking I have to do!

 

Thanks for all these great replies.

 

What if I fibre glassed over the floor running it up the walls by about 6 inches? then tiled?

 

The reason I want a wet room is the head room is very low and if I mount a shower tray, I am going to loose precious height...eeek.

 

It's actually being fitted into a small dutch barge, so the strain when craning in and out may not be quite the same, as the barge is about 2 and a half metres wide. I am supposing that might help spread the strain a bit?

 

I shall check Grace and Favours link, rude of me not too...please accept my humblest.

[dor]

Just another point which you might find useful :

 

The most likely place you will get the grouting cracking is in the corners. Whilst I grouted all the main tile areas, I used good quality white silicone on all the 90 degree joints between panels. Use low-tack (Blue) masking tape to get a clean finish and remove it almost as soon as you have put in the silicone.